Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm planning on using Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff when I get the time to do it.

My gearbox was rebuilt 3 years ago because of a 4th gear sincro problem would grind at anything over 4000rpm. Im having problems again but only if shifting quickly at redline. What oil should I use?

You ask like I'm an expert! :P

I have good advice that shockproof will solve your grinding problems, but there's more realisation these days that while it works great in the short term you may be shortening your box's life by using it.

Not sure if any additives like the nulon G70? will help shift quality. Otherwise just go for shockproof and when the box blows up get a new one :D

it's been a week now since i put in redline lightweight shockproof. It shows only slight improvement on my crunching problem from 1st to 2nd. i am wondering how long does it takes to show the full result. Does anyone knows?

Does R33 gearbox crunch from 1st to 2nd on a cold start normal?

Giveitall ... thats impossible to answer ... its not like an antibiotic! or Rehab... It deppends on the actual damage caused in the first place as to whether any improvment will be made....

I use it in mine and it only made small differences to my driving shifting! ITS just that i know its good protection for my fresh box ! Not a tolerence corrector

Well I'm going to use Redline MT90 (it's a 75W/90) oil without the shockproof particles.

I'll see how it goes.

You know a lot of these shift problems could be due to the clutch not fully disengaging, particularly if you have a heavier pressure plate and haven't tweaked the clutch play.

Something to look into before the oil if you are having shift problems. You need virtually the entire clutch master cylinder length used fully to change gears in an R33 with a heavier pressure plate. And it only takes 10 minutes to adjust. :P

Edited by simpletool
  • 1 year later...

Well im scratching my head now thinking what gearbox oil I should use. GTS4 r32 gearbox. Has some noise coming from it when driving, but I was told when I bought the car, that it had an aftermarket gearset in it as well. So not quite sure whether to use redline or not. Main issue is it crunches on a quick change from 4th to 5th.

  • 3 months later...
Well I'm going to use Redline MT90 (it's a 75W/90) oil without the shockproof particles.

I'll see how it goes.

You know a lot of these shift problems could be due to the clutch not fully disengaging, particularly if you have a heavier pressure plate and haven't tweaked the clutch play.

Something to look into before the oil if you are having shift problems. You need virtually the entire clutch master cylinder length used fully to change gears in an R33 with a heavier pressure plate. And it only takes 10 minutes to adjust. :)

My gear box crunch when im changing from 4th to 5th (in high rev mostly)and 5th to 4th (in high rev mostly,sometimes low revs), wil it be cuz my clutch is worn? or not disengaging properly? how would i check it?

Edit- at the moment im learning double clutching, which resolve the crunching problem, and it make feels good too.

  • 3 weeks later...
My gear box crunch when im changing from 4th to 5th (in high rev mostly)and 5th to 4th (in high rev mostly,sometimes low revs), wil it be cuz my clutch is worn? or not disengaging properly? how would i check it?

Edit- at the moment im learning double clutching, which resolve the crunching problem, and it make feels good too.

By the way, I changed my gear box oil to Redline MT90 two days ago, now the crunching problem seems to be gone :blink: ( Iwas using Penzoil or Penrite with Nulon N70 addictive) Cheers

My 2c,

I use MT90 on the boxes that still work fine, and lightweight shockproof on the ones that dont feel so good. Seems to work ok, Ive had MT90 in my R33 GTS-T box now for over 100 000km's still runs 100% pefect with serious abuse.

My 2c,

I use MT90 on the boxes that still work fine, and lightweight shockproof on the ones that dont feel so good. Seems to work ok, Ive had MT90 in my R33 GTS-T box now for over 100 000km's still runs 100% pefect with serious abuse.

Thats good to hear, only thing that stoped me using Redline ightweight shockproof is most ppl who has used it have 50/50 opinion. maybe ill use it when my gear box is very bad i guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • have you rotated the car yet? if so how smooth was it?
    • And finally, I had the driver's side airbox off while adding a long drain hose under the oil can to down near the oil filter. Doesn't look good, it has definitely had an turbo oil seal leak and looks like it has been for a long time.....guess I'll have to get a pair of highflows to put on the shelf It's also worth mentioning it has a really strange clamp between the bottom of the airflow meter (which has a big barb/lip on it) and the intake pipe. I've used the magic of MSPaint to show, basically you have to clip out those 2 steel springs which unlocks the hose from the AFM. I used 2 flat screwdrivers, the spring sort of clips into the unlocked position. Reassembly you just pop them both back flat once the hose is far enough up the AFM that the spring clamp is above the barb. Weird to use but much more convenient once your'e used to it compared to trying to do up a hose clamp under the airbox like on 32 GTR
    • The other thing I started was a fire extinguisher bracket.  As with a few other cars previously (350z, Leaf), I'm going to add a bracket between the navigator seat's front bolts, then mount the extinguisher on that. Unfortunately Nissan (probably the same engineer who did the A/T fluid interwarmer) decided that the front seat brackets would be recessed and uneven so the bracket shape was a bit tricky; I ended up doing 1 part under each seat mount (the large hole is because there is a flange under the seat mount to allow for the carpet thickness)   and then a horizontal part between those 2 No final pic yet as the paint needs to dry, I'll post up once that's done  
    • OK, a few half jobs on the skyline this weekend because its booked for a test day at Wakefield Park on 27-Feb. While the Ecutek dongle and app provide display and logging of a heap of engine parameters, they annoyingly don't have access to the auto trans temp. So I grabbed an oil temp gauge from Raceworks which apparently has warning colour change and peak hold, about $95  and their 8mm hose sender adapter Now, I foolishly thought these 2 might work together, but no, the sender needs about 30mm clearance in the fitting and the adapter only had about 8mm. I've cobbled something together with an NPT T piece and blank for now but will try and work out something more permanent as I intend to use the same fitting for the data logger in the future. Under the car, Nissan's engineers decided that only one opportunity for coolant and trans fluid to mix (the radiator) was not enough, and they also added an interwarmer near the sump on the passenger side like the engine oil has: I've cut the hose between the auto trans outlet and the interwarmer inlet and inserted the sender there as that gives the best indication of temp inside the transmission.   From there it is back to the pain of running that sender wire to the cabin, I've run it up near the passenger headlight, into the battery box, across the channel at the back and into the master cylinder area where I ran out of wire length (and patience). Remainder of the job is through the grommet near the accelerator pedal that I've used previously, then across under the dash to where I will temporarily mount it on the console for track days (and remove it other times). The gauge will also need IGN, BAT and earth (I'm not going to worry about illumination as I'll unhook it between track days)  
    • This piece is obscenely discontinued. I honestly hate the frameless window design because the rubber gets stressed and the guides as well every time you open and close the door.
×
×
  • Create New...