Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, took my car out today.... put my foot down, as u do ... and anyway I could hear this weird air whooshing sound under boost, I popped the bonnet and found something apart, so I clicked it back together and went for another spin, same noise.

When I checked under the bonnet again the thing had come apart once again.

Ok so I dont know what its called but I took some photos, hopefully someone can help me, hopefully this is the cause cause it looks like i can tape it back together but I dont wanna cause im not 100% sure.

Max

post-27650-1145782991.jpg

post-27650-1145783006.jpg

all it is is the charcoal canister feed from ur throttle body.. just super glue it back together, and it should be ok. its popping apart under boost.

ok well i just superglued it back together after giving it a good clean, going to take it for a spin in 30 mins or so ...

you think this is the cause of the whistling noise tho ?

Ok so i glued it all up and took it for a spin , same noise tho :(

car still goes hard and seems like the boost is a little higher .. or takes less time to get to full boost...

anything else i can try before i take it to the shop?? :)

you can check all your boost lines. maybe one has come off? its happened to my car a few times, but easily fixed with truckie ties (cable ties). IF not that then maybe a loose gasket? i had a 180sx which the exhaust flange gasket popped making it have a whistling noise.

oh the possibilites......

what it sounds like is one of two problems... 1) vacuum lines 2) intake piping

1) what i do to find the whistle is spray each line individually with some hair-spray. so spray one, wait for it to dry (10 seconds), rev up the engine... if it still whistles, check another line/connection. keep doing it until you find which one is giving you grief and then replace the bad one.

best part about hairspray is that it's water soluble, it's cheap, non-corrosive and hardens very fast.

2) I have had less experience with this issue, but the best way to check is to pressurize the whole intake system without the engine running (valves sealed and no other noise)... you can do this by using a valve-stem mounted inside a piece of capped off PVC piping. Just place the capped off piece of PVC piping with the valve stem in place of your air filters (cap off one of them), pressurize the system with a bicycle pump and listen for any leaks. you may have a cracked coupler that's causing air to whistle as it quickly gets vacuumed into your piping.

I recently had something like the whistling noise coming from my engine and it quickly progressed to a heavy whoosh. no boost issues, no sputtering, nothing. turns out one of my intake pipe clamps came loose and with every close of the throttle I wasn't using the BOV but rather a piece of piping was completely coming off and then sealing itself again.

check those two possibilities and see how things turn out :)

Hey really weird ... took a mate to show him the noise ... gave it a little aswell... dropped him home, went inside for 5 mins anyway when i drove off the car sounded ok ?? no more whistling ... so i reved 2nd gear out and it sounds ok now.

This sucks in a way cause i want to know what it was :P ... can anyone suggest anything lol ?? :)

Max

I have a similar problem, running a SR20 over 10psi the turbo almost sounds like it is spoiling harder or with a distinctive whistle. the car still boosts the same but the noise is there, started when i had to drop the clutch comming out of a servo one night

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...