Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey im looking at getting rid of the factory clutch fan on my 33 and upgrading to a pair of thermo fans. Just firstly interested in what size i should get? i was thinking get duel 14" fans and have them hooked up to ignition.

Anyway my second question i was just thinking is pretty stupid but anyway. Would a pair of thermos be any use on a FMIC. i would can see it most probably wouldnt be as its right in the front of the car always getting air through but what about on idle. would it make any different keeping air going through say when your at the lights or something? just a thought. :worship:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/
Share on other sites

best to have them hooked up to a switch that comes on at a certain temp. i have mine set to come on at 83deg and turn off at 80 so they only come on if im sitting at traffic lights for a while or something.

thermos on a cooler would be kinda pointless... you need a cooler because turbos heat up the air when it is compressed. sitting at a set of lights theres no boost so no heating of the air.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2127583
Share on other sites

Looking at the specs on the Davies Criag website. The 14" pumps 480L/s and the 16 pumps 1000L/s...

So, 2x14" Fans dont do the job of 1x 16".

However, the 2x14" would cover more space on the radiator, and may cool better for that reason...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2146510
Share on other sites

Many people recommend you keep the stock fan but if you must go thermo then get one 16" rather than 2 12's. I'm not sure 2 14's would fit anyway.

The only other reason I can think to have a thermo on your intercooler would be if it was a stocker and you used it to cool the thing down at the lights before you take off but after you just boosted. Not much use but that's all I can think of. There are plenty of better things to spend your time and money on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2147501
Share on other sites

Thanks for your help guys.

Yer that was the thing i was thinking about with the thermo on the cooler say if you stopped at lights it would always still be putting air through the core.

Might look into 1 16" put it on one side of the radiator and possibly a smaller fan on the other half which would fit.

Although 1 16" thermo would have better cooling capabilities then the factory clutch fan wouldnt it?

And also why many people say not to use a thermo? I thought it was a bit less strain on the motor and would provide better cooling?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2147542
Share on other sites

mate uses 2x12in fans on his rb25, works fine. using a thermo switch off the ignition so the fans only come on for bout 8 secs at idle.

i'm using 1x10in and 1x12in on my rb20 (in a 180sx) running straight off ignition and it stays just under halfway on the dodgy stock temp gauge.

another mate has 1x16in davies craig fan. it sucks alot of air and at idle only stays on for a few seconds. only thing is it uses so much power the motor struggles to idle. he has it running straight off a thermo switch so it has the added wank factor of staying on after the car is turned off.

in my opinion twin thermos are more efficient than one due to the greater surface area

what ppl say bout a standard fan bein better than thermos is in most cases refered to as without a shroud where the heatsoak of the engine negates the effect from the bigger fans

Edited by rb20inside
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2148648
Share on other sites

I plan tu use 2x12" to my rb25det. 1 direct to ignition switch & another 1 to thermo switch with individual relay...any comments on this method?

so when you have 1 to the ignition switch you mean it will come on as soon as you start the car????

if thats the case then i wouldnt do it. The car needs to reach a certain temperature before it runs safest. having a fan run as soon as it starts (on a cold start) would slow this process down. i reckon just have them both to the thermo switch would be best. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2149360
Share on other sites

Also there's no point in running the fan when the engine is off unless you also have an electric water pump running to circulate the water otherwise you are just cooling the radiator and nothing else.

It has been proven and I believe stated earlier in this thread that 2x12's DO NOT pull as much air as one 16".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2150509
Share on other sites

so when you have 1 to the ignition switch you mean it will come on as soon as you start the car????

if thats the case then i wouldnt do it. The car needs to reach a certain temperature before it runs safest. having a fan run as soon as it starts (on a cold start) would slow this process down. i reckon just have them both to the thermo switch would be best.

I agree with u rice_me_up.

Engine must run with certain temp. so, wich one more efficient 2x14" or 1x16" ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2150883
Share on other sites

Ok then:

........................................2x14"........1x16"........Which wins?

Weight...............................3kg...........3kg..........Nothing in it

Amps needed......................22.............19...........16"

Litres of air moved while

sitting still..........................1000.........1000..........Nothing in it

Litres of air moved at

40P of inlet pressure............780...........850...........16"

What I don't know is why they flow less once you are moving, perhaps it's a relative thing. Ie; they don't count the air the would have gone through anyway.

I think the decisive factor here is power consumption. Use more power, put more load on the engine, robs it of power and uses more fuel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2151125
Share on other sites

I have been toying with this idea for quite some time.

Is there a big enough benifit of changing to Thermo fans?

Does anybody have the fans hooked up so that in normal driving they don't come on at all until about 85 degrees?

Is anybodies cooling system efficient enough to control temperatures without a constantly running fan?

My old VN Commodore V6 never had a clutch fan, and it did perfectly fine......

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115581-thermo-fan-uses/#findComment-2151398
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...