Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i am in need of some lots of knowled about the Rear setup and modafying it of a RMR30 hatch syline.

Main points.

What are good for price aftermarket shocks that go straight in.

what car with higher rate springs has the same spring base.

how do i get a Neg camber plate very small one.

:P the Diff sucks any easy upgrades.(my axles are a bitch to take out lol)

thank you in advance casey james

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115040-r30-ppl-i-need-help/
Share on other sites

Ok i am in need of some lots of knowled about the Rear setup and modafying it of a RMR30 hatch syline.

Main points.

What are good for price aftermarket shocks that go straight in.

what car with higher rate springs has the same spring base.

how do i get a Neg camber plate very small one.

:worship: the Diff sucks any easy upgrades.(my axles are a bitch to take out lol)

thank you in advance casey james

Casey,

I have a pair of nearly brand new orange adjustable Koni's you can have for $100.00. They have never been on the road, just got fitted to my original project car, Ti Hatch for transporting to new premises and now out, as it got scrapped for parts.

As for higher rate rear springs, for reasonably normal day to day driving, the stock ones are fine about 120~130lb/in.

Get new fronts at about 175lb/in instead of the standards @ 108lb/in. If your in Sydney, Allsprings at Heathcote Rd Liverpool will make you a custom set for $125.00 pair. If your going this way, I have the Koni's still brand new in the box to go with them. Get a stiffer front sway bar and polyurethane bushes.

What's a "negative camber plate" .................... very small one ??????????????????????

As for the diff, unless you have $1500.00 to throw around forget any upgrade, as the only upgrade is an R200 and an LSD R200 will cost you pretty much that. An open R200 from maybe a Z31 300ZX will set you back about $300 upwards depending on it's condition.

I have an standard R180 open diff, 3.9:1 that came out of a car with just 40K on the clock and you can have that with a money back g'tee. The half shafts press into the side of the diff & lock with a circlip and with a couple of tire levers or big screwdrivers, you should be able to pop them out.

The trick with getting them out off the hubs is the left one needs to come out upwards and the right down, or that's how I found it. They are tight, but the outer CV's are spring loaded and have enough play to remove them.

Remember off the shelf cars were made to have luggage and passengers in them, that really equates to nothing as far as handling goes.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Dennis

As for the Koni's will call ya Tommorow and you can send em to me :(.

Diff is a maybe.

When talking about negative camber plates. Bah nevermind i will explain when i call you lol

and about the Higher spring rates i was talking as in i use Falcon au spec kings lows for the Rolla and thought maybe something similar might fit into the Spring base of the Skyline?

thanks heaps keep all Rear info coming. Front to i guess <.<

Would have been nice for more than one post? front info needed now aswell. guy already sold my coils! :)

As your in Qld, probably easier to get a couple of sets of King Springs. Tell them what your planning for the car and what rates you want and they will probably make them for you.

If your intending to drive it on the road, 200lb/in would be heaps on the back and make a corresponding front pair at about 33% stiffer. eg, 200lb/in rears ............ 260lb/in fronts. If it's a drift car ONLY! you can make the rears a little stiffer to maybe 250lb/in and get a stiffer/thicker than standard 20mm rear sway bar.

Ride height is a matter of choice, but 30mm lowered is usually the normal go.

Camber adjustable strut tops for the front are near impossible to find for anything R30, but S13 tops are the same stud pattern and could be modified to get you about 2 - 3 degrees. They will give a tad over 1.5% as they are, but to get more, mods are needed.

Will PM you with contact details about the Koni's etc.

Cheers, D

As your in Qld, probably easier to get a couple of sets of King Springs. Tell them what your planning for the car and what rates you want and they will probably make them for you.

If your intending to drive it on the road, 200lb/in would be heaps on the back and make a corresponding front pair at about 33% stiffer. eg, 200lb/in rears ............ 260lb/in fronts. If it's a drift car ONLY! you can make the rears a little stiffer to maybe 250lb/in and get a stiffer/thicker than standard 20mm rear sway bar.

Ride height is a matter of choice, but 30mm lowered is usually the normal go.

Camber adjustable strut tops for the front are near impossible to find for anything R30, but S13 tops are the same stud pattern and could be modified to get you about 2 - 3 degrees. They will give a tad over 1.5% as they are, but to get more, mods are needed.

Will PM you with contact details about the Koni's etc.

Cheers, D

K-Mac and Noltec both do adjustable strut tops for R30

http://www.noltecsuspension.com/files/cata...20Catalogue.pdf

http://www.k-mac.com/

Thanks for the info.

rb30de with uber high compression will be the new power plant.

would really prefer a stronger Adjustable coilover type front end. but prices are insane.

dedicated Drift car track only of course :thumbsup: lol

Edited by R30kc70UGE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but it's not as easy as pulling a fuse on anything other than an R32. There's a routine you have to do, involving disconnecting a loom plug and bleeding down the preload.
    • A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
×
×
  • Create New...