Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well today I had my car at a clutch specialist to have a $30 part fixed (release bearing and some sort of spring ??). Typical visit to a mechanic, quoted $280 and walked with a $689 hole in my pocket. (Got a good deal coz the fitter was a customer of the company I work for and I told him if he treats me bad i'll cancel his dialup account muahah).

Turns out that while they were replacing this $30 part they noticed that the standard clutch was completely warn through and advised that I get a new clutch fitted while its all apart. I'm still abit sceptical over it all coz the original clutch was absolutely brilliant, infact i dare say the feel of it was the first thing i noticed when test driving the car and was the icing on the cake for the reason of my purchase. I agree'd to that so got them to replace it with an "easy to use" clutch.

The clutch that ended up being fitted was a Daikin Exedy Organic Performance Clutch and I bloody hate the thing. I'm not sure if im just a crap user of a clutch or if my old clutch was so warn that it wasn't working properly in the first place and I became so used to it being like this but man I stalled the car 3 times just trying to get out of the carpark :D

Before I could park my car in the garage (uphill driveway) without even touching the accelerator just by using the natural pull on the standard clutch, but now I have to give the thing about 1,200rpm just to move the car and about 1,500rpm + a bit of a slip to get the car relatively smoothly off the line.

The first time I changed gears (from 1st to 2nd obviously) I released the clutch like normal and nearly put my head thru the windscreen (slight over exaggeration). The whole car just rocked forward from the pressure of the clutch. Same can be said for when changing down gears..... forget using brakes the clutch pulls the car up better whilst putting my neck out of place, why would I wanna use the brakes for! I found that if I let it out slooooooowly it was much smoother but obviously nowhere near as perfectly smooth as the standard clutch :(

On the way home I drove the backstreets so I could play around with it alittle bit. I did 2 launches from 2,000rpm and man when you get the timiring right (of releasing the clutch matched with enuff revs) its a bloody slingshot its wicked. The car just launches with a squeel of my tyres and then just axel tramps (im getting that fixed next week with new rear shocks and a better setup).

Sorry if im babbling abit but I have no idea about cars and im still trying to work out if I like this thing or not.

Im hoping that this new clutch will loosen up alittle bit over the next week or 2 ? I'm really hoping so because otherwise I can see myself stalling the car atleast 3x a day which can't be too good (Let alone the idiot driver factor when crusing around places at low speeds or over speed humps).

What do you think of the pic of my clutch below ? Is it really -that- warn coz I personally have no idea it still felt great to me. The plate itself is dead smooth with those little circle bits.

All I got to say is I hope I seriously get used to this thing or it loosens up abit.

Ben.

clutch1.jpg

clutch2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Benm, that clutch looks shagged. I've got an Exedy and yes, it will 'give' a little after a few weeks. You'll also find you'll get used to it too; i stalled it the second i tried to move it from the mechanics. The bite-point is just so low, but trust me it is easy in traffic and you can ride it too... You will be happy with it; it holds on like a bastard when you're going at it - you'll love it then. And BTW, you got a good price for it :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What do you mean shudder?

I've done 2 hill starts and I found that if I gave it the extra revs (about 1,500rpm instead of 1,200rpm) and released the clutch sloooowly (riding it a fair bit) it actually wasn't too bad, its only bad if u release slowwwwly for the first bit to get you moving then suddenly drop the rest as you get thurst thru the seat.

I think most of it is just nerves.

I'm going to drive it pretty heavily over the next 3-4 days so that I can try and get used to it quickly and also wear it in a little bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't worry Ben, you'll get used to it.

Take it easy for the first 500-1000km to let it bed in a bit, then you'll be right.

It's a big change though, I'd say your stock one was slipping a bit and that's why it felt really smooth and easy.

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just did a 15km round trip to get dinner and yup its deffinetly getting alot easier to handle considering the friction pressure point is about 1 inch from the floor. Even if i become lazy for half a second at a set of lights i know about it coz the revs drop and the car wants to move forward. I think im gonna have to throw it in neutral when at the lights until i get used to it.

I tried 1 launch on the way home on a flath stretch of nice smooth tar at 2,500rpm and mannnn it was awesome, 100% wheelspin but just awesome.

I think im inlove all over again (ssshh dont let the chick around the corner know).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

benm, 2fardown or any1 else that knows about this clutch..

what is this clutch rated at in terms of hp or any other ratings? (like say if my car has 250kw@wheels, can it handle it?)

also is it a 9puck or something clutch? and how much to buy just the clutch?

thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jay: The pedal is heavy, the first time i released the clutch it was so loaded that my foot nearly went thru my stomache hehe.

BATMBL: I can't find the clutch on the Daikin website coz it just doesn't load anything on the 'sports catalogue'.

Looking at my receipt though it cost me $418 Inc GST with $264 labour (that labour includes fitting a spigot bush)

All up it cost me $687.55

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jay: It should hold about 220 rwkW, and it is only marginally heavier than the stocker. If you are running as a streeter, with only infrequent visits to the drags etc i think it is a good solution.

BATMBL, a 9 puck or button clutch has sections on the friction surface cut out (see how the clutch benm posted above is complete all the way around?) This is to aid the instantaneous take up of the clutch, and it will hold on better - more force on smaller area. These clutches are a pain to use in everyday traffic. They are basically like a switch; in or out, no 'slipping' to aid you in slow take offs. If you are running high HP and can afford to, i would go for a twin plate instead; they hold on well and should be easier to drive in traffic etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure exactly what clutch i have in mine (er, yes), but it's some sort of fairly heavy duty single-plate aftermarket.

At first it was a real bitch to get used to.. but now i'm pretty efficient with it. I'm not sure whether my clutch play has improved heaps (maybe, maybe not?), or the clutch has worn in a bit more.

I have a feeling it takes a while to wear in a bit (well maybe thats the start of wearing out :( but either way!), and you can let it out a bit more slowly and it won't just "grab" so much. The key is just to build the revs to about 2,000rpm, and then let the clutch out slowly, and not just floor it (unless of course you don't have cars in front of you). Although I'd say riding the clutch too much is going to wear it out, but what can you do in bumper to bumper traffic.

Even just building some of the right leg muscles up takes a bit of time I think, especially if you are used to an easy previous clutch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

hey,

where can i get one of these clutches from.

i am in melb. i want to use it in conjuction with a rb30et flywheel, as i dont have a rb25det manual one. will i be able to use the rb30et flywheel, with one of these clutches, and in a rb25det box?

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its a bloody slingshot its wicked. The car just launches with a squeel of my tyres

and

im still trying to work out if I like this thing or not.

are mutually exclusive phrases... read it again ben, then tell me whether you can put up with it? Also, this'll last you forever as you never turn the boost up!! ROFL!!!

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the clutch now coz its had over 500km to bed in. Feels almost normal except it gives a better 'sling-shot' effect.

Do I need to turn the boost up ? I only turn it up when I -have- to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right.  I'll try my best at a concise "bring you up to speed" on stuff that may be missing here - obviously open to questions or further input from others as relevant. Here's a datalog from a responsive turbo setup with electronic boost control being used a bit, to keep it simple I've marked 3 points of interest.  All of these charts are on the same time scale on the X-axis, so you can reference what engine rpm is doing in the top graph, boost and EMAP (exhaust backpressure) in the second graph, and turbo rpm in the bottom graph. A) The turbo gets it's power from exhaust gas, and pumping air takes work.  As a result you can't just spin a turbo with a fixed amount of exhaust energy and expect it to keep spooling - the bigger the turbo (ie, the more air it can push) the more exhaust energy you need to drive it.   The most obvious ways of getting more exhaust energy are by adding displacement, adding boost, or adding rpm - but as you add any of these the turbo also needs to do a bit more work so there is a big balance of these things needed to even get to your target boost and sometimes that's not even possible. What you can see in step "A" is that there isn't enough engine rpm or boost to reach the level we want, so this is where "lag" is.  The dyno run continues and rpm increases, which gives enough energy to increase boost, which helps spool  the turbine speed up even more - so you can see that the rate that the boost (and turbo speed) are starting to ramp up faster than the engine rpm is, so turbo is really starting to wake up as the graph gets closer to point B....   B) At this point we've been able to reach the boost that is actually desired at this point.   To stop the boost from going further than this the wastegate will open and bypass gas past the turbine, meaning it doesn't continue accelerating at the point it was before but instead carry on at a more progressive rate which matches what the engine needs.   The wastegate will have a spring in it which is rated to a specific pressure where it will start bypassing, but electronic boost control (managed by the ECU) can adjust how much pressure the spring sees in order to allow some tunability on how much boost the wastegate actually sees, and therefore how much exhaust it bypasses.   The tune in this case stops boost from ramping up HARD at around 21-22psi just before 4000rpm, then as the rpm continue it allows boost to continue up to around 25psi higher in the rpm.   You can see the turbo speed fairly steadily increases through the rpm to ensure it's keeping up with the increasing airflow demand due to the engine speed being higher and boost being pretty steady.   If the boost dropped off after a point then you may see the turbo speed level off or even drop.   C) You can see that despite the boost pressure staying pretty flat here, the exhaust pressure is steadily increasing and at this stage has overtaken boost pressure.   This isn't unusual, and is largely as a result of the increasing energy needed by the turbo to pump more and more air to suit the needs of the engine as it revs out further.   There are a bunch of variables in regards to how much back pressure there will be on a given turbo etc, but its one of the factors we manage when sizing and tuning a turbo setup.   When exhaust back pressure starts exceeding boost pressure you will eventually start seeing signs that the turbo is running out, the engine gets less keen to make more power and it gets harder to raise boost further. In this case it's a fairly acceptable compromise for the power level (around 630kw on a 3litre engine with full boost by 4000rpm), but you'd not want to push it a lot harder than this.  The maximum speed rated for the compressor wheel on this setup is around 125,000rpm so you can see its starting to get close on that side as well - I feel like this kind of illustrates some of the turbo related things we both decide on how far to push, and are also limited to how far we can push depending on the parts combination. Hope this helps more than it confuses things  
    • For that influx of Spammers we had I made no pic posting and no PM's for first ten posts. This is group based and I've manually updated @Beanie to the Members group which will open up the images and PM's. 
    • Thx for the reassuring reply. I’ve got above legal clearance  going in for roadworthy Friday… fingers crossed it’s keeping me awake  bloody nanny state 
    • I was actually going to try and dig out a datalog with turbine speed and EMAP haha
    • Wait until @Lithium posts a compressor map and tries to explain what's going on. There is a strong possibility that the OP lives in a digital world and is not comfortable with analogue machines. A turbo is just about as analogue as it gets, with plenty of non-linear behaviours added in on top. Most of us who think we know how they work are actually only getting by on 2nd and 3rd order mental models that abstract away from the actual physics and bring it back to the sort of kindergarten level concepts we can hold in our heads. This is important when you need to hold 10 such concepts in your head at the same time. You need to reduce the complexity of the individual concepts to allow them to be simultaneously held and manipulated. Too much complexity in the base models makes it very difficult to make them work with each other mentally.
×
×
  • Create New...