Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well as you can see by the nick, there's something wrong with my car, hrmm can eny1 help? there seems to b no power, n i havta rev it up so much to get it moving, is it my turbo or problem with cylinder 5 or 6

, well thats what my friends suggested anyway, i'm newb at this ......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114879-have-to-rev-like-a-fk-to-move/
Share on other sites

well as you can see by the nick, there's something wrong with my car, hrmm can eny1 help? there seems to b no power, n i havta rev it up so much to get it moving, is it my turbo or problem with cylinder 5 or 6

, well thats what my friends suggested anyway, i'm newb at this ......

is it auto or manual

I just got a exedy brass button clutch and a heavy duty presure plate. Works awesome can withstand 500hp atw or something like that possibly more.

I bought mine for $550 through a mate that works at repco. Im sure ive seen group buys for them on this forum which are cheaper?

Give it a crack yourself, talk to a few mechanics. Its not that dificult. My mates and I have done a few, and none of us are qualified mechanics.

The $300 labour also is incorporating the flywheel being machined aswell, generally. That costs about $50-$80.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Means something is not set up right, tune/calibration related.  
    • Finally replaced the previous temporary mesh indicator surrounds (temporary was the last 10+ years 😂) with a 3D printed GTR style version for the front indicators. I think it looks a lot nicer than the old setup and at least the indicators now point in the correct direction rather than angled off. Needed a little bit of tweaking to deal with the intercooler piping but got there in the end. Old and new photos below. 
    • It's weird to me that you say this because I'm pretty sure locals with relatively standard standalone tunes (boost/barometric compensated alpha-N) still have driveability issues when they pop intercooler hoses. Maybe with enough data I can just train some kind of model that spits out an expected grams/cyl given every sensor input except MAF like what FCA did with their Pentastar 3.6 ECU logic. Basically stock everything. The main motivation honestly is to have a sensor that can be a decent baseline source of truth. In scenarios you're describing obviously it won't work every time but it seems to me the number of corner cases that exist in MAF load is maybe not as severe and difficult to manage vs ITB alpha-N with some MAP/barometric compensation.
    • What are your plans for your blow off valves? Purely plumb back? How soft will the spring in them be? AFM can be tricky to get super smooth and nice, especially depending on the rest of the system, and then can be very easily upset if something slightly changes. IE, even if you run recirc blow off valves, you could still see issues getting it to behave at certain load points as turbos might start to spool, but you release the throttle but it's not enough pressure to crack the bov open to recirc, and you can end up with reversion which can cause double metering, and hence dumping of fuel into the system, and stalling the engine.   If you're going to run a map sensor for closed loop boost control from the ECU, what makes you want to keep the AFM?    
    • It's not bad, it's just not flexible. And say if you have any leaks between the MAF and plenum, well then your load axis goes out the window. Here's a real world scenario, I blew off an intercooler hose last track day, as the clamp decided to Bluetooth itself somewhere. Still continued to do 2 laps and drive it to the pub for a couple of beers then home. Good luck doing that with a MAF setup 
×
×
  • Create New...