Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the really handy guide there,

But unfortunately aside from the melted springy bits. This was also the result of it not functioning for me.

minip1090633lz7.jpg

Has anyone ever come across this? I'm definitely in need of a whole new switch assembly and a new plug bit.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nasty as.. Mine wasn't that bad but much more and I would have had to replace it.

The plastic was browning and dropping in area's; some of the connectors were slightly black.

I've got mine off the road doing a few bits at the moment. The battery is out and the loom wide open.

Its a silly setup.

L & R headlights (high and low) run off 1 15amp fuse each; the wires run from the fuse to the switch then from the switch all the way back to the head lights.

So for me its.. Snip the wires that return from the switch use that to trigger a relay and then from relay join back in to the std loom that runs to the headlights.

I've got a pair of relays with fuses incorporated so no need for additional wiring etc. + They fit in the 2 empty spots within the fuse box :D

  • 11 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Hi Guys, Sorry to bump a thread that is a year old but I thought this is probably the best place to put this question. I've purchased a 5-Pin Narva 12V 40A Relay with Diode protection (P/No. 68032) to upgrade my headlights wiring loom and have attached a diagram of the schematic (pictured at the top of the relay). post-73235-1275674459_thumb.jpg

My question is which pin is the relay switching input (12v) and which pin is the relay switching output (ground) on this type of relay?

I would normally connect switching 12v to pin 85 and connect ground to pin 86 (as the diode arrow is facing the way the current travels) - but what is throwing me off is Narva's addition of the little positive (+) sign on pin 86 side. The relays are only $8.80 each but i'd rather get it right the first time and not blow the diode unnecessarily so any help would be much appreciated!

Edit: Sorry Mods, I just realised this was in the Tutorial/DIY/FAQ Forum - feel free to delete this and move to the relevant section at your discretion please.

Edited by Dioscorides

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
  • Create New...