Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Blown Engine?

KILL HSV

By KILL HSV,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

KILL HSV Proficient

KILL HSV

Posted
Posted

after launching my car it seems the engine has given way.

i took it to unique auto sports and they did a compression test which was pretty ugly. test came out like this, (1)26.5 (2)33 (3)35 (4)95.5 (5)95.5 (6)43.5, pretty bad hey.

they said there was a small chance that the main problem is a stuffed head gasket, but more than likely stuffed pistons and more. I really don't have the money at the moment to pay them to fix pistons, but if its just smashed valves then my mate thinks he could fix it.

from what my mate says, it sounds like the timing belt could have slipped because it is old and deteriorating, and in turn put the timing out so the valves hit the pistons and bent.

could this make the bad compression?

i don't have heaps of money to fix this car anymore so it really depends on what is wrong as to whether i can fix it. basically head gasket and head i could afford but pistons i can't, this is why i didn't get UAS to pull it apart in the hope that the problem was a head gasket and then find the bottom end was wrecked because i really can't afford that.

when you turn the key to start her up you just get starter noise and engine won't crank. but at the same time the cams are turning, so the timing belt is at least still attached.

anyone with any info would be much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115208-r32-gtr-blown-engine/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Umm yes borken timing belt would stuff most of the valves, that would be pretty bad.

Did you get a quote for the head gasket....I think you will find its quite expensive even if that is the problem (and its probably not) There is an huge amount of labour to get the head off since you have to pull the intake and exhaust/turbs off as well.

If you really don't have the money then you have 2 choices....sell in broken and get bugger all for it, or get some mates who know what they are doing and pull it out and dissassmble it yourself....then you will know what is wrong and what you have to do. But if you go option 2 expect to be off the road for a long time.

Oh or option 3 which can be cheap if the head is OK....buy and rb30 bottom end (dirt cheap), 4wd sump adapter, chuck your head on and off you go.

Sorry for the bad news, but there is no cheap rebuild for an rb26, the parts are OK but the labour is a killer

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

A leakdown test may tell you if the problem is c/head, bottom end or both .

Did this happen suddenly ?

Is she blowing blue smoke ?

Are the turbos still there in one piece?

If it happen suddenly you may have lost an exhaust wheel on the front turbo and she sucked some ceramic dust in. If that was the case she would be blowing plenty blue smoke .

If it happen suddenly it wouldnt be h/gasket unless you got her very hot .

As for timming belt jumping a few teeth and bending valves, maybe but when you hit valves you bend them enough not to have any compression. Take the front cover off and check the cam timming, just put the bottom crank pulley on TDC and see if the cams line up with their marks .

Like Duncan said even cil head is a big job on a GTR, its very hard to pull off on the car, you are almost better of taking the engine out to do it .

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Ordinarily, bent valves would give 0 compression (I've seen an engine that had zero compression in 1 cylinder because the tappet was too tight on the top of the valve; set tappet clearance -> 180 psi compression!).

I've also seen an engine that stripped the teeth off the belt so the cam didn't turn, and none of the valves came into contact with a piston!

If the cams are turning, then the engine is cranking.

First thing is to get a leakdown test. Next would be to pull the head (it's going to have to be done anyway, even if it's a blown head gasket). If it IS valves, they can be repaired and the head replaced. If not, you can still pull the engine out for either a rebuild or a replacement.

frankxinyu Mentor

frankxinyu

Posted
Posted

sorry to be random, but just out of curiosity, whats the reading of the compression test when the motor is new? i did mine last month and got something like 165 for every cylinder, is that good or not?

again sorry for being off topic, and good luck with the car!

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
sorry to be random, but just out of curiosity, whats the reading of the compression test when the motor is new? i did mine last month and got something like 165 for every cylinder, is that good or not?

again sorry for being off topic, and good luck with the car!

165 is about right but it depends on the gauge the battery( how quick its spinning the engine)and how it was done, like WOT and engine in normal operating temp.

If all cil have the same comp thats a good indication of a healthy engine .

When the engine gets older if the top end ( valves ) is in good nick and totaly seals then compression would be higher that when it was new, because of carbon built up .

KILL HSV Proficient

KILL HSV

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

pretty sure it wasn't blowing blue smoke, or any smoke that i noticed.

the only things i noticed when it happened was that i lost power straight away, and was driving as if a cooler pipe was off but without the black smoke. so i initailly thought it could have been a turbo because of the lack of power but i'd say not. the the car died about a km up the road.

the other thing i noticed was that when i tried to accelerate, the engine made a loud ticking sound which got louder the more throttle you gave it. thats why i thought it could have been the valves.

i would love to do the rb30 thing but i really just can't afford this car anymore as it's draining all my money

i think i will get my mate to do a leakdown test, but with all that work involved just to get the head off, i think the end is nigh for the gtr. i'l probably end up selling it as is for a lot less.

Edited by KILL HSV
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
pretty sure it wasn't blowing blue smoke, or any smoke that i noticed.

the only things i noticed when it happened was that i lost power straight away, and was driving as if a cooler pipe was off but without the black smoke. so i initailly thought it could have been a turbo because of the lack of power but i'd say not. the the car died about a km up the road.

the other thing i noticed was that when i tried to accelerate, the engine made a loud ticking sound which got louder the more throttle you gave it. thats why i thought it could have been the valves.

i would love to do the rb30 thing but i really just can't afford this car anymore as it's draining all my money

i think i will get my mate to do a leakdown test, but with all that work involved just to get the head off, i think the end is nigh for the gtr. i'l probably end up selling it as is for a lot less.

Sorry to hear, but by what you said i wouldnt think it will be a blown h/gasket but could very well be stripped timming belt, especialy if you dont have lots of blowby .

Easy to caheck on the timing belt , just take off the top cover and put the harmonic balancer on TDC then check to see if the camgears line up with their marks.

  • 3 weeks later...
KILL HSV Proficient

KILL HSV

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok an update on the car, i haven't sold it yet and i was having another look in the engine bay and i found that an intercooler hose clamp was really loose.

could this have any effect on the compression?

also they did do a leak down test and it seems there is definitely head gasket damage, as cylinder 1 is leaking into no. 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tridentt150v
      What Music Are You Listening To?

      By tridentt150v · Posted

    • Goombeh
      Enkei RPF1 18x10.5 +15 - Vic pickup

      By Goombeh · Posted

      Hi, does anyone know how I can, or can a moderator remove this advertisement please.  Has been sold a long time ago and would like to remove references. Thanks. 
    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By r32-25t · Posted

      There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
×
×
  • Create New...