Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is an equal length engine pipe for an RB26DETT with a decent length of separation of the split dumps.

nengun-product-207.jpg

:) cheers :O

Are thereany difference between a normal aftermarket front pipe and a front pipe for competition use only?

Are thereany difference between a normal aftermarket front pipe and a front pipe for competition use only?

Finally i sourced out a dump pope for the 260rs. Its from a R32gtr. thanks again for the help that you guys have given me. So i've got HKS dumps and front pipe. I have not sourced out a cat back yet. dont know which brand.

Also anybody know about 260rs BOV? can i use the r32gtrs BOV?

Finally i sourced out a dump pope for the 260rs. Its from a R32gtr. thanks again for the help that you guys have given me. So i've got HKS dumps and front pipe. I have not sourced out a cat back yet. dont know which brand.

Also anybody know about 260rs BOV? can i use the r32gtrs BOV?

The standard 260RS BOV's are perfect, LEAVE THEM ALONE.

Bad choice on the HKS split dumps, they are too short for decent separation.

That's why I put up the pictures of dumps with decent length of separation.

That's why you have to buy dump pipes (long) and engine pipes (short) at the same time.

Try and aim for R33GTR parts, many R32GTR parts won't fit.

:bunny: cheers :O

The standard 260RS BOV's are perfect, LEAVE THEM ALONE.

Bad choice on the HKS split dumps, they are too short for decent separation.

That's why I put up the pictures of dumps with decent length of separation.

That's why you have to buy dump pipes (long) and engine pipes (short) at the same time.

Try and aim for R33GTR parts, many R32GTR parts won't fit.

:) cheers :)

ok sydney im getting more confuse now. When you say its too short (the dump pipe) do you mean as a whole or just the split? They are almost equal lenght you know. The dump pipes im looking at are for R32, 33,44s. That what it says. unless they have it wrong. I've talked to Steve in gold coast the guy who owns the wreckers yard and he said r32 or 33s dump pipes wise are the same. Which is which now? :(

If the HKS dump pie is too short than which brand were you referring too? The only reason i chose the HKS dum pipe is beacause my front pipe is a HKS as well. so...

Can you elaborate more which is the engine pipe? And how about this dump pipe? i would have guessed it too short huh...

post-27949-1146482885.jpg

Edited by stasis
ok sydney im getting more confuse now. When you say its too short (the dump pipe) do you mean as a whole or just the split? They are almost equal lenght you know. The dump pipes im looking at are for R32, 33,44s. That what it says. unless they have it wrong. I've talked to Steve in gold coast the guy who owns the wreckers yard and he said r32 or 33s dump pipes wise are the same. Which is which now? :)

If the HKS dump pie is too short than which brand were you referring too? The only reason i chose the HKS dum pipe is beacause my front pipe is a HKS as well. so...

Can you elaborate more which is the engine pipe? And how about this dump pipe? i would have guessed it too short huh...

Lets get the terminology aligned first

turbo ---->dump

.........................-----> engine pipe-------> cat --------->cat back exhaust

turbo----->dump

Now onto your questions, firstly the separation is too short. The purpose of a split dump is to separate the turbulance caused by the opening of the wastegate from the spiralling output of the turbine. By separating them you get faster boost build, quicker throtte response and higher average power over the used RPM range. The HKS split dumps don't separate the wastegate exhaust and the turbine exhaust for long enough, the pipes are too short, they join too quickly, the separation isn't long enough.

The reason HKS make them that short is because that is the length of the standard dump. HKS assume that you want to use a standard length engine pipe, so they have to make the dump the standard length. Even if it is too short for maximum effect. The Japanese bolt on philosophy says "make a replacement part fit exactly as the standard part". Mechanics in Japan charge like brain surgeons, so fitting labour has to be minimalised.

The better split dumps (longer separation) come with their own engine pipe in a kit. They have to as the longer dump means you can't use a standard length engine pipe. As you can see in the picture (previous post) of the Apexi long split dumps and engine pipe kit.

Hope that answers your question

:thumbsup: cheers :D

Lets get the terminology aligned first

turbo ---->dump

.........................-----> engine pipe-------> cat --------->cat back exhaust

turbo----->dump

Now onto your questions, firstly the separation is too short. The purpose of a split dump is to separate the turbulance caused by the opening of the wastegate from the spiralling output of the turbine. By separating them you get faster boost build, quicker throtte response and higher average power over the used RPM range. The HKS split dumps don't separate the wastegate exhaust and the turbine exhaust for long enough, the pipes are too short, they join too quickly, the separation isn't long enough.

The reason HKS make them that short is because that is the length of the standard dump. HKS assume that you want to use a standard length engine pipe, so they have to make the dump the standard length. Even if it is too short for maximum effect. The Japanese bolt on philosophy says "make a replacement part fit exactly as the standard part". Mechanics in Japan charge like brain surgeons, so fitting labour has to be minimalised.

The better split dumps (longer separation) come with their own engine pipe in a kit. They have to as the longer dump means you can't use a standard length engine pipe. As you can see in the picture (previous post) of the Apexi long split dumps and engine pipe kit.

Hope that answers your question

:ermm: cheers :D

ok the layer of fog have lifted up. If thats the case Apex does make a front and dump pipe in one? Is this coerrect? I probbably should start learning jap language cos the web pages that im browsing now its all in Jap!!!.

As i recall i think Just jap have a unit thats 2 in one dump and front pipe 2 in 1. Is it recommended?

HKS make direct replacment dump pipes, using stock standard front pipes is possible, or any direct replacement front pipe thats aftermarket.

To have the best performance, the dump pipes need to be longer, therefore the front pipe has to be smaller to fit in the same distance under the car.

You need to buy a full dump/front pipe kit from Apexi if you want the longer split dump pipes.

HKS make direct replacment dump pipes, using stock standard front pipes is possible, or any direct replacement front pipe thats aftermarket.

To have the best performance, the dump pipes need to be longer, therefore the front pipe has to be smaller to fit in the same distance under the car.

You need to buy a full dump/front pipe kit from Apexi if you want the longer split dump pipes.

Do you have a poc of the apex stuff by any chance?

Are Apex the only Jap Tuner brand to do dump/front pipes with longer then standard splits? I am looking to buy a HKS cat back exhaust and being a fan of HKS my first instinct is to get HKS dump/front pipes also...

I want maximum performance increases from my exhaust so I want to get it right... From what I have seen Trust also makes some good dump/front pipes, anyone able to comment on that?

Anyone care to comment on what exhausts give the most performance increases, bearing in mind I am a HKS fan and muffler wise I prefer the angled "drift" style cannon muffler....

Cheers

Brett

Are Apex the only Jap Tuner brand to do dump/front pipes with longer then standard splits? I am looking to buy a HKS cat back exhaust and being a fan of HKS my first instinct is to get HKS dump/front pipes also...

I want maximum performance increases from my exhaust so I want to get it right... From what I have seen Trust also makes some good dump/front pipes, anyone able to comment on that?

Anyone care to comment on what exhausts give the most performance increases, bearing in mind I am a HKS fan and muffler wise I prefer the angled "drift" style cannon muffler....

Cheers

Brett

get a hyper ev mag on stageas from japan. its the bible. anybody seconfs that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...