Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking for a front mount intercooler kit for a R32 that uses the side mount pipes.

As i can't find any kits available new or second hand i'm looking at alternative options.

(If anyone has one for sale or knows of one for sale please PM me)

I found this XR6 cooler upgrade, i could probably fit something like this in and just get some pipes

made up to suit.

Opinions on XR6 cooler?

post-20679-1146357009.jpg

This is the type if after but can't find:-

post-20679-1146361333.jpg

Edited by lows_13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115505-front-mount-for-r32/
Share on other sites

there was a thread recently about modifying an R34 gtt side mount cooler to fit R32 gtst stock cooler spot.

that might be an option for you.

Sydney kid posted a few points in there.. says it flows and cools well for 220 rwkw on his RB20det powered R32... and that is a track car. which is used only for thrashing constantly at the track.

might be comething to consider since they cost about $150 and an aluminium welding place could modify the end tank to be same as R32 stock cooler (SK said he paid $50) and you could bolt it straight in it's place.

so..

I have this idea about a "return inercooler".

I still have this idea about a "return intercooler".

rather than getting a 600 X 300 intercooler, getting 2 600 X 150 intercoolers and mounting them one on top of the other.

then you loop sone side back to itself.

You now have a 600 X 300 intercooler with inlet / outlet on the same side.

This is only an idea, so some comments, criticisms, etc would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to do it, if only to be different.

I figure it will save a little piping, too.

a mate of mine (member on this forums) got defected for "unengineered modification to chassis" for cutting the hole under the washer botle in the side sil.. $600 for engineering later...

those ARC 180 degree bend ones arent THAT bad..

I have this idea about a "return inercooler".

I still have this idea about a "return intercooler".

rather than getting a 600 X 300 intercooler, getting 2 600 X 150 intercoolers and mounting them one on top of the other.

then you loop sone side back to itself.

You now have a 600 X 300 intercooler with inlet / outlet on the same side.

This is only an idea, so some comments, criticisms, etc would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to do it, if only to be different.

I figure it will save a little piping, too.

air is now going through 2 intercoolers.. it would be too much of a restriction..

basically like air being pushed through 1200 x 150mm core.

a mate of mine (member on this forums) got defected for "unengineered modification to chassis" for cutting the hole under the washer botle in the side sil.. $600 for engineering later...

those ARC 180 degree bend ones arent THAT bad..

Just one of the reasons why i don't want to go down that path.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...