Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As rob has said, if you want PROPER comparatives, the dyno's need to be in shootout and strapped down accordingly. They also need to be the same brand (though I stand behind Dyno Dynamics) as you will get varied results on different brands and obviously TYPES of dynos. You can also have variances between same brands and different age dyno's its inevitable that

A DYNO IS A TUNING TOOL ONLY...but hey I know nothing

Sammie and others look at your dyno sheets as a BASIS to work from...or go somewhere else and then use that.

Paul spraying up that there will be a difference between 3rd and fouth gear makes me question some of the other info you so readily provide...please take this with a grain of salt, I am not here to have a keyboard war...

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

how can you say that?

how can a stock 33 GTS-T make 182rwkw when they are 187 at the fly. its not possible. and the car was bone stock.

again, how can my mates 200rwkw (in 4th) R33 make 243rwkw in 3rd?

Quite easily as I have seen and have proof, read my other post, this really is turning into a war of the keyboard...

ill re-iterate

it makes a difference if he/she is comparing to someone else who has a run done in another gear as the outputs look different. the power run is still a power run and its useful if tuning or comparing against a previous run in the same gear, but the common problem we see is 3rd gear runs typically do not compare against 4th gear runs.

ive never seen a 3rd gear run compare equally to a 4th gear run.

hey ppl i got a 93 gtst manual which consits of

-Front mount

-pod filter

-full 3 inch exhaust with split dump/front from batmbl

-greddy boost controller set to 11 psi

the results were 181.1HP

max hp came in at about 5100 rpm however my boost seemed to drop back to stock psi as the revs got higher any idea ? the guys at hyperdrive said the ebc might not hav been set up properly il try ge ta pic of the dyno sheet asap

cheers sam

isn't that abit low?

i smash 212rwhp @ 12psi on my RB25det with an Rb20 TURBO!, fmic, ebc, cat-back, air filter + cai. and this was on hyperdrive dyno

i took my car to j shop who fitted the ebc n found out my stock bov wasnt blocked off we he blocked it off n drove set the ebc to low boost which was .4 however still overboosted to .9 bar he fiddled around with tubing and bypassing sumthing until we got it right so now my high boost is set to .7 bar which worked it hits that and doesnt go further however after this i hav experienced more problems it wont hold .7 bar any further then 4500 rpm at 4500 rpm at .7 bar boost it will just release with my foot on the pedal, so now i hav another problem :sick:

' date='28 Apr 2006, 02:03 PM' post='2123558']

isn't that abit low?

i smash 212rwhp @ 12psi on my RB25det with an Rb20 TURBO!, fmic, ebc, cat-back, air filter + cai. and this was on hyperdrive dyno

why the hell are you running a rb20 turbo????

Quite easily as I have seen and have proof, read my other post, this really is turning into a war of the keyboard...

so you're trying to tell me that my bog stock R33 GTS-T has 182rwkw.

and then there are people with front mounts running higher boost than me, better exhausts, and they have the same or slightly higher rwkw?

found out my standard bov wasnt blocked off and it was leaking went back to the sho i had it dynoed at and said that would of been the cause so a mate blocked it off and feels alot better however now i set hi boost to 0.7 bar when im driving it will reach .7 bar then releases and goes down to .5 bar and stays consistant till i change gear not sure the prob now

OK Sammie. Few pages back you where explaining how ur mate connected a pipe from the top of your BOV to the inlet manifold. Im no expert but i beleive this is needed to activate and de-activate the BOV. Because as you change gear the engine goes into Vacume and forces the BOV to open up. Now if this wasnt connected at all! your BOV was probably leeking on boost and causeing that power curve. After you mate connected it the leek was fixed and you found alot more boost.

I would just like to input into the 3rd and 4th gear dyno runs. I would beleive the only differance is the torque!

What happesnt when you put smaller wheels on your car??? faster acceleration right. Now doesn that mean smaller wheels increassed you engine power?? NO.. it just decreased you gear ratio.. therefore more torque @ wheels and faster acceleration. So its the same thing if you change down a gear it doesnt increase you power.. it just makes more torque at the rear wheels.

Its the same when looseing off a tight bolt... if it doesn't come loose you increase the length off the bar right, and the bolt moves. This doesnt make you stronger it just means there is more torque applied on the bolt.

Anyway thats my opinion!

im not saying you guys are wrong with the whole gears not making a difference thing

all im saying is, i have a stock 33 gts-t which made 182rwkw in 3rd.

that is not correct. i dont care what anyone says, you're a fool if you beleive a stock 33 gts-t can make 182rwkw...because if it makes that in 3rd, it should make the same in 4th according to those that say the gears dont matter...

i know of another 2 cars, on 2 different dynos that have both made more in 3rd than they do in 4th...and not by a little amount

im not saying you guys are wrong with the whole gears not making a difference thing

all im saying is, i have a stock 33 gts-t which made 182rwkw in 3rd.

that is not correct. i dont care what anyone says, you're a fool if you beleive a stock 33 gts-t can make 182rwkw...because if it makes that in 3rd, it should make the same in 4th according to those that say the gears dont matter...

i know of another 2 cars, on 2 different dynos that have both made more in 3rd than they do in 4th...and not by a little amount

Incompetent dyno operators!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hey ppl i got a 93 gtst manual which consits of

-Front mount

-pod filter

-full 3 inch exhaust with split dump/front from batmbl

-greddy boost controller set to 11 psi

the results were 181.1HP

max hp came in at about 5100 rpm however my boost seemed to drop back to stock psi as the revs got higher any idea ? the guys at hyperdrive said the ebc might not hav been set up properly il try ge ta pic of the dyno sheet asap

cheers sam

Wow, my RB20DET with just a 3 inch cat-back, pod filter and stock boost level made 177rwhp on the same dyno... Something definitely not right with your car!!!

so you're trying to tell me that my bog stock R33 GTS-T has 182rwkw.

and then there are people with front mounts running higher boost than me, better exhausts, and they have the same or slightly higher rwkw?

Yes, that is what I am saying...............

And thank you NIB for helping out, geezuz I am close to insanity...

Edited by Bobjones

maybe your stock car has actually had a fully rebuilt blue printed & balanced engine with port/polished/flowed heads, intake & exhaust manifolds, with aftermarket cams and cam gears.....

all done in Jap land, all looking like a stock motor on the exterior....lol

just a thought....

2 add my 2cents, my 33 made 172kw with front mount, pod, cat back an 1 bar (14.7 psi) back in the day when thats all i had :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...