Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jason - Caliper kits - $20 per corner - Rebuild for free :)

DBA4909SL + SR's - $--- Pair (uh oh...super duper cheap price cannot be displayed)

Go the Hawke pads - cannot beat 'em.

That is all you will need. If your brake fluid is getting over 600 degrees then there is something wrong....you don't need braided lines. Standard lines hold well over 5000 psi cold. The brake fluid you are using will be sufficient to prevent brake fade in your application.

Edited by 3lit3 32
  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi everyone

I got some rims that were the wrong offset (i live in Broome WA, no good rim wheel shops, and prices are ridiculous anyway) and grinded a bit off the calipers to make them fit, but ive got some new calipers on the way, and was thinking of doing the GTR 324mm x 30mm DBA4000 slotted rotor upgrade.

Roy - where did you get the brackets from for your conversion? As this is the only part i will now need so i can get the clearance i require.

cheers

Evil

Hey, if the wheels in your pic are the ones you have then i run the same in 18". Race brakes in Sydney did my bracket, but they no longer do it. The only place i know of still doing the kit is Unique Autosports in Sydney.

Im going to get a few made for friends in a few weeks, so may get a few extras done

Jason - Caliper kits - $20 per corner - Rebuild for free :wave:

If you can get the rebuild kits for that price...well im happy tp ay a little bit exta as i need to rebuild mine and a friends and the ebst i can get is $100 for the front and still to get a price for the rear...hook a brother up:)

Jason - Caliper kits - $20 per corner - Rebuild for free ;)

The only place I found that had caliper kits was Race Brakes, and they were $20 per half caliper, so $80 for the front. If you know where to get them for half that then let us all know! I agree that rebuilding brakes is good too. For some weird reason I always trust the job when I do it.

You don't need bigger brakes to pull up quicker. If you can lock the wheels with your present brakes then they are big enough, unless they've overheated. Your tyres are more important than the brakes for hauling up quick. My GTR has shit tyres and the stopping distance is ridiculous even though it has Brembos. The biggest advantages that bigger brakes have is being able to dissipate heat better (less fade) and being easier to control the locking point of (larger diameter=more leverage).

Personally, I think the standard 4 pot GTS-t brakes are great. About 6 months ago I installed new DBA4000 rotors and RB74 pads (front only) with Falken FK451 tyres all round and it was one of the quickest stopping cars I've ever been in. The GTR has shithouse Wasabi compliance tyres or something stupid, and even though I've never experienced brake fade, it's much easier to lock up the wheels. I can't wait for them to wear out so I can fork out another $1200+ for good tyres that I can't afford :D

As for brake fluid, Caltex GP600 is one of the best value ones you can get for street and mild track use. It's only Dot 4, but it has higher temperature tolerance than some dot 5's and doesn't have squishy silicone in it. Minimum boiling point is 300 degrees C, minimum wet boiling point is 195 degrees.

Optimising the std gear, and making sure it is working right will give good results. I run DBA 4000 (albeit larger diam) and im a fan of how long lastign they have been...but i would tend to look around and find some std sized rotors that used curved vanes rather then Kangaroo Paw.

None of the high end rotors use the Kangaroo Paw rotor type, they all used curved vane, so with the Z32 takign the same rotor, surely there is a manufacturer somewhere that is makign curved vanbe rotors for R32 GTST/S15/Z32 etc etc????

If the choise comes down to Kangaroo Paw and straight vane i would definitely take the Kangaroo Paw.

well, i ended up ordering a pair of DBA4909 (DBA4000 Slotted) rotors, and some Ferodo DS2500 pads today...

does anyone know if DBA4000 slotted rotors are cast with the slots, or if the slots are machined into the disc after they've been made?

see this thread for more info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=116278

Where are you getting the Standard Size DBA4000 Slotted rotars from??? ....And what would I expect to pay for all four?

....I'd like to get some for my car :angry:

EDIT: Just realised ur in Brissie(im in melb)... Would I be able to get them from say a REPCO or something like that?

Try RaceBrakes...Last I priced 4909's for my GTST (a while ago) RRP was about $250 per rotor, but they can be had cheaper than that. SAU VIC Members get a discount too I think :D

While I am no fan of DBA's design philosophy which has caused significant problems on Roy's front end, and which they "fixed" with an idiotic reverse slot at the circumference they are popular and sometimes priced competetively so buy what is best priced. I prefer RDA myself and thay have the new slotted and dimpled design.

A stopper and good pads with slotted rotors is a great improvement but pales in comparison to braided lines which resist expansion under pressure when braking and not temperature pressure as wrongly stated previously. When incorporated with trail braking it lopped 3 seconds of my previous time at PI. The pedal travel is too great without braided lines so you contact the accelerator too easy. My GTSt brakes better than my GTR33.

Another point. GTR front calipers on a GTSt without master cylinder mods can cause the rears to pinch resulting in a taily car under brakes with too much pedal travel, even with ABS and I really didn't like the setup at all on cars I've driven.

Geoff, when you say the braided lines made a huge difference are you comparing to 10 year old rubber lines?

We put brand new rubber lines in the race car (braided not allowed at targa) and it also made a huge difference. My guess is there is minimal difference between new rubber lines and braided lines

Another point. GTR front calipers on a GTSt without master cylinder mods can cause the rears to pinch resulting in a taily car under brakes with too much pedal travel, even with ABS and I really didn't like the setup at all on cars I've driven.

R32 GTR calipers have the same internal volume as R32 GTST, R33 GTST, R34GTT so shouldnt cause a problem with master cylinder sizing.

Also the slots on the new DBA are different top what i got...as mine were some of the first 324mm DBAs to come out so you wont find many slotted ike mine these days

Still a 4% (from memory) increase in radius with rubber over braided which results in quite a large pedal travel when the total volume is tallied. The GTR and auto GTSt feels like pressing a sponge in comparison.

Now a clever business would develop braided teflon lines with an OEM look rubber sheathing....... But not everyone will waste a massive sum of money entering Targa Tassie.

From the Maltech site http://www.maltech.com.au/brakehoses.html

Why would you not change when circumstances allow?

Facts about Rubber Brake Hoses :

1. The average good working life of a brake hose is six years.

2. Brake hoses deteriorate from the inside as well as the outside.

3. Moisture is absorbed into brake fluid systems through rubber brake hoses.

4. Contaminants in brake fluid act abrasively on the inner wall of brake hoses.

5. The brake hose reinforcing fabric deteriorates through expansion and moisture.

6. High operating temperatures contribute to the deterioration of rubber brake hoses.

7. The brake hose inner diameter swells with age therefore restricting flow.

8. Generally all rubber brake hoses on a vehicle deteriorate at the same rate.

9. So all hoses should be replaced if one is found to be faulty!

Also Roy is correct. Busted arse old 32 GTR's have an almost identical caliper to 33 GTSt on the front which suits a wider rotor. I was of course discriminating and thinking of Brembos which are a step backward if only half done, but rarely do full sets come available. A full change up will cost about the same as a decent AP kit so why bother.

I've still witnessed similar accelerated wear on the outer area of the discs on track cars for DBA's with the silly reverse slot. I have DBA's on the GTR but will get rid of them when I recover financially from my seat buying flurry.

Coming together nicely there Azzurra

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...