Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have a R34 GTT and have noticed a rather flat spot between 5500rpm and 6000rpm when flooring it in gear.

Its not missfiring I dont think, and it doesnt pop or stutter, it simply doesnt accelerate as hard in that rev range. You feel the power kinda just drop off, but then pick up again after 6000rpm.

I noticed that this has only happened since I put on the full turbo back exhaust (spit dump, cat etc). Even before I put on the pod, it was pretty much the same. Last dyno run, boost was at 10psi. boost increase to 10psi is only because of the exhaust increasing boost, I have not played with boost at all.

Is this rich and retard? which is causing the flat spot?

I currently have NGK copper plugs in there, gapped at 1.1mm, heat range 6.

SydneyKid recommends 0.8mm gap at the same range to fix the problem.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Edited by nuffsaid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115661-flat-spot-around-5500rpm/
Share on other sites

I cannot seem to find heat range 6, 0.8mm, platinum plugs for the RB25DET NEO.

I would rahter get platinums to avoid changing the plugs often, its a pain changing them on a RB.

Note: boost increase to 10psi is only because of the exhaust increasing boost, I have not played with boost at all.

What you do is get your normal plugs (or the existing ones) and get some feeler gauges and gap them down to .6 or .7 (or .8 but i have used .6) and that may fix the problem.

you would be running more boost with the free flowing exhaust and your boost would be putting out the spark. Common problem.

I cannot seem to find heat range 6, 0.8mm, platinum plugs for the RB25DET NEO.

I would rahter get platinums to avoid changing the plugs often, its a pain changing them on a RB.

Note: boost increase to 10psi is only because of the exhaust increasing boost, I have not played with boost at all.

Are there no such iridium/platinum plugs though that come pre-gapped, I want to go for this option coz it will mean I wont have to replace my existing plugs for a long time.

Common problem, thats good then, hopefully a plug change will fix it, thats IF I can find em! ahah

I've got news for ya dude... in a stock ECU'd skyline, copper, iridium, platinum, gold or whatever is going to foul up just as quick as one another.

Copper is also a better conducter of electricity than the other options.

if you had an aftermarket computer and your a:f ratio's were tuned to be spot on, then you wouldn't have fouled plugs as often, but at 10psi on a stock ecu on an RB motor, you will find that once boost is on and ecu goes out of closed loop cycle, you're a:f ratios are going to go waaaaaay south.

and they are going to get fouled up.

What I did was use copper plugs at 0.8mm.

when I was putting the engine bay back together, I left the coil cover off.

now All I have to do to change plugs is remove the cros over pipe and bov attachment and I'm ready to remove the coils and plugs.

This is on an RB20 but same deal for you.

plus you have that other engine cover on the NEO which I'd leave off too.

better cooling for the coil packs anyway.

Fair enough, I guess my AF ratios are gones now aye. And now that they are, it means fouling of plugs right? Well since my car will foul plugs more easily now, I guess theres no point in platinum.

I was under the impression that my plugs arent being fouled so figured that platinums were a good way to go.

Even coppers for an RB gapped at 0.8 are hard to come by right? self gapping it is then

Fair enough, I guess my AF ratios are gones now aye. And now that they are, it means fouling of plugs right? Well since my car will foul plugs more easily now, I guess theres no point in platinum.

I was under the impression that my plugs arent being fouled so figured that platinums were a good way to go.

Even coppers for an RB gapped at 0.8 are hard to come by right? self gapping it is then

no there are some already 0.8mm... I don't remember the number though..

but the spark plug gap feelers (I think that is what they are called) are only about $30 from supacheap I think.

they look like a swiss army knife but each blade is a feeler of Xmm thick..

you just tap the plug gap closed and keep feeling it till the designated feeler touches both sides of the gap and that's it.

I think your plugs should be gapped to 0.8 and Iridiums are the new platinums and you can buy them already gapped to 0.8.

As others have said you can gap your current plugs down.

As for fouling your plugs straight away... hmm I don't think so. Yes your car will be running richer but it is not going to foul the plugs unless something else is actually wrong with the car. Don't go buying copper plugs for that reason.

All that said, I don't think this is your problem. Assuming you are right when you tell us there is no stuttering or misfiring type behaviour, this is R&R and there is not much you can do about it except get a piggyback ecu like a SAFC or an aftermarket one like PFC.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...