Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so what should i do, i'v taken the car back numerous times and it's always the same result, all that happens when i take it back is the tuner just keeps lowering the timing, to me it seems like he just can't be bothered

I might as well get the stock ecu put back in, cause thats what it feels like

Edited by Hulk1010
It really depends where it is knocking.

If it's on over run then not a major concern, or if you are bouncing off the limiter then it isn't uncommon as the pfc cuts fuel creating a lean condition

Fuel cuts aren't a lean condition as all the injectors are shut off. Knocking on the rev limiter is usually from crackshaft harmonics due to the massive rotational decelleration. Find out when the knock occurs and we might be able to help you out more.

Edited by rob82

thanks for the replys

I'ts always before the limiter, at random times, I might give it a boot from 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc and end up getting a high reading, could it be the knock sensor?

a week back i gave it a boot from second and then checked the knock level reading and it read 111, the RPM was 5500

thanks for the replys

I'ts always before the limiter, at random times, I might give it a boot from 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc and end up getting a high reading, could it be the knock sensor?

a week back i gave it a boot from second and then checked the knock level reading and it read 111, the RPM was 5500

By that knock level you should actually start to hear it through the fire wall. Is it a temperature based problem ie does it do it at night on the highway or slow cruising around town in the heat of the day?? If you pull 2 deg out globally does it stll do it??

By that knock level you should actually start to hear it through the fire wall. Is it a temperature based problem ie does it do it at night on the highway or slow cruising around town in the heat of the day?? If you pull 2 deg out globally does it stll do it??

OK - I kind of have this problem too – but not as bad

I have an R32 GTR with Weisco forged pistons - and my knock reading creeps up to the high 50s from time to time. I have also seen bursts up into the 70s but only if I'm using bad fuel.

I have had my engine checked by 3 different tuners - all using head phones to listen for knock - and they all confirm that my engine is NOT knocking

Under the settings menu on your PFC you add advance / retard timing and increase the injector duty cycle across the entire rev range – or 'globally'

I tried taking timing out in steps. I stepped up from -2 / -4 / -8 degrees - and it made no difference to the readings.

I then added more fuel 'globally' - still no difference

I then did some tweaking to both at the same time – still got the same readings (shrugs)

So - I figure I either have a dodgy knock sensor - or just a noisy engine :)

or possibly both

The knock reading can be misleading as ive seen many cars with high readings with no det at all.One GTS read a count of 93 no matter what you did, we even backed the CAS off asd far as it could go and retarded timing with the PFC with no change,even changing the knock sensors did nothing.Use the reading as a guide only but its no where near perfect so us other means as a back up if your not sure.

A maximum power tune will give readings in the 50s also,this is why i like to use other tools for det detection on the dyno on hi powered cars.

Does it do it all the the time?

Every now and then I'll get really high readings,spoke to the tuner and he mentioned it could be the fuel pump.

I've just replaced it and its still playing funny buggers, highest knock of 120 when overtaking in fifth gear with less than 3 qtr throttle.

All other times sits on mid to low 30's!

same boat **raises hand.

Mine has hit a max of 84, but after a bit of driving in low and high revs the knocking is down to lower than ~30. Is this a problem at all?. If I am driving with no hard boosting the knocking is lower than 20....

Also have been told to watch for blowing smoke.

White = water

Brownish = fuel

Black = oil

is that right?

I've put about 6,000km on my GTR in the past 4mths driving in conditions from 5c-44c on 0.8-1.4bar and never have I seen my knock level go above 32.

Maybe it is time for you to find a different tuner Hulk.

I have the same problem with my gtstr33. it spikes upwards of 120 with the aircon on, and up around 50-60 with aircon off. It happens at around 4500-5000 rpm.

I have my map locked so i cant take out any timing to do some fault finding. This is quite annoying seeing the engine check light flash rapidly at me. I hate the thought of slowly killing my engine.

I had mine tuned at one of the best tuners in sydney and it was not detonating on the dyno. I even took it back for them to play with and they did take some timing out. I am wondering if its possible for the car to be using different load points under wot on the dyno to wot on the road. In this case that part of the map may not be tuned????

Does any one else notice a rise in knock if the aircon is on???

^ The engine is working harder with the aircon on... so its gonna show up.

Take it back to this "one of the best tuners" and tell them its still happening. Sacrafice a little bit of power for the overall health of your engine...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...