Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Warpspeed, thanks for a really excellent reply - it has certainly helped my understanding a bit, and helps explain why some people can get much better hp figures than others with stock engines - it all relies on how you make the power, not how much power - is this on the right line?

Your reply also reminds me of where I have heard MEP - Corky Bell, I should have remebered, but glad I asked the question, alot of interesting stuff in your reply.

Raises another question, hope you dont mind, you mention 4000FPM when talking about piston speed? Is this for Feet Per Minute? Also, is there a simple formula (or a complex one) for converting this to RPM - I take it, this will be number of pistons and length of stoke dependant?

Thanks again

Steve

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes Steve, I think Corky Bell mentions MEP in both his books.

I find it interesting that it is the combination of MEP and RPM that give the final power figure. High RPM are going to put a lot more stress and wear on engine parts than high MEP.

So if you can get 400BHP at 6,000 RPM with a turbo, it is going to be a lot kinder on the engine parts than 400BHP at 9,500 RPM normally aspirated. The turbo engine will have a far higher MEP (and torque output) because of the boost pressure.

The formula for piston speed is: stroke in mm, multiplied by RPM, divided by 153. This gives you mean piston speed in feet per minute. This is the figure everyone uses. Maximum peak piston speed will be a lot higher.

The main reason Formula one engines can reliably rev so high, is that the stroke length is very short. They get the required capacity from bore size and number of cylinders. Motorcycle engines also rev easily because the cylinders are small and the stroke is short. Some of them can reach crazy RPM without huge conrod stresses.

I am not sure what the exact stroke length of the current V10 engines is, but I think it might be around 55mm. At 18,000 RPM the piston speed would be 6470 fpm. Well beyond a steel conrod, and getting pretty high even for an aluminium or titanium conrod.

How is this poor piston design. It is used to enable oil to cool the pistons - further removing the chance of detonation.

I find it interesting that an engine design that has stood the test of time, been modified to high degrees, with great reliability, produces high output reliably in stock form, has an at the time unbeaten track record and you call it "such poor design".

Can you explain this please, as it flies in the face of all thought currently being expressed on GTRs? I am more than a bit confused also, you own a skyline, join a skyline forum and then start slagging off the cars? This forum is for use constructively, if you have an opinion, why cant you back it up with facts or personal experiences - instead of just making wild claims?

I am not having a go, but I do believe that perhaps you are missing the idea behind this forum, and the reason people come here - to hopefully be able to learn something and share knowledge - not provoke arguement and disrupt threads started by people trying to gain knowledge.

Have you had a look in the Wasteland? If you want to have a go at skylines, why not pop in there, I am sure you will find people willing to further discuss it.

The GTR pistons have proved to be a very good design. I know nothing of MR2 pistons, I have only seen pictures. Also Mazda are now doing this as well on some turbo engines.

The circular oil cooling gallary that runs behind the top ring and the two diagonal oil holes in the GTR piston are very clever design. I have looked at this for a long time, and I am stuffed if I know how they manufacture it in a cast piston.

The oil squirter squirts oil straight up into one of these holes. The oil then runs around inside the hollow piston, and drains out of the opposite hole. A very ingenious and efficient way to remove heat from the piston crown.

But Steve is right. You would make yourself more welcome I you added to the knowledge rather than slinging off at people and thier cars.

If you piss off enough people the moderators might start to take an interest in you.

Hi guys. very well covered topic, the only thing that seems to be missing from this thread is the stroke versus rod length discussion. You can have an engine configuration (rod length versus stroke) which causes excessive side loading on the conrod, ie; as in Warpseeds example, at 20 degrees ATDC on the power stroke, maximum pressure loading is exerted on the piston and rod. If the stroke/rod length ratio is excessive then this can rapidly accentuate the cyclic fatigue of the rod itself due to the angle of the pressure not just its maximum amount.

This (excessive rod angle) is quite common when you increase the stroke of engine and shorten the rod to accommodate this longer stroke within the block height. This is the reason why the RB26 3 litre kits from OS Giken and others actually increase the height of the block by longer cylinder liners and deck spacers. Thereby keeping the rod length long enough to avoid the excessive loadings.

This is also the reasoning behind longer rods sometimes appearing to be weaker because they are narrower in profile. And a shorter rod stronger because is has to be thicker in profile.

The other issue worth considering is the failure of big end bearings due to premature pressure loadings (eg; before 20 degrees ATDC). It is known to have engines that do not detonate sufficiently to cause piston damage, but have pressure loadings early enough in the cycle to over accelerate the piston and conrod thereby compressing the oil film and causing damage to the upper big end bearing shell.

This is something that I have seen a number of times in high torque turbo and methanol powered engines. No piston damage, no signs of detonation, no logged detonation ( in meaningful amounts), no discernible lower bearing shell wear but extreme (to the point of failure) upper bearing shell wear.

This is atypical of these engines having been tuned very close to there max.

Perhaps a couple of practical applications of the theory would be useful. Let's get the ball rolling, a standard RB26 is 3,850 FPM at 8,000 rpm, which is getting pretty close to the theoretical max for steel conrods. An RB30 is 4,170 FPM at 7,500 rpm, this is why we strongly recommend a conrod upgrade in RB30's when a DOHC conversion (RB25 or RB26) is done. This is also why an RB20 can see 8,750 rpm (3,990 FPM) without excessive conrod loadings.

Hope that stimulates some further thoughts.

Hi again Sydneykid.

I knew you could add something really worthwhile, you always do.

Have you ever tried putting an RB26 crank with some verrry long rods into one of your RB30DET motors ? The rod ratio would end up well over 2.0, I did work it out once, but cannot remember the exact rod ratio figure.

I think it was Bill Sherwood on another thread said the Formula one guys are using a rod ratio of about 2.3 or something. The change in piston motion around TDC and BDC would be pretty dramatic.

From what I have read huge rod ratios give better high RPM cylinder filling for a given cylinder head flow, and port volume. Any ideas on this ?

long rods are a key element of any good engine. Hell a standard mopar v8 uses 6.123" long rods, thats a BIG rod ;) Longer rods cause the piston to 'dwell' at tdc longer which produces better combustion, and increases the engines volumetric efficiency. Higher vr = more air/fuel into the engine, so more power.

And saying a stroker engine will need shorter rods is a misconception, the added stroke is usually made at the bottom of the stroke, and shorter pistons (thus stroker pistons) make up any added length at the top of the stroke. Although stroker rods are different to normal rods, i think it has to do with the size of the big end tho, im not actually too sure.

Any of u guys ever had any experience with pistons that have been ceramic coated on the top?

edit: although strokers do have lower r/s ratios, due to the same length rod but a longer stroke obviosly.

Yet more interesting replies, thanks again.

Raises another question, how would you reduce to the point of insignificant the damage to big ends by over acceleration of the piston?

Xeron, I think I am missing something here, I thought it was mentioned that shortening the rod to increase stroke commonly causes excessive rod angle?

Can you explain how a longer rod causes the piston to dwell longer? And how stoke length is made up at the bottom of the stroke? Sorry for all the quesitons, but this really flies in the face of my really basic understanding of physics as it applies to the geometry of the internals. Sorry there are so many questions here, but understanding how things work helps me remeber:)

Cheers

Steve

Shortening the rod dosn't change the stroke, the crank still pushes the rod up and down the same distance, it will just kill your compression ratio and like you said, it induces excessive rod angle.

Hrm, its kind of hard to explain... im ****ing sick as and drugged up atm, so if i confuse you im sorry ;)

Okay since the rod is longer, it works on less of an angle right. Due to this its at TDC for more degrees of angle, thus a longer period of time.

Ill try and find a site that explains it better when i get home tommorrow.

Um with strokers the extra displacement is made by pulling the piston further down the bore, but it still onl raises to (roughly) the same tdc hight, the extra displacement comes from the bottom of the cycle. The main problems you have are the rods wont usually clear the block if you use the standard sized rods, so some griding needs to be done on the big end.

Hi guys, I just knew this thread would get interesting. The problem I have with "stroker pistons" is they move the gudgeon further up the piston. This reduces the amount of piston skirt available for the rings ie: they may have to be closer together. This leads to a propensity for ring land damage as there is less metal to absorb the load on the rings.

A higher gudgeon pin also causes more bore wear as the thrust loading is no longer balanced on the piston skirt ie; it is higher up than previous so less surface area to absorb the sideways thrust.

Somebody asked about ceramic coating of the piston crowns. We have done a number of engines with full ceramic coating inside the combustion chamber, exhaust ports and exhaust manifold. The reduction in oil and water temperature is certainly noticeable. I can't say that there is more horsepower or less lag (due to higher exhaust speed) as it is more difficult to measure. We always do other things to the engine, so it is never a straight before and after comparison.

We have had one bad experience with an engine that had the ceramic coating come off, made a real mess of valves, turbo, exhaust, intercooler etc Coating was not done by our usual guy, the owner had it done himself. We have not a problem with our supplier.

Hope that adds to the discussion some more.

From what ive heard the coating reduces detonation a fair bit due to the ceramic reflecting heat back better and not absorbing it and creating hot spots. Ive never actually heard of the combustion chamber being coated, most people just polish it to a mirror finish from what ive seen.

Steve.

Engine geometry is a fascinating subject in itself. If you start off with just the cylinder block, the distance between the head face and the crank centerline will be some fixed dimension. When you decide to fit crankshafts with various strokes to this same block, there are a few side effects to the internal geometry.

The first thing is that at TDC the piston is always going to be at the top of the bore, level with the top of the block. At BDC it will be the stroke length down the bore. So what Xeron says about all the additional stoke length being at the bottom in a long stroke engine makes sense if you think about it.

Carrying this a bit further, a longer stroke engine will have the crankpin higher at TDC, and lower at BDC than a shorter stroke engine. So it follows that If you use identical pistons the long stroke engine must have conrods shorter by half the increase in stroke length. This all assumes an identical block is used for all these changes in stroke.

There will be a ratio of conrod length to crankshaft stroke, called the rod ratio. If the rods are 100mm long and the stroke is 50mm the rod ratio will be 2.0

If you increase the stroke, the new conrods might have to be 95mm, and the stroke 60mm, giving a new rod ratio of 1.58

As sydneykid says another way to do it might be to keep the same conrods in the long stroke engine, and move the piston pin 5mm higher up the piston. In this case there would be 100mm rods with the 60mm stroke giving a rod ratio of 1.66

The higher pison pin placement may not be physically possible, or it might require the ring package to be very high with close ring spacing. This will weaken the ring lands and make the piston more susceptible to detonaton damage. But it also might lead to a shorter and lighter piston as well.

So whats the big deal with rod ratio ?

Try to imagine an engine with the shortest possible conrods, at the 90 degree stroke points the conrods will be at an extreme angle to the bore. They might slope 45 degrees one way, and then slope 45 degrees the other way. (not actually possible, but you get the idea)

Now imagine some very long conrods, maybe two metres long. The conrods will always be almost vertical throughout the entire stroke.

Vertical downward pressure on the piston is going to try to wedge the piston against the side of the bore with the very short rod engine.

The long rod engine will push straight down onto the vertical conrod putting almost no sidethrust onto the piston at all. This is more mecanically efficient, but very long conrods are going to make the engine block tall and heavy. So there has to be a compromise in this.

Conrod ratio also has an effect on the motion of the piston in the bore. If the conrods are very long the piston moves almost in a perfect sinewave motion.

Short conrods distort this, the piston moves faster during the top half of the stroke than the bottom half of the stroke. This is difficult to visualise, and almost impossible to put into words.

But either get yourself an engine, or make a cardboard model, and plot piston position for each ten degrees of crank rotation. You will find that the piston almost stops dead for maybe thirty or forty degrees of crank rotation around BDC. The piston might move less than 1mm or 2mm. The bottom of the conrod swings in an arc on the piston pin, which corresponds to the arc of rotation of the crankpin. So the piston just stops for a while.

At the top of the stroke, the piston rapidly decelerates and changes direction very suddenly with a short conrod engine.

So the rod ratio has a dramatic effect on the piston motion in the bore. This has all sorts of side effects, and influences what happens on the induction stroke and power stroke, and also valve timing requirements.

Some more great replies, thanks all.

Warpspeed, for someone who describes something as difficult to put into words, you did a bloody good job - its all alot clearer.

Sort of explains why all the wear is being done at the top and bottom of the stroke, loads increase as the energy is trying to transfer with poor mechanical advantage. Have I got this right.

Also asks the question, how much more efficient would an engine be if there wasnt the loss of energy here, then again I suppose it also has some positive features too?

Cheers

Steve

Peewee, I am sure all you say is true.

But why do you always just rubbish without offering anything constructive. People read these posts hoping to learn something new or interesting. So why not try and give facts, figures and explanations.

If you have the knowlege and experience that you claim to have, share it with us. What exactly is it about the RB engine that you do not like. If you were going to re design it how would you do it and why?

I will have a go at answering your piston question.

The thing about any highly stressed part is not how much metal there is, but where the metal is, and where the stresses are. The aerospace people are very good at designing very strong parts that are also light. The trick is that you can safely remove material from places where there is little stress.

If you have ever examined a piston that has cracked due to detonation it is the ring lands between the rings that fractures. The ring grooves are rectangular in section, and the cracks start at the root of the ring groove, and goes through to the next ring groove. Usually a whole section of ring land breaks away and rattles around trapped between the rings.

The way to make the ring lands stronger is to put more meat into the ring land. In other words place the rings further apart so the ring lands are wider.

In most cases the crack does not go further into the body of the piston, but sometimes it will. So putting an oil cooling duct in the pison crown is probably not going to weaken the piston significantly.

I have never seen a detonation fractured GTR piston, but I am unaware that there is a design problem here. If pistons were cracking through to the cooling duct, and it was a common fault, we would all have heard about it by now.

I have actually broken a piston into two parts due to massive detonation (and my own stupidity), but I could not say that the piston design was in any way at fault.

Design problems always show up as the same recurring fault. A one off failure is not a design problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've found some free time to write up my "build thread" which is 10% 'build' and 90% fixing problems of a skyline that has endured a lifetime of abuse. I will start with the backstory & get everyone up to speed. Ever since I was just a teenager in high school I have had a spot in my heart for the shape of an R32 rivaled only by the look of an S13, my mates & I all having overly ambitious dreams as one does about having the sickest car in the school carpark. Unfortunately I started my journey of cars down the path of the Silvia and after spending years of putting up with the underwhelming SR20 life I dipped my toes into the 1J Toyota pool for a small moment until my true compass brought me back to that incomplete dream of an R32. At this point the trawl through marketplace, gumtree, carsales etc. starts looking Aus wide for an affordable example in the current economy which was extremely barebones compared to the good old days of sub 10k cars everywhere. Out of the handful of cars in the budget at the time I settled on a 1992 R32 GTS-T that was located in Adelaide. It had caught my eyes as it was similar price to the others on the east coast and had been RB25DET NEO converted and an open door respray in a custom colour based off TH1. It was also a stand out to me because it already had some NSW registration left which saved me the hassle of getting it on the road in my state. As for mods I was told it was pretty stock other than the motor swap, a nistune to run it, and an unknown fuel pump. My first mistake was trusting the seller blindly that the car was in good condition in all aspects and decided to purchase the car unseen other than some walkaround videos & pictures as the flights down there were very expensive at the time. The price of getting it transported to my door from Adelaide from Sydney was surprisingly cheaper than the flights at the time. I was told the few issues it apparently had was only 1 speaker not working, some cracked or missing trims, and it had been rear ended at some point but had been all professionally repaired (this is all foreshadowing at this point). I paid for the car, and then booked the interstate transport. Now at this point save your criticism as I already know how stupid I sound in hindsight, this was a major lapse of judgement and I accept the problems that followed. I spent the next 2 weeks in a crazed excitement knowing I am finally the owner of an R32 & that it was on its way. I started preparing as when negotiating with the seller I opted out of the Lenso wheels as they aren't really my style & I wanted a set of genuine wheels, and the bucket seats in the car as I am 6ft5 and not the skinniest guy so I had my predictions that I wouldn't fit in them anyway. Due to this the car was put on a set of R33 stockies and some average condition R33 seats that he had laying around. While I waited for the car to arrive I went and picked up a pair of R32 seats and some R32 GTR wheels to fit nicely on it once it had arrived. Being the first time I had done anything like this or had a car transported interstate I had no clue how the logistics of it were, I chose my work as the delivery address assuming it would arrive at some point in the middle of the day. You can imagine my surprise when I wake up to a call from the truck at 5:30am telling me his about 20 minutes away. When I tell you that was the fastest drive to work I have ever done, I managed to catch up to the truck before it even got there. Spent the hours before work taking in the car and living my first experience with one, I had never even been inside one so I spent some time getting familiar with the interior before doing the seat swap. Here is my first proper photo of it as the sun rose in the background. I also noticed it had the switch for the electronic front lip which was a pleasant surprised but sadly upon looking it didn't actually have the lip or the motors or even any wiring behind the switch. As I swapped the seats, the extremely questionable history of the car started to show itself starting with some really dodgy seatbelt buckles that had been extended for some reason with horrendous welds. This was followed by me noticing the drivers side front was quite bent up to which the owner then decided to let me know it had been hit in the front at the same time as the rear end. It also had a pretty leaky power steering rack and the pump was screaming for its life. By now I was a little on edge but I had to get to work for the day, I sent the car down to my mechanic to get the fluids changed and a general check over as I started to question what I had got myself into. I packed the GTR wheels into the car to get put on while it was there as I ran out of time which was a struggle because the handle to release the fuel door/boot was non-existent and just had the end of the cable tied to a bolt. It wasn't much of a surprise when I got a call saying that it looked like the fluids hadn't been done in quite some time. Although that didn't come as a shock, it did catch me off guard when I was told he couldn't open the boot which had the wheels in which I just had open not long before. Mission #1 was to squeeze through the back panel and open the boot from the latch while loaded with a set of wheels which to my amazement he pulled off after a bit of a struggle to reveal there was nothing holding the cable mechanism in place where it sits at the fuel cap. After that dilemma was solved the mechanic did an inspection over the car while on the hoist with nothing too interesting being found other than the expected crushed frame rails. It seems to have had some bilstein shocks installed at some point and judging by the AWD sump that has been sealed up I suspect the NEO is out of a stagea. By the time I got the car back and was ready to have my first drive home in it I was still excited but now quite anxious with the car already. First stop was to the servo to get a nice fresh tank of fuel as I had no idea how long it may have been sitting around for before I bought it. It sat quite nicely on the GTR stockies I must say. Now my drive home from work is short only being a 15-20 minute commute so the chances of anything going wrong is quite small right? WRONG. As I go over a speed bump only 100m from home I start to smell the dreaded smell of electrical burning and my lights drop out and shortly after the car dies. I am in extreme panic at this point thinking the car is going to burn down on its first drive before I have even had a chance to insure it. I move to the bonnet as quick as I can and lift it up, and as I go to grab the bonnet prop my brain is in such a frenzy that it takes me a second to realise my hand is being burnt to a crisp. This is where I notice that there is no plastic clip for the bonnet stay and when I have gone over the speed bump it has knocked the stay onto the positive terminal of the battery welding itself there. Levering it off with a nearby stick I sat there for a few minutes making sure nothing was going to burn down while waiting for a mate to come jump start me. My main stress was that I could've absolutely cooked the ECU or any other electrics. I was relieved when the car started fine with jumper leads on it but it would die as soon as the headlights were turned on so I carefully limped it home with no lights and decided it was a tomorrow task. You can see here where the stand sat on the positive terminal. Thankfully with a new battery the car behaved and seemed healthy. It was pretty smooth sailing for a little while getting to enjoy dailying the car. Interior wise it was pretty much as the seller described except for the the lack of working speakers, the digital controls had no power, and the headunit would randomly turn off & on. I installed a quick release I had laying around from an old car to help with getting in & out of the car and a nice momo wheel. I bought some oem side skirts to match the rear pods that were on the car already, who said a skyline can't be a practical parts mover. Test fit looks good! Found a good deal on a GTR wing & boot that I couldn't turn down. At this point the skyline was being too good to me and had to throw the spanner in the works again. First incident was as I was coming off the motorway and heard a bang and an awful grinding noise. As I pull over down a side street to investigate I notice my whole exhaust has basically fallen off and is dragging on the ground. After waiting around to let it cool to the touch I managed to get it back on its hangers. Thinking it was a weird 1-off instance I didn't think much of it until it happened to me again a few days later to which I see this time the middle hanger has snapped in half and the rear hangers have snapped at the welds. I manage to get the car in to a shop to get the hangers welded and while there I notice that my intercooler has broken its brackets and was being held up only by the piping. Quickly got that sorted and got some thicker brackets out of steel plate to support it all. Just when you thought at this point the car might give me a break, I fill the car up on my way home from the fabricators shop and after I pay I walk back to a good portion of my liquid gold on the floor. I just shrug it off at this point in exhaustion and call it a job for another day. The car had other plans for me though as the next morning on my commute to work, I am halfway there when I notice I am struggling to shift gears. I get lucky with a run of no red lights to work and find some time on my lunch break to investigate the problem. The slave wasn't leaking and the master still had fluid so I was left confused until I contorted myself under the dash and noticed the whole pedal moving loosely side to side when pushed in. Upon pulling it out of the car I found it to be multiple snapped spot welds on the clutch pedal bracket and the actual face of the pedal that sits against the firewall had snapped in half. I jerry rigged it with nuts & bolts at the spot welds but I will need to come back to this in the future and replace with one of the strengthened nismo brackets available. I then got to enjoy the car for another 2 months of cruising and dailying it, peep the obnoxious fireballs it would shoot every shift on the dodgy tune that was on there. On a sunday drive in that period of working car, I was on my way home on the motorway when I heard a slapping noise on my front left to which I pulled over to find my indicator had ejected itself from the car. Nothing a bit of tape can fix lol. I then bought some smoked indicators but after I realised I didn't like the look I found some damaged series 1 indicators. I repaired the tabs with some cut up cards and they looked good to me. My next venture was the hunt for some wheels, I test fit my mates Work Equip Spinning that were tiny 15" and I wasn't sold on the small wheel look. I ended up finding a killer deal on some Rays Volk Racing Group C in 17x8.5 & 17x9 that had been rebuilt many years ago and not ran on a car. I am still yet to get these on the car as they require some specific adapters and shank style lug nuts but I think they will look awesome. At this point my 2 months of reliability had ran out and on a cruise with some friends I suddenly lost the ability to shift gears again and thankfully could get it home by taking main roads and not having to stop. This time my master cylinder was bone dry and the culprit was the clutch slave that had decided to let go. It was a quick and fairly easy fix, but in my luck bad things always come in waves. Only a few weeks later I am on my way home from World Time Attack when the car completely shuts off while coasting down a hill, I try crank it while I still have momentum but no luck. Thinking I might have killed the fuel pump from running it low or maybe killed a CAS because the symptoms seemed to line up somewhat, I opt to get the car towed to a workshop to get fixed up on the Monday. When it gets there they get stuck into diagnosis and the CAS wasn't sending a signal to the ECU, and the fuel pump was also dead so it was comical for a small moment there. They replace the dead fuel pump when one of them notices some smoke coming from the passenger kick panel. Boy oh boy this is where it gets very bad and very expensive. I am not sure who wired the car when the NEO swap was done originally but I hope they never attempt auto electrical again as I am lucky that this handywork only managed to short and kill the ecu and engine loom and not do more damage. This is the point where you could say the 'build' started but not by choice. After some deliberation with my bank account I opted for a Haltech Elite 2500, RB terminated loom, and WB1. While I wish I stopped there and did the minimum of get the car running and leave it at that, I slipped into the rabbithole and decided I wanted to make the most of getting a retune and throw some bolt ons at it and see what it would do. I then threw together a bit of a mix n match build of marketplace deals starting with a GCG GTX3076R, a turbosmart FPR6, 980cc injectors, walbro 460, jackspanian ffp, throttle & fuel rail. At this point it was coming along nicely, the shop was making quick work of it and the bay was looking a lot nicer without the stock crossover intake. I also got them to replace the noisy centre bearing while it was off the road. Then we couldn't get an OEM CAS to talk to the haltech so ended up getting a PRP Street Trigger Kit for it.   While the car wasn't playing nice it decided to kill the stock alternator too so went with an LS1 alternator conversion kit. By now the car was pretty much done and ready to go but come tune day the car kept throwing the timing out every time it would warm up. Upon further investigation it seemed to be warping the PRP trigger bracket when the metal would get hot and expand which would cause the sensor to lose timing as it moves. Herman advised that they have seen the issue a few times now and don't know what the cause is. At this point I decided to switch to the PRP Pro kit with the crank trigger and considering the whole timing belt would have to come off I decided to get a new timing belt kit with water pump fitted. The car would now run fine with no issues and it was finally tune time. It ran up a healthy 275kw but ran out of boost due at 17psi to the rear housing being undersized. At this point the clutch also started slipping and due to it still being a weak RB20 box the tuner set it up to ramp from 8psi up to 17psi with the revs so that it wouldn't load up the clutch and box as hard. Car drives like a dream now. With the car back on the road I could return my focus to the smaller details, starting with getting a set of badges for the hood and quarters. I was struggling to drive with shoes on and I noticed that my accelerator pedal sits higher than my brake and clutch, if someone could confirm how it should sit that would be great. Next little changes was a killallwipers rear windscreen wiper delete, I also got some interior bits I was missing such as parcel shelf speaker covers, wiper trim cover, and boot floor and trims. Finally made it to a SAU NSW event which was awesome to cruise with a bunch of likeminded individuals. Another creature comfort I decided to look into was my lack of A/C. Since the Haltech got wired up the digital climate would power up now, and would blow but no cold air. First issue noticed was the lack of belt on the A/C compressor. After sorting that to no avail, it also had no A/C gas in it, but turns out the condenser has a huge leak. We are almost caught up on the story so far, but at the start of this month while coming into a driveway I heard a huge clunk in the front end to which I got out to witness whatever dodgy camber arms someone installed in this at some point decided to snap in half and I feel very lucky that it didn't happen at speed. Managed to get the car fixed the next day with some replacement GKtech arms. Next problem to address was the leaking gas tank from months ago. Checked the pump hanger seal first but that was fine, stuck my camera up after filling up to try scope out the leak which looked like the breather hose. Got the car up on a hoist prepared to drop the tank when I reached up to feel with my hand and I could feel that the hose clamp was missing and soon after felt that there was a gaping hole in the top of the hose. Replaced and tested and the car holds its liquid now and doesn't give me a fume headache whenever I drive it now. Finally have caught up and now onto fixing my latest issue which is the lack of dash light when driving at night, checked fuses first, then when searching I found the common problem of the headlight switch burning out but mine looks fine. Next test will be plugging a known working headlight switch into my car to tell if my switch is dead. Sorry for the long read but I wanted to be thorough, so if anyone made it this far I salute you soldier. Enjoy the rest of your day and I will keep this updated with issues I find/solve and any cool mods I can do inbetween. Merry Xmas!
    • can someone tell me what information a block number of 330680a on a rb25det engine specifies?
    • Would you suggest staying with a twin setup but upgraded turbos  ?
    • @Duncan hopefully they have a good hard look at Toyota. Both EVs AND performance vehicles! 
×
×
  • Create New...