Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can understand the need for an accurate inlet temp sensor. After my upgrade I was horified to see that my inlet temps (showing on the PFC) were consistantly around 25C higher than ambient (50C on a 25C day). What I did notice, however, is that the IC outlet was cold/ambient to touch and that the inlet temperature readings on the PFC hardly varied.

In reality I suspect that what I'm really measuring is the temperature of the plenum wall (nicely heated by the engine radiant heat) rather than the intercooled air passing throuh it.

Where do you place the aftermarket inlet temp probe?

Between the plenumn and the pipe that feeds from the inner guard. I set it up so the tip is in the centre of the pipe and does not come into contact with the pipe wall or plenumn wall. Ive always had the thought that the std probe is affected by heat soak.

  • Replies 179
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
OK people.....its time to guess what power its going to make....

only changes are HKS 2530's > HKS GT-RS and a HKS ignition amplifier.

it made 443 AWKW previous on this same dyno.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say.... it will be MORE than 443AWKW! :thumbsup:

..actually I'll be very interested to hear how much difference there is in lag Paul. I know this won't be too much of an issue for you since you're primarily drag racing.

I am having a RB26/30 built and have been told the 2530's might be a bit small, and to go for the GT-RS. In fact, they say that the 2530's would "limit me" to about 600hp. But with 443awkw, it sounds like you are proving the 2530's can go more. A lot more.. wouldn't that be around 700 flywheel hp or more?

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say.... it will be MORE than 443AWKW! :rofl:

..actually I'll be very interested to hear how much difference there is in lag Paul. I know this won't be too much of an issue for you since you're primarily drag racing.

I am having a RB26/30 built and have been told the 2530's might be a bit small, and to go for the GT-RS. In fact, they say that the 2530's would "limit me" to about 600hp. But with 443awkw, it sounds like you are proving the 2530's can go more. A lot more.. wouldn't that be around 700 flywheel hp or more?

Hmm my guess is 485 awkw :unsure:

so how's it going??? :rofl: hopefully ~500kw+

the JD's going down nicely thanks :P

unfortunately no news yet.......(no news is always good news with CRD). It's hard to be so far away. I wish I was there. I hope nothing goes wrong. I feel like I'm waiting for a baby to be born. :D

STACE

I think ONE of the users logged on right now might win the guessing comp!

Was that me? If so :D

After the 443 4wkw with 2530s' I am not so sure I can guess it.

The race brew makes the numbers somewhat unpredictable.

The raw maths say 550 4wkw.

So I will throw that in as my best guess.

Good luck guys, we have a Friday drinks rule

One JD for every 100 horsepower

So you better get started.

:P cheers :rofl:

PS; the boys get all excited when we stick a blown 7 litre on the dyno, it means plenty of beers for them

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
    • To clarify what I posted above, I thought you both had a situation where it cancelled sooner one way than the other.....if it is reasonably even where it cancels in either direction that is probably normal (consider gentle movements like lane changes, you don't want it to need half a turn of lock to turn the indicators off)
×
×
  • Create New...