Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well today I had my car at a clutch specialist to have a $30 part fixed (release bearing and some sort of spring ??). Typical visit to a mechanic, quoted $280 and walked with a $689 hole in my pocket. (Got a good deal coz the fitter was a customer of the company I work for and I told him if he treats me bad i'll cancel his dialup account muahah).

Turns out that while they were replacing this $30 part they noticed that the standard clutch was completely warn through and advised that I get a new clutch fitted while its all apart. I'm still abit sceptical over it all coz the original clutch was absolutely brilliant, infact i dare say the feel of it was the first thing i noticed when test driving the car and was the icing on the cake for the reason of my purchase. I agree'd to that so got them to replace it with an "easy to use" clutch.

The clutch that ended up being fitted was a Daikin Exedy Organic Performance Clutch and I bloody hate the thing. I'm not sure if im just a crap user of a clutch or if my old clutch was so warn that it wasn't working properly in the first place and I became so used to it being like this but man I stalled the car 3 times just trying to get out of the carpark :D

Before I could park my car in the garage (uphill driveway) without even touching the accelerator just by using the natural pull on the standard clutch, but now I have to give the thing about 1,200rpm just to move the car and about 1,500rpm + a bit of a slip to get the car relatively smoothly off the line.

The first time I changed gears (from 1st to 2nd obviously) I released the clutch like normal and nearly put my head thru the windscreen (slight over exaggeration). The whole car just rocked forward from the pressure of the clutch. Same can be said for when changing down gears..... forget using brakes the clutch pulls the car up better whilst putting my neck out of place, why would I wanna use the brakes for! I found that if I let it out slooooooowly it was much smoother but obviously nowhere near as perfectly smooth as the standard clutch :(

On the way home I drove the backstreets so I could play around with it alittle bit. I did 2 launches from 2,000rpm and man when you get the timiring right (of releasing the clutch matched with enuff revs) its a bloody slingshot its wicked. The car just launches with a squeel of my tyres and then just axel tramps (im getting that fixed next week with new rear shocks and a better setup).

Sorry if im babbling abit but I have no idea about cars and im still trying to work out if I like this thing or not.

Im hoping that this new clutch will loosen up alittle bit over the next week or 2 ? I'm really hoping so because otherwise I can see myself stalling the car atleast 3x a day which can't be too good (Let alone the idiot driver factor when crusing around places at low speeds or over speed humps).

What do you think of the pic of my clutch below ? Is it really -that- warn coz I personally have no idea it still felt great to me. The plate itself is dead smooth with those little circle bits.

All I got to say is I hope I seriously get used to this thing or it loosens up abit.

Ben.

clutch1.jpg

clutch2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11574-new-daikin-clutch-fitted-today/
Share on other sites

Benm, that clutch looks shagged. I've got an Exedy and yes, it will 'give' a little after a few weeks. You'll also find you'll get used to it too; i stalled it the second i tried to move it from the mechanics. The bite-point is just so low, but trust me it is easy in traffic and you can ride it too... You will be happy with it; it holds on like a bastard when you're going at it - you'll love it then. And BTW, you got a good price for it :(

What do you mean shudder?

I've done 2 hill starts and I found that if I gave it the extra revs (about 1,500rpm instead of 1,200rpm) and released the clutch sloooowly (riding it a fair bit) it actually wasn't too bad, its only bad if u release slowwwwly for the first bit to get you moving then suddenly drop the rest as you get thurst thru the seat.

I think most of it is just nerves.

I'm going to drive it pretty heavily over the next 3-4 days so that I can try and get used to it quickly and also wear it in a little bit.

Don't worry Ben, you'll get used to it.

Take it easy for the first 500-1000km to let it bed in a bit, then you'll be right.

It's a big change though, I'd say your stock one was slipping a bit and that's why it felt really smooth and easy.

J

I just did a 15km round trip to get dinner and yup its deffinetly getting alot easier to handle considering the friction pressure point is about 1 inch from the floor. Even if i become lazy for half a second at a set of lights i know about it coz the revs drop and the car wants to move forward. I think im gonna have to throw it in neutral when at the lights until i get used to it.

I tried 1 launch on the way home on a flath stretch of nice smooth tar at 2,500rpm and mannnn it was awesome, 100% wheelspin but just awesome.

I think im inlove all over again (ssshh dont let the chick around the corner know).

benm, 2fardown or any1 else that knows about this clutch..

what is this clutch rated at in terms of hp or any other ratings? (like say if my car has 250kw@wheels, can it handle it?)

also is it a 9puck or something clutch? and how much to buy just the clutch?

thanks in advance!

Jay: The pedal is heavy, the first time i released the clutch it was so loaded that my foot nearly went thru my stomache hehe.

BATMBL: I can't find the clutch on the Daikin website coz it just doesn't load anything on the 'sports catalogue'.

Looking at my receipt though it cost me $418 Inc GST with $264 labour (that labour includes fitting a spigot bush)

All up it cost me $687.55

Jay: It should hold about 220 rwkW, and it is only marginally heavier than the stocker. If you are running as a streeter, with only infrequent visits to the drags etc i think it is a good solution.

BATMBL, a 9 puck or button clutch has sections on the friction surface cut out (see how the clutch benm posted above is complete all the way around?) This is to aid the instantaneous take up of the clutch, and it will hold on better - more force on smaller area. These clutches are a pain to use in everyday traffic. They are basically like a switch; in or out, no 'slipping' to aid you in slow take offs. If you are running high HP and can afford to, i would go for a twin plate instead; they hold on well and should be easier to drive in traffic etc.

I'm not sure exactly what clutch i have in mine (er, yes), but it's some sort of fairly heavy duty single-plate aftermarket.

At first it was a real bitch to get used to.. but now i'm pretty efficient with it. I'm not sure whether my clutch play has improved heaps (maybe, maybe not?), or the clutch has worn in a bit more.

I have a feeling it takes a while to wear in a bit (well maybe thats the start of wearing out :( but either way!), and you can let it out a bit more slowly and it won't just "grab" so much. The key is just to build the revs to about 2,000rpm, and then let the clutch out slowly, and not just floor it (unless of course you don't have cars in front of you). Although I'd say riding the clutch too much is going to wear it out, but what can you do in bumper to bumper traffic.

Even just building some of the right leg muscles up takes a bit of time I think, especially if you are used to an easy previous clutch.

  • 3 weeks later...
its a bloody slingshot its wicked. The car just launches with a squeel of my tyres

and

im still trying to work out if I like this thing or not.

are mutually exclusive phrases... read it again ben, then tell me whether you can put up with it? Also, this'll last you forever as you never turn the boost up!! ROFL!!!

:)

I like the clutch now coz its had over 500km to bed in. Feels almost normal except it gives a better 'sling-shot' effect.

Do I need to turn the boost up ? I only turn it up when I -have- to.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their reliability is proven, performance can be predictable, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...