Rb20det Build

[superclarkey]

Hey guys, not been on here for a while (mega problems had to put my car shit on hold...)

Last time you heard from me i was building a RB24DET, well things changed and i had to sell up, sold the engine and my s13 that it was ment to go in....but alls well cam back into some money (its called working hard) and got myself my very own R32 GTST!! woohoo gone up in the world...

I bought myself a spare RB20DET motor too build up at christmas and its nearly built just a few last things to sort out like the turbo ect....

First this is the spec list..

RB20DET

HKS 264 Cams

Tomei pulleys

Calico main bearings + big ends

N1 GTR oil pump

N1 GTR water pump

440cc injectors

MoTeC 600 ECU + loom

Tomei 1.2mm headgasket (steel)

ARP main head studs

ARP con rod bolts

ARP main bearing studs

HKS Iridum plugs

Walbro fuel pump

Bar and plate intercooler + pipe work

oil cooler

RPS Max street clutch

full 3 inch system with front pipe and decat

HKS induction kit

I did have a HKS cast exhaust maifold and Tomei 82mm pistons for the RB24 conversion but i was forced to sell them last year, as you can guess i didn't buy all this parts in one go!! these have been collected over the last 3 months ect..

Now i want to add a HKS GT2530 to the mix with a .6x a/r (think thats better then the .84 ect)

What type of power would i be running with a good map a ect, i've already picked my mapper at WRC Technologys in the uk at the silverstone circuit on a dynodynamic dyno cell.

What do you guys think, i may have miss a few things of the spec list but if give you a good idea of what i've done to this engine, sadly as it still has the stock pistons (with Tomei rings thou) and rods this may be a limited factor, but something i plan to buy and fit later in the year.

Look forward to your replys and i will keep the thread updated with the results ect.

Clarkey.

[fEkuaR]

That sounds like it will be a ripper of an engine cast pistons wont be to bad if you have a good tuner. Although forged is deffinately good insurance when uve spent the money on everything else.

What sort of power were you aiming for with the setup?

[Roy]

Seiously, if that’s the turbo you are planning on running….then I would leave the motor's bottome end completely standard. The Cams are a good idea, but the rest of the mods I would put aside and spend the money on porting, something that will actually give you more power. The rest of the mods whilst good are most likely over engineering an already well engineered engine. Especially at your power goal. So yeh, dont worry so much about new rings for pistons, bearigns, head and rod bolts etc, spend a bit of money on the head, pair it up with cams and have a compartivley cheap engine and better performign engine

[Sydneykid]

My 20 cents;

The N1 RB26DETT oil pump has a wide flange drive, the RB20 cranksahft has a narrrow flange. You will need a crank collar (ProEngines) to stop the flange mismatch cracking the oil pump rotor.

The N1 RB26DETT water pump is designed for sustained high rpm, as in circuit racing for 6 hours plus. Not a good idea for a road car, idling, on a 45 degree day with the aircon on.

I don't see valve springs on the list, for the rpm, boost plus cam duration and lift you really should invest in a set.

Thick head gasket not required on an RB20DET, their standard compression ratio is already too low for best response.

Save your money and use copper plugs, iridium is not as good a conductor as copper.

Be careful with the Walbro pump, they lack the torque for good fuel pressure at high flow rates. A standard GTR fuel pump would be a better choice.

For your power target the Motec M600 is an expensive choice, realistically a on line chip and tune of your standard R32GTST ECU would do the job. For less than half the all up (buy, install and tune) cost of the Motec, a Power FC would be a btter choice as well.

I assume the 440 cc injectors are GTR ones. in which case don't foget the resistor pack if you are using the std ECU or a PFC.

I noticed the oil cooler which is a good idea if you are going to do some circuit work, but then you have specified a bar and plate FMIC. For circuit work and tube and fin is a better proposition. Less internal volume, lower total weight and freer flow to the radiator.

For the exhaust don't scrimp, go for the split dump and if you find a 3.25" for a good price grab it over the 3" cat back exhaust. Decat is of course totally illegal for a road car.

That's about it, hopefully saved you some waisted expense and used it for even better performance.

cheers

PS, I ddin't notice any mention of the suspension upgrades necessary to match the power output. Hopefully that's in another thread.

[bbe]

why does everyone bag walbro ?

[ellie]

Because most have had experience with them and better quality things have come out of a cows arse!

Seen heaps fail within weeks of installation and have seen only one go in and is still running strong after 6 months.

[RB power]

mines going strong...

and got a mate running 540hp @wheels and his is fine

[superclarkey]

All these parts are bought, so i can't really not fit them now.

I didn't know about the GTR oil pump, have not offered it up yet so thank you for that as i will have to look into it.

Just wanted to point out that suspention + brakes are sorted.

Tein Superdrift coilovers

Front tention rods

Front camber top arms

rear HICAS locking bar

rear camber adjustment arms

The shell is also fully seam welded and weld in roll cage.

brakes are 5 month old Brembo's off a Z33 GT4, which is the same as a R34 Vspec II (325mm disks all round) (mintex 1144 all round)

its running on 9 inch wide front and 10inch wide rear rims (with strech tyres)

This is a drift car, and will be used very hard indeed, I DON'T INTEND TO USE IT ON THE ROADS!

I was aiming for about 300bhp (225kw) @ wheels

I'm intending to swap the engine out towards the end of the year and go for a RB26, so thats why i got the MoTec, and more to the point i work for a company that is a Motec dealer, so why not!

As i said, it does seem an over spec engine for what i'm going to use it for but i was building a RB24 and i had alot of the parts all ready bought..

As for the headgasket i was told it was 1.2 mm as standard as i was told the 1.2 tomei gasket was 8.5:1 which is standard......

I am disapoint as i've put alot of work into making this engine perfect and it sounds like i've totaly done it wrong,

Edited April 28, 2006 by superclarkey

[superclarkey]

being in the uk, there is no were i can get this flange adapter so it looks like i'm going to have to order a stock RB20 oil pump, not cool at £300 each! £350 was spent on the N1 pump......

I will also order a set of valve springs tomorrow, and get the head port and polished in the mean time.

I'll sell the walbro and buy a brand new GTR R34 pump?? as not too many R34's about so will have to buy new.

about the injectors i have the resister pack.

same i didn't know about the exhaust, have put my 3inch system up for sale but i bet i will not get back what i paid for it were can i import a 3.25inch system from?

guess i'm going to have to order a expensive intercooler kit, same i thought i did well with my bar and plate as that is what i was told too get..

Can't belive how much i stand too loose, to put all this right i might just go and buy a RB25 and strip this for bits......

I feel like a idiot, goes to show how little i know

Thanx for the advice if there is anything else you can think of please list it, i'm sorry i've done it wrong its really hard to build something like this in the uk as there is no one that i can ask for advice as no one has a clue...(i guess like me)

clarkey.

Edited April 28, 2006 by superclarkey

[FATGTS-R]

If your target is 300hp @ wheels then the 2530 is definately an item you have chosen correctly and will be well suited to your intended application.

[superclarkey]

If your target is 300hp @ wheels then the 2530 is definately an item you have chosen correctly and will be well suited to your intended application.

This is the only item i've not bought yet and its the only part i've intended to buy that is correct for my build lol, now that is funny

Bit of good news then

Edited April 28, 2006 by superclarkey

[superclarkey]

what intercooler kit should i get, could you list a few of the best kits please so i get the right one.

Clarkey.