Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is an equal length engine pipe for an RB26DETT with a decent length of separation of the split dumps.

nengun-product-207.jpg

:) cheers :O

Are thereany difference between a normal aftermarket front pipe and a front pipe for competition use only?

Are thereany difference between a normal aftermarket front pipe and a front pipe for competition use only?

Finally i sourced out a dump pope for the 260rs. Its from a R32gtr. thanks again for the help that you guys have given me. So i've got HKS dumps and front pipe. I have not sourced out a cat back yet. dont know which brand.

Also anybody know about 260rs BOV? can i use the r32gtrs BOV?

Finally i sourced out a dump pope for the 260rs. Its from a R32gtr. thanks again for the help that you guys have given me. So i've got HKS dumps and front pipe. I have not sourced out a cat back yet. dont know which brand.

Also anybody know about 260rs BOV? can i use the r32gtrs BOV?

The standard 260RS BOV's are perfect, LEAVE THEM ALONE.

Bad choice on the HKS split dumps, they are too short for decent separation.

That's why I put up the pictures of dumps with decent length of separation.

That's why you have to buy dump pipes (long) and engine pipes (short) at the same time.

Try and aim for R33GTR parts, many R32GTR parts won't fit.

:bunny: cheers :O

The standard 260RS BOV's are perfect, LEAVE THEM ALONE.

Bad choice on the HKS split dumps, they are too short for decent separation.

That's why I put up the pictures of dumps with decent length of separation.

That's why you have to buy dump pipes (long) and engine pipes (short) at the same time.

Try and aim for R33GTR parts, many R32GTR parts won't fit.

:) cheers :)

ok sydney im getting more confuse now. When you say its too short (the dump pipe) do you mean as a whole or just the split? They are almost equal lenght you know. The dump pipes im looking at are for R32, 33,44s. That what it says. unless they have it wrong. I've talked to Steve in gold coast the guy who owns the wreckers yard and he said r32 or 33s dump pipes wise are the same. Which is which now? :(

If the HKS dump pie is too short than which brand were you referring too? The only reason i chose the HKS dum pipe is beacause my front pipe is a HKS as well. so...

Can you elaborate more which is the engine pipe? And how about this dump pipe? i would have guessed it too short huh...

post-27949-1146482885.jpg

Edited by stasis
ok sydney im getting more confuse now. When you say its too short (the dump pipe) do you mean as a whole or just the split? They are almost equal lenght you know. The dump pipes im looking at are for R32, 33,44s. That what it says. unless they have it wrong. I've talked to Steve in gold coast the guy who owns the wreckers yard and he said r32 or 33s dump pipes wise are the same. Which is which now? :)

If the HKS dump pie is too short than which brand were you referring too? The only reason i chose the HKS dum pipe is beacause my front pipe is a HKS as well. so...

Can you elaborate more which is the engine pipe? And how about this dump pipe? i would have guessed it too short huh...

Lets get the terminology aligned first

turbo ---->dump

.........................-----> engine pipe-------> cat --------->cat back exhaust

turbo----->dump

Now onto your questions, firstly the separation is too short. The purpose of a split dump is to separate the turbulance caused by the opening of the wastegate from the spiralling output of the turbine. By separating them you get faster boost build, quicker throtte response and higher average power over the used RPM range. The HKS split dumps don't separate the wastegate exhaust and the turbine exhaust for long enough, the pipes are too short, they join too quickly, the separation isn't long enough.

The reason HKS make them that short is because that is the length of the standard dump. HKS assume that you want to use a standard length engine pipe, so they have to make the dump the standard length. Even if it is too short for maximum effect. The Japanese bolt on philosophy says "make a replacement part fit exactly as the standard part". Mechanics in Japan charge like brain surgeons, so fitting labour has to be minimalised.

The better split dumps (longer separation) come with their own engine pipe in a kit. They have to as the longer dump means you can't use a standard length engine pipe. As you can see in the picture (previous post) of the Apexi long split dumps and engine pipe kit.

Hope that answers your question

:thumbsup: cheers :D

Lets get the terminology aligned first

turbo ---->dump

.........................-----> engine pipe-------> cat --------->cat back exhaust

turbo----->dump

Now onto your questions, firstly the separation is too short. The purpose of a split dump is to separate the turbulance caused by the opening of the wastegate from the spiralling output of the turbine. By separating them you get faster boost build, quicker throtte response and higher average power over the used RPM range. The HKS split dumps don't separate the wastegate exhaust and the turbine exhaust for long enough, the pipes are too short, they join too quickly, the separation isn't long enough.

The reason HKS make them that short is because that is the length of the standard dump. HKS assume that you want to use a standard length engine pipe, so they have to make the dump the standard length. Even if it is too short for maximum effect. The Japanese bolt on philosophy says "make a replacement part fit exactly as the standard part". Mechanics in Japan charge like brain surgeons, so fitting labour has to be minimalised.

The better split dumps (longer separation) come with their own engine pipe in a kit. They have to as the longer dump means you can't use a standard length engine pipe. As you can see in the picture (previous post) of the Apexi long split dumps and engine pipe kit.

Hope that answers your question

:ermm: cheers :D

ok the layer of fog have lifted up. If thats the case Apex does make a front and dump pipe in one? Is this coerrect? I probbably should start learning jap language cos the web pages that im browsing now its all in Jap!!!.

As i recall i think Just jap have a unit thats 2 in one dump and front pipe 2 in 1. Is it recommended?

HKS make direct replacment dump pipes, using stock standard front pipes is possible, or any direct replacement front pipe thats aftermarket.

To have the best performance, the dump pipes need to be longer, therefore the front pipe has to be smaller to fit in the same distance under the car.

You need to buy a full dump/front pipe kit from Apexi if you want the longer split dump pipes.

HKS make direct replacment dump pipes, using stock standard front pipes is possible, or any direct replacement front pipe thats aftermarket.

To have the best performance, the dump pipes need to be longer, therefore the front pipe has to be smaller to fit in the same distance under the car.

You need to buy a full dump/front pipe kit from Apexi if you want the longer split dump pipes.

Do you have a poc of the apex stuff by any chance?

Are Apex the only Jap Tuner brand to do dump/front pipes with longer then standard splits? I am looking to buy a HKS cat back exhaust and being a fan of HKS my first instinct is to get HKS dump/front pipes also...

I want maximum performance increases from my exhaust so I want to get it right... From what I have seen Trust also makes some good dump/front pipes, anyone able to comment on that?

Anyone care to comment on what exhausts give the most performance increases, bearing in mind I am a HKS fan and muffler wise I prefer the angled "drift" style cannon muffler....

Cheers

Brett

Are Apex the only Jap Tuner brand to do dump/front pipes with longer then standard splits? I am looking to buy a HKS cat back exhaust and being a fan of HKS my first instinct is to get HKS dump/front pipes also...

I want maximum performance increases from my exhaust so I want to get it right... From what I have seen Trust also makes some good dump/front pipes, anyone able to comment on that?

Anyone care to comment on what exhausts give the most performance increases, bearing in mind I am a HKS fan and muffler wise I prefer the angled "drift" style cannon muffler....

Cheers

Brett

get a hyper ev mag on stageas from japan. its the bible. anybody seconfs that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • $53.35 and a double din Pioneer head unit that I have...
    • Put a camera facing your dashboard so you can film the gauges. Head out to a straight but of road, and filming it as you go from a stand still at wide open throttle to as fast as you can/feel comfortable doing. Then film the dash board as you for example accelerate like normal onto a freeway. This will give us an indicator from Speedo of your expectation of slow, and will give us the rpm reading too to see if it's shifting. (Auto still has tacho from memory)
    • Buy yourself the cooling system pressure tester. Being able to pump it up, and have a gauge on it, AND have a cold engine makes it much easier / practical to diagnose. Additionally as the engine isn't running, you can listen for pin hole leaks as well as watching if pressure drops away. In addition, you can pressurise and while doing so, watch all the little rubber hoses. Some fail very brittle, and will just leak, while others can end up very soft and bulge. While a bulging hose isn't necessarily leaking, one of those small ones starting to stretch / expand in a bad way is an indicator that you'll be looking to replace that one soon   Depending on if this is a project car, or you'll be dailying it in the summer months would alter how I'd be most comfortable with driving the car and how I'd replace. If you're planning to use it as a daily, with no backup, I'd pull the engine, and replace all the external oil/water lines in one big swoop. At the same time do the timing belt, water pump, tensioners etc. Do not open the engine at all. We just want to replace all the things that are inexpensive as a single item, but a PITA when they go. By doing the above, you've made the car from a bunch of age related issues more reliable. If it's a project, and you like swearing while trying to reach into dirty hard to reach places to replace a single hose that may or may not be the leaky one. Just replace the leaking/bad ones as they need it. If it's a project and you'd rather swear at the car once and enjoy it as much as possible, then refer to the process I mentioned in how I'd want to do it if it were a daily. However, the approaches above do come down to how much spare pocket change you have. Pulling the engine and dropping over a thousand dollars on parts, may not be practical for you. Oh, if engine outing, I'd replace as many silicon/rubber inlet joiners as possible too.
    • Yeah, they're pretty dumb though...ie; they'll throw a solenoid error if the solenoid is dead, shorted, wiring is open circuit, or even if the driver transistor has failed (they can't self-diagnose much, they can only test inputs/outputs)... but if you wanted to try, I believe it's this protocol....(uses a long pulse indicator with short pulse counter)...    
    • Yeah I'll do what I can without taking off any major parts for now. If it becomes clear I won't get far with the engine in the car I'll have to think about the next steps. I am not too stuck on keeping everything 100% OEM, if there is better solutions, like converting most lines to braided with AN adapters, I'd rather do that than buy overpriced new "shit" parts.
×
×
  • Create New...