Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas Light


Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I'm a proud new owner of a 96' r33 gts-t. Just got it a few days ago and its been driving great! One thing though, I've been experiencing times where the HICAS light would come on after driving for some time.

Tried to do a search to gain more information in the forums but somehow no one has explained if it was a big issue to have that light or not. Could anyone help me with this? Should I get it repaired? If so, how much would it cost? Thanks.

Edited by blu3chip
Link to comment
Share on other sites

could be a number of things wrong with it...have you checked your power steering fluid? have you got a smaller steering wheel?

No, I haven't done anything to my car. It only seems to happen after I drive at high speeds or for some time.

Edited by blu3chip
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had exactly the same problem.

I bought a S2 R33 GTST about 3 weeks ago with 57k on the clock. Everything is perfect except that the HICAS warning light comes on after driving for a period of time. I logged the time from starting the car and kms until the HICAS light comes on and found that it was dependant on distance travelled only, with the light consistently coming on after exactly 10 kms whether driving on freeway or twisty roads below and above 80km/hr. Time travelled varied in each case and had no effect on whether the light would come on or not.

To clarify, when the HICAS light is on, it means that the system is disabled and 'normal' steering (front wheels only) is in operation. I have also attempted to run the diagnostic procedure in the skyline book from this website but have not even been able to get it into diagnostic mode (ie car operates as normal, no flashing error codes from HICAS light). I have also taken the car back to the dealer twice and they cannot find any problems, also having the HICAS control module replaced has not fixed the problem.

If anyone can shed any light on specifically getting the Diagnostic mode to work that would be good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do the search. We don't like regurgitating this every 3 months.

I have used the search heaps, sometimes you can get some good results and sometimes not. I did find one possible solution regarding aligning the steering wheel and checking the steering angle sensor which I will try. I thought I would still post anyway seeing as though most of the time the problem isn't clearly defined (ie what causes light to come on, under what conditions and is it consistent), also the answer nearly always is to just get rid of 4ws, but I would prefer to keep it working as I don't race or drift.

Edited by R.C
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well there is very detailed information you both have offered here so we have to play the guessing game again!! There are just a few hints that you could offer like:

aftermarket steering wheel or not (as HICAS uses a special boss to turn the steering position sensor)

is the steering wheel aligned centrally when you drive

is there the same number of turns from centre to lock on each side

HICAS also warns of low PS fluid in R33

Just anything odd or non standard to do with steering.

If all else fails either:

a) leave it and hope it doesn't make the rear act up, or

b) lock it, but don't ask. I have none left until later in the year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info.

In my case all steering components are standard. Have checked the P.S fluid and all electrical connectors and steering is straight when on flat level road. Also my car has a 3 year 3rd party warranty and 3 month dealership warranty so I am not paying for anything hence why I am trying to get it fixed. The only problem is I don't have that much confidence in the mechanic who is looking at it (having taken it back twiced to no avail) so I am trying to help find the cause myself.

Appreciate your input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info.

In my case all steering components are standard. Have checked the P.S fluid and all electrical connectors and steering is straight when on flat level road. Also my car has a 3 year 3rd party warranty and 3 month dealership warranty so I am not paying for anything hence why I am trying to get it fixed. The only problem is I don't have that much confidence in the mechanic who is looking at it (having taken it back twiced to no avail) so I am trying to help find the cause myself.

Appreciate your input.

R.C, we seem to be having the exact same problem. My HICAS light comes on after 10-15km's of driving continuously though I've not done/changed anything to try to fix it. My problem however, should be able to be fixed with a change of the PS fluid as mine is filthy now. Do let me know if you've managed to verify the problem though as it seems like we're on the same path. Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R.C, we seem to be having the exact same problem. My HICAS light comes on after 10-15km's of driving continuously though I've not done/changed anything to try to fix it. My problem however, should be able to be fixed with a change of the PS fluid as mine is filthy now. Do let me know if you've managed to verify the problem though as it seems like we're on the same path. Cheers.

Seems like this is a very common problem for a lot of people!

I did take the car back to the dealer on the weekend and got the mechanic to look at it while I was there. We took the steering wheel apart and looked at the s.w angle sensor and found a couple of faults. The soldering on the circuit board of the sensor had a few dry joints as well as a broken track. These were fixed and put back together only to find the HICAS light still coming on when I drove home. I'm not totally convinced that that wasn't the problem still only because the sensor itself wasn't replaced, something else may have been wrong with it. I still could not get it into diagnostic mode (either could the mechanic) so maybe the sensor is not working at all - ie it does not detect me turning the wheel when trying to enter diagnostic mode?

It's really starting to annoy me now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My friends car is having the same problem.

Its an series 1 R33 and when the hicas light comes on, the steering becomes really heavy, as if the power steering is gone.

The car has recently been in an accident where the rear suspension was damaged as it slid out into a gutter. It has all been fixed, replaced though. Could this just be fluid or something with the Hicas system itself.

No mechanic has so far been able to figure out whats goin on.

Anyone recomend a Mechanic good with skylines in the sydney area?

cheers

Edited by aym23q
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the HICAS light come on when driving the car home along the freeway after about 5 or 10 minutes, and it didn't go off until after I got home and switched off, even after getting off the freeway and into stop-start traffic.

I topped up the power steering fluid which was below the low mark, but the steering was never heavy before or after. I haven't had the problem since, but also I've never travelled as far at highway speeds yet. Also my steering wheel is off-centre but I would think if that's an issue the light would still come on regardless.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my 32 had the exact same problem. all i did is top up the power steering fluid and now its fine.

my 32 has the exact same problem.. ill try topping up the power steering fluid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update - 1 HICAS problem solved.

After taking my car back to the dealer for the 4th time it looks like I finally have the HICAS problem licked. My initial thought was that it was the steering angle sensor which turned out to be correct. The first clue was that it would not go into diagnostic mode ever, which made me think that it wasn't sensing that the steering beeing moved at all. Anyway, I took it back and told them to replace the sensor (which they attempted to 'fix' last time).

After replacing the sensor and then attempting to enter HICAS diagnostic mode it finally worked, HICAS light flashing signifying no fault, rear wheels entered test sequence turning left and right. The car has been driven on a few trips of more than 10 k's since then with no problem showing up, so it looks like this has fixed it.

LESSON: If your HICAS is playing up (light coming on in dash) and you cannot enter diagnostic mode, one possible cause is faulty steering angle sensor. The light will come on after 10km if it does not sense that the steering wheel has turned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ultimately, if the tip is not far into the runner and the o-ring seals, then you are in business. Have you applied pressure to it as is? It is not really a problem for the injector to twist once it is bolted down, the oring seals it and you don't want it jambed into the oring too hard The plenum is intended to take multiple size lower injectors with different adapters, but the way you have it is fine if they seal.
    • Are these the Dmax ones you are in reference too? https://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35#description Not a bad idea to get the uni flange ones. I have sent just jap an email too. Will see what they say lmao. Only thing is the Dmax ones are on a big back order. Low key anything will be better then my OEM ones I got as they are sounding like popcorn when I go under load lmao 😂☠️🪦.
    • They should do. I have S14 (or something S chassis, anyway) driveshafts in my R32 (because my diff flanges have 3x2). They're the right length. When you go looking for R32/3/4 driveshafts (for turbos), they're all the same thing, so are the same length. So there really shouldn't be any reason why those cheapies from JJ won't also fit an R34. R32/3 NA should also be the same thing. The (3x the price) D-Max ones are uni-fit. They have 5x1 and 3x2 bolt holes and say they cover all the cars. So that would also suggest that they are all the same except for the flanges. And in that case, the flange goes both ways. I'd be buying the D-Max ones if I ever have to replace a shaft. Because that will open up diff options without needing to juggle shafts also. Juggling shafts is gay.
    • Yeah with the adaptors they do look like the photo above - just the fitment within the plenum itself and then further with the rail to the intake is questionable - we shall see tomorrow hopefully once I get some replies from Aeroflow, maybe those bosses are the missing piece....
    • Should be fine, if you have it sitting too far in, you end up just spraying the walls and have shit idle. You "can" run them like that, however I don't think it's a great idea (also depends on your plenum, might be good to just get the injector bosses first, mock it up and see if you need to get the bottom extension) Ideally your injectors, with the extension should look like this  (Not my photos, just Google)
×
×
  • Create New...