Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wondering what peoples opinion in the best turbo for a 1/4 mile for street mods?

i know people pulling 300rwkw but they have pretty slow times compared to cars that are 250rwkw

most likely due to lag... but i was curious which turbo would be able to spool as quick to achieve the best 400m on the streets. i know bigger turbos mean more power but is it really usable for a quick thrashing on the road? safety... all those issues such as suspension... the works

i know that graphs can show a lot of power but what it doesnt tell is how quick does it achieve this power to be able to use this on road for traction on street?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114538-what-is-the-best-turbo-for-14-mile/
Share on other sites

Its not due to lag at all. Its due to car setup far more than power.

1) Traction is what makes your car fast (tyres/suspension)

2) Driver is what makes you car fast

3) Power is useless without 1&2 being sorted

Without the first 2 things down pat. The 3rd (power) makes little difference, its almost a hinderance in many cases.

I know using 330rwkw on street tyres. Best i could manage was a 12.1 with horrid wheelspin.

But i did run a 12.9 with approx 210rwkw, and using 225 street tyres :D

I had a reasonable 60ft of 2.0 and that got me the time.

The car was:

1) Setup well for the power

2) I could drive it well at that power

Putting down 330rwkw i had not raced it before, and the car certainly wasnt setup suspension/tyre wise to handle the extra power

And i get the impression your talking of street racing. Dont head down that line. That isnt tolerated on SAU.

cheers :)

type of car would be handy, otherwise we can't give you any feedback

also what times r u looking at? 11's, 10's or 9's? soo many variables so we really cant say X type of turbo would be the best for 1/4 mile runs

average power makes a car fast not max power

a car that makes a max of 250rwkw will have a higher average power than 300rwkw car. the 300rwkw will likely to have lots more lag, and it will be bog the dog or wheelspin city. the 250rwkw car will good average power and will be able to launch quite well with minimal lag

type of car would be handy, otherwise we can't give you any feedback

also what times r u looking at? 11's, 10's or 9's? soo many variables so we really cant say X type of turbo would be the best for 1/4 mile runs

the car would be a skyline r33 s2... the last thing i would hate is to spend money on something that wont benefit me as much as the price tag on the turbo

r31nismoid i dont plan to drag on the streets, just wanted to know what turbo would be best suitable to the roads we all drive on everyday without losing traction and using the most power out of a turbo setup without having a huge lag monster

what turbo would be best suitable to the roads we all drive on everyday without losing traction and using the most power out of a turbo setup without having a huge lag monster

apexi powerfc + boost control kit

stock turbo

cold air intake

fmic

3" turbo back exhaust with split dump

some good 255 rear tyres

camber kit

castor kit

pineapple kit

get suspension tuned

but i was curious which turbo would be able to spool as quick to achieve the best 400m on the streets. i know bigger turbos mean more power but is it really usable for a quick thrashing on the road?

Um, the best turbo for 400m on the street is no turbo because you are doing well over the speed limit in any state other than NT.

Big turboes aren't really that undrivable provided you have the traction available. You can chug around off boost in everyday traffic, but you know the power will come when you put the boot in. Also once you come on boost, it won't come off boost too quickly until you slow down again.

Also once you come on boost, it won't come off boost too quickly until you slow down again.

haha err whatever that means.... or is that just me?

this isnt answering your main question, but in terms of traction on the street, 300rwkw will always be difficult. If your car isnt setup well, it will be near impossible. My only experience with cars near that power was my old 180sx that had 280rwkw. That would sometimes wheelspin coming onto boost in 3rd gear, with pretty good tires, and coilovers.. Or you could take off from a standing start in 2nd gear, spinning all the way till around 100km/h ish.

As R31nismoid said, there a lot more things that come into doing quick times (quick is a more of a personal opinion anyway) than just power, or even smooth usable power... Its useless if you cant get it to the ground efficeintly.

- Also what kind of R33 do you have? How will you drive it on the street? And what is your idea of a quick time?

Edited by Cool Hand Luke
haha err whatever that means.... or is that just me?

Okay maybe I didn't word that quite right. What I meant to say is that when you are thrashing around the racetrack *cough*hills*cough* you keep the rpm high, no lower than say 4000rpm at any one stage. So when you get back on it, you will have boost instantly. You don't have to worry about spooling up again. Or is this just an SR thing? Are the RBs different?

apexi powerfc + boost control kit

stock turbo

cold air intake

fmic

3" turbo back exhaust with split dump

some good 255 rear tyres

camber kit

castor kit

pineapple kit

get suspension tuned

spot on!

seen this done on a dvd to a GTR, guy ran high 11's... plus he had race fuel with a tune and more boost.

We are talking GTST not GTR arent we? RB25DET will make high 200 kw at tyres comfortably with stock internals and correct combination of bolt ons on pump fuel, which im sure has been well documented on this forum, as of choice of turbo, It depends on wether you are willing to upgrade other parts e.g exhaust manifold etc. GCG do a BB highflow which is good for around 230kw+ retaining standard manifold & plumbing, but will require ecu, injectors, fuel pump, boost control, to make that power. I personally like the GT 35/40 with ar.82 exhaust housing. I have a customer with this setup running mid 11s at 124mph on pump fuel, and car is very streetable, can drive it to the shops to get milk. but to run these numbers, you really have to be sixty footing around the 1.7sec mark, this is where your tyre and suspension will come into it as said in previous posts. nothing a set of MT 255 50/16 wont fix.

spot on!

seen this done on a dvd to a GTR, guy ran high 11's... plus he had race fuel with a tune and more boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • -9s are discontinued supposedly. But you can still get Nismo R3 turbos which are something like a -7 but subtly different? -7s are also available. HKS GTIII-SS and GTIII-2530 are also available but they're journal bearing MHI turbos.
    • Late to this party but here is your go to shop in perth - https://www.facebook.com/gsautoworksau GTSBOY is on the money cost wise, drive in and out will cost you 15-30k or more.    Some items that will save you money  - plug in link ecu g4x is much cheaper than haltech.   -Pulsar turbo, seem to be "OK" now, never used one myself You really don't have to build the motor, E85, headgasket, studs and a good RB26 will live for ever.    Swapping over the twins won't save much as you still need ecu, tune, fuel system etc.          
    • Welcome back to the scene! Godzilla Motorsports were well regarded back in the day.  My GT-R had work done there prior to my ownership.   SRS (Street Race Solutions) in Toowoomba worth a look.  They've built some pretty wild Skylines. Their YouTube channel is comedic to watch!  I'm sure they're all on the glass BBQ but they get shit done! 🤣
    • Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input?  The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37. There probably aren't too many people around that have made these sorts of changes to a Q50/V37, so you might end up being the first if you do decide to go ahead. ACP is Apple Car Play and AA is Android Auto, they are roughly the same thing for the 2 major phone operating systems (Apple's iOS and Android), it allows you to connect your phone and access a number of your phone applications on your car system.  With Nav apps included, so you could use google maps/Waze or whatever your favourite navigation app is, instead of using the built in navi system.  I think this would be a better solution if it is only Navigation that you are looking as swapping the head unit for. GPS signals are the same around the globe as the GPS satellites continuously circle the globe, but it is the head unit that doesn't allow you to load Australian maps, or at least no-one had made an Australian map that will load up on the JDM head unit. Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs?  I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system.  That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?
    • If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.
×
×
  • Create New...