Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well how much is different? -

different body kit

different rims

engine mods?

exhaust mods?

interior changes don't matter.

if you really wanted one, it wouldn't be any different than bringing in a modded R34, just gotta find standard parts. Actually come to think of it, i don't think the kit may matter too much... as long as it's not too low, spoiler too high, etc...... hmmm...

TK R34 has non standard suspension parts (not just the strut), engine parts (boltons, but still), seats (big ADR no no), underbody diffusers etc.

I think the first reply says it all. Too much hassle. I don't forsee any compliancer who knows what a TK R34 GTt is to agree readily.

  • 3 weeks later...

Are they the only modifications to TK R34 GTTs?

My mate just bought one today (picks up tomorrow) and I've been trying to find info about the TK versions with no luck.

Pics of it are here http://ucn.dealernet.com.au/photo.php?ucni...515F063F3A58B2F

Edited by MattyP
a few of em came in under the old CPA import scheme... I remember back in 2002 or something HPI had a writeup on a black TK R34 GTt.

I almost bought a R34 GTT TK edition! but it was $42K!!! So i just got a 33 GTSt back in the early 'noughties'

Except from the bodykit and built in SatNav kit, i wasnt aware of any other mechanical differences... But, my point is that the importer was able to comply them!

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

of course you can dude! here is what you do:

Give me your money - i'll buy it and drive it here in japan for the year it takes to be able to import it under the personal import scheme and then i'll stick it on a boat and it's all yours! no compliance costs and you get my personal guarantee that i won't drift it or take it to track days or gymkahnas! :(:P

As long as the engine modifications aren't severe then yes it can be done. We have imported several modified R33's and R34's because we have access to stock parts which can be swapped for the pits and compliancing and then swapped back afterwards. Car's with bodykits (not over the top of course), interior mods etc. will pass compliancing and the pits. We sent a R33 with a FMIC fitted over the pits a while back and passed no worries. If you would like me to go into more detail or have any questions just ask.

Cheers,

hey,

I saw a black one with a tommi kit and other associated tommi stuff all over it for sale at phantom motorsports in brisbane not long ago, i recall seing an odd build plate in the engine bay, but I only looked briefly so I can't be sure, might've been something else

mark.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...