Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Going by that picture its Viscous LSD which cannot be shimmed.

Carlos

iv asked a couple of diff palces and they've said 33's cant be locked up like the s13s by shimming..

is there a cheap way of locking up 33diffs or is the only option replacing it?

The viscous CAN be shimmed, its not really the best option but does work long enough for you to get some $$ together for a 'real' diff. :(

Essentially the only difference between the S13 and R32/R33 diff is the ratio, back plate and half shafts (different bolt up). The housing and diff center are the same.

thanks for the replys,

looking at the pic, what shim is it i would need to get, part 38453 x2 or part 38454 which there is only 1 of. nissan quoted me 35 bucks each for part 38453 and they come in different thicknesses.

thanks

again

The S15 helical is good for handling and getting power to the ground HOWEVER they are a little weak and break up around 200rwkw.

Yeah a knew that already :D i have a good friend who has an s15 and i love the way his diff works. I have seen one for sale cheap recently, and my original question was can i fit it on my r33 gts-t???? if i can for cheap it would be a good handling upgrade.

Yeah a knew that already :( i have a good friend who has an s15 and i love the way his diff works. I have seen one for sale cheap recently, and my original question was can i fit it on my r33 gts-t???? if i can for cheap it would be a good handling upgrade.

I have been reliably informed that it will fit the housing but the splines on the out put shafts are different to all the other vlsd diffs so you have to use the s15 ones. I have seen it done in a couple of s13's.

What that means for skyline owners is that you will also need to swap driveshafts. In an r32 not so much of an issue as s13 6 bolts shafts will fit.

The extra cost of the shafts and the reduced drive shaft diameter may be an issue. Thats what's put me off that idea.

ok I dont know if the dif is the same as the R32 but I would asume the shim used would be pritty close this is what im going to use for mine and heaps of ppl use for drift, "and yes its off a 300zx" in case the nissan guys ask lol

part number: 38424-40F68

description: WASHER-THRUST, SIDE G

unit price: $15.78

That is so tempting to get just a little more life out of my diff.

7yphon, as your in the circle, how would this shim help an almost completely stuffed vlsd diff?

As a rough description of its condition it will spin one wheel through first and some times twin up second in a straight line without any nasty clutch dumps/gear slaps. All though clutch dumps/gear slaps do tend to have it twin up more often than throttle roll ons.

Hot 35+degree weather after driving on it for a while has the diff locking up almost perfectly.

ok I dont know if the dif is the same as the R32 but I would asume the shim used would be pritty close this is what im going to use for mine and heaps of ppl use for drift, "and yes its off a 300zx" in case the nissan guys ask lol

part number: 38424-40F68

description: WASHER-THRUST, SIDE G

unit price: $15.78

thank mate :D

From what I heard the cluch pack or whatever gets a little sloppy the older is gets. The shim is surpose to go onto the old shim to put it near stock or even further. I am not really too sure about stuffed ones but what you said sound like you might have another issue, BTW Woolls this is only a temp thing because they need to be replaced I would suggest shimming it and then saving up some dosh for a decent 2 way

The R32 and R33 GTST's run a Viscous LSD.. They don't run clutch packs.

Viscous works on the principle of one wheel spinning heats up the viscous fluid that expands and locks the two wheels together. As they age they begin to open wheel. Why shimming works on these diff's i'm am not completely sure, but it does. To some extent.

Have a read of the LSD wiki to so you understand a little more about diffs. :)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential

From what I heard the cluch pack or whatever gets a little sloppy the older is gets. The shim is surpose to go onto the old shim to put it near stock or even further. I am not really too sure about stuffed ones but what you said sound like you might have another issue, BTW Woolls this is only a temp thing because they need to be replaced I would suggest shimming it and then saving up some dosh for a decent 2 way

thanks again,

not going to muck about with shimming the diff now, i ordered a new kaaz 1.5. should be here this friday :)

Edited by woolls
  • 5 weeks later...
thanks again,

not going to muck about with shimming the diff now, i ordered a new kaaz 1.5. should be here this friday :dry:

Hmm.

How much did that cost you and where did you order it from?

I was thinking of shimming mine (r32) but after reading this thread im not overly sure its the right thing to do.

Hmm.

How much did that cost you and where did you order it from?

I was thinking of shimming mine (r32) but after reading this thread im not overly sure its the right thing to do.

about $1200 delivered. send RMS an email for a price. here is a link

http://www.rmsmotorparts.net/HomeFrameset.htm

cheers

Leigh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...