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what plugs are you running, and also what gap, try 0.8mm and see how that does, if not go to 0.7 and then 0.65mm.

Mine ar at 0.65 as when it gets dam cold here in tas, the air is so dence, the mixture is very hard to ignite, and my coils suc

Even with splitfires Im running .8 gap as I still got missing at 1.1 (indicating possibly ignitor or something else?) Generally only after Ive babied it around for 50kms so it could just be that the plugs are fouling up. On a cold night it runs really well.

ok got some different coils.

Still have the miss firing problem.

Are they still the VN coils? VN owners look for replacement solutions because of their poor performance on an NA engine, they wont ever work well on your motor.

Edited by Rolls
  • 3 weeks later...

iv been lookin into this and by the looks of the au coils all 6 and built into the one unit? iv been lookin round on ebay n can u use any type of coil? i understand how it works but dont understand the wiring side of things.. could you remove the coil pack loom n make a new one from scratch?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-MSD-HIGH-VIBRAT...1QQcmdZViewItem]coil system[/url]

in the link can this be used or way off? is that to run all 6 or do you need one for eash cylinder?

i find this abit confusing but im very keen to get my head around it n get it workin good

thanks

Edited by 2gceffy
my pricing is brand new leads and coil pack through repco but at mates rates..

pfft ford.. who would want a ford part on there car.. lol its bad enough we have mitsi parts running our engines

Give me a ford TYPHOON any day smoke back nearly all our cars

VN coils are known to be shit.

Use a VP coil pack, its what is recommended when replacing coils on ones VN dungadoor.

Fords better than Holden anyway. Holdens 'feel' cheap and rattle after a few kms. :)

The VP coils really do throw out a fat spark, I've seen one that I was testing jump ~6cm's and it was fat as, I could hear the crack.

Has any one ran these VN/VP coils at high rpm 7000-8000rpm with decent boost?

  • 3 weeks later...

Hay guys, i have all my bits now, just need the Coils, whats better to use.

AU S1 Coils.

VN Coils or

VP Coils.

I am also using a S1 ignitor for an R33. Mine is a S2. I have made a plug that goes form S2 loom to S1 ignitor and onlt the coils.

I hope this works, i would hate to spend money and get nowhere.

cubes i regulary run the r33 using the vn coils to redline running 13.5 psi gapped plugs to 75thou.I dont no if thats the sort of figures ur after but it has missed once when the plugs where at 1.1 I will be upgrading the vn coils with msd shortly

So which to get. You see mine is a S2, so i got the ignitor, but it is going to cost me another $90 for plugs to make up a harness between the S1 ignitor and the S2 loom. So all up looking at close to $300. Now i think it might be easier to get splitfires.

i hav done 2 wasted spark conversions 1 using a vp coilpack into an rb30det and a mitsubishi diamonte v6 into my rb20de.

at first they both went like shit on a stick there was a huge diff in acceleration and the idle was mint.

as far as i know the mitsi alternative has not relly been tried but it cretes a huge spark it manager 2 jump out of the ht lead thru another 3 cm to the plenum so thats about 6cm in total.

but after about 3 weeks the rb30 stopped makin spark all together when it was taken 2 the tunors he said that it was because the r32 igniter was not compatible with the waisted spark and the charge times are diff so as a result we had been over working the igniter this resulted in the link ecu needing rebuilding and a new igniter out of a mitsi or holden needing 2 be rewired in its not yet back from the tunor but il keep u updated.

now for mine. the rb20 didnt give me any trouble until all of a sudden it stalled when i left it at idle n it refused 2 start there was full battory but it would only start when i pushed it once i got it going it didnt give me any trouble till the next day. it started first pop but on my journey i pulled over and left it idling again when it stalled it would not start under the battory and i reset the ecu several times. that night i towed it home, i tow started it a couple of times on the way home and it would only idle and not rev the minuit i touched the accelerator it would start missing and then stall unless i quickly pumped the pedal. since i got it home it will idle and start under battory but still not rev i have restored the factoy coils and that didnt fix it i also tried replacing the afm i hav the hunch its the ecu and will be replacing that soon 2 c what happens.

im prety sure the rb20's problems are a result of the ignition mods but if any1 can can prove me wrong i would be quite gratefull

the rb30's problems are deffinetely a result if the coil pack mods

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