Changing Brake And Clutch Fluids

[patto1234]

Hey Ive tried searching and havent located anything that gives me instructions on how to bleed the brakes and clutch. If someone could give me a link to a DIY guide for both that would be great.

[siksII]

for the brakes:

on the rear of the calipers there is a rubber cover underneath which there is a nipple. you can fit a snapper over the nipple to turn it, so fit a tube that the old brake fluid will drain into onto the nipple, loosen the nipple then get someone to pump the brake pedal and you will see the old fluid come out.

order of bleeding is rear pass side, rear drivers side, front pass side, front drivers side. (furthest to closest to the master cyl.)

make sure u dont drain the master cylinder completely, keep topping it up as you go. same for the clutch you just need to find the nipple, and you will need a special spanner (fuel line spanner i think?) to fit around it and undo it.

Edited May 2, 2006 by siksII

[JimX]

Just a bit of extra info that may help - I loosen off the brake filler cap before bleeding. I don't know if this is necessary but I think it might put too much pressure in your system, or even just the cap if you don't. You can also get those one-man bleed kits which have a valve to stop air going back up, but having a second person is always easier (just not essential).

[patto1234]

Thanks guys. Will give it a go and see what happens

[Duncan]

check out the FAQ section I'm sure there is a thread on "bleeding brakes"

[Ghostrider]

The one man bleeder way!

Equipment:

Length of plastic tubing about 6mm ID, an empty bottle, clear preferably, old milk bottle, coke bottle etc, a rubber band and a piece of glad wrap & suitable spanner for cracking and re tightening the bleed nipple.

Method:

Attach the glad wrap by wrapping it around one end of the plastic tubing and secure it with the rubber band and place it in the clear bottle with a little brake fluid in the bottom, attach other end to bleed nipple, crack open bleed nipple by about 3/4 turn and begin pumping the brake pedal in the sequence given by sicksII until there is no visible air in the clear tubing. BUT REMEMBER NOT TO ALLOW THE MASTER CYLINDER TO GET BELOW HALF FULL

The attached glad wrap makes an excellent one way valve, so that air cannot be sucked back into the system when lifting the brake pedal.

Same deal with clutch.

[Ghostrider]

OH! I forgot!

Tighten the bleed nipple before taking the tubing off & to the next wheel.

[lwells]

The one man bleeder way!

The easier (if more expensive and less DIY) way: http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Everyone always says not to let the fluid in the master cylinder drop below half. Is this to protect the seals in the cylinder, or just to stop (a large volume of) air entering the system? How are you meant to change the brake/clutch lines without emptying the fluid from the cylinder? (Edit: And thinking about it, what about if you remove a caliper? Do you plug the line somehow so it doesn't bleed out?)

[Ghostrider]

The easier (if more expensive and less DIY) way: http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Everyone always says not to let the fluid in the master cylinder drop below half. Is this to protect the seals in the cylinder, or just to stop (a large volume of) air entering the system? How are you meant to change the brake/clutch lines without emptying the fluid from the cylinder? (Edit: And thinking about it, what about if you remove a caliper? Do you plug the line somehow so it doesn't bleed out?)

Are you serious or blonde?

Maybe you should have a look at your avatar and the comment you put under it.

[lwells]

Are you serious or blonde?

Maybe you should have a look at your avatar and the comment you put under it.

Wow, thanks for your helpful and insightful post. Its so great that you have such a sharing attitude.

My question, in case it wasn't obvious enough, was not why you shouldn't let it drop when just replacing the fluid, but was asking whether its necessary or desirable to keep fluid in the system when replacing parts of the system (ie. hoses or R+R'ing the brake calipers). If you don't want to decend from your ivory tower and inform others, that's fine, but don't try and belittle other people because you come across as a total spanker.

[Ghostrider]

Wow, thanks for your helpful and insightful post. Its so great that you have such a sharing attitude.

I'm sorry! but I, like probably everyone else that's read this thread, has assumed some repairs have been done and the system now needs bleeding.

Common sense tells you that once any hydraulic line is broken, or comes loose, there is automatically some % of air that gets into the system.

Replace any part, wether a simple brake line, or something more complex such as calipers or master cylinder, tell me how zero air enters into the system.

The guy asked for tips on bleeding, simple as that ...................... nothing about removal or stopping air getting in, just how to get the air out.

I thought it was obvious, as you say in your avitar!

[cowie165]

How are you meant to change the brake/clutch lines without emptying the fluid from the cylinder? (Edit: And thinking about it, what about if you remove a caliper? Do you plug the line somehow so it doesn't bleed out?)

Hi Lucien.

I removed all four calipers when I stripped and painted them at the start of the year. From what I learned it is the air being ingested by the brake system and it taking a LOT longer to bleed them properly. I didn't plug lines either. I suspended them and the drip of brake fluid eventually stopped. I tried taping them and plugging them but neither worked effectively. As long as you keep your foot off the brake pedal when the calipers are off it seems to be all good. I don't think that properly answers your question but I hope it is a point in the right direction.

As far as changing brake fluid goes, I did note the change in colour from green Mobil DOT4 to blue Castrol DOT4 as I bled the brakes. Using a $20 one-man bleeder took two goes to make the car driveable and my brother-in-law's assistance to bleed them properly. I found it too easy to introduce air into the system doing it solo. I can explain more via PM if you're interested.

Remember to bleed the ABS as well. First bleed the nipple closest to the headlights then the rear nipple.

@Ghostrider: lwells asked why should you keep the fluid above half-way in the master cylinder. You answered with why you bleed brakes.

[lwells]

Sigh. Assumptions are bad

My brake lines aren't broken, however I am thinking of replacing them with braided lines and reconditioning the calipers. Obviously I will have to break the seal of hydraulic system to do so and some air will get in (I never said otherwise!?).

I could try and minimise fluid lose and air intake by plugging the system if there is a sufficient benefit (ie. it will be significantly easier to repressurise and bleed the system and/or some damage can occur to parts of the system if they dry, like seals for instance). However, if there is no damage to be done and its just a question of taking longer to bleed when I refill the system, it seems to me it would be alot easier to replace hoses without fluid gushing everywhere so I should just dump it all.

cowie165: cheers

[Ghostrider]

@Ghostrider: lwells asked why should you keep the fluid above half-way in the master cylinder. You answered with why you bleed brakes.

Does nobody look at titles of threads anymore, or has it got to asking any question in any thread and it will be near enough.

"Changing Brake & Clutch Fluids, Can someone provide me with some DIY instructions"

was the title last time I looked.

What's it got to do with anything else?

Start another thread if it's something other than that, is what I get told often enough.

[wrxhoon]

The easier (if more expensive and less DIY) way: http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Everyone always says not to let the fluid in the master cylinder drop below half. Is this to protect the seals in the cylinder, or just to stop (a large volume of) air entering the system? How are you meant to change the brake/clutch lines without emptying the fluid from the cylinder? (Edit: And thinking about it, what about if you remove a caliper? Do you plug the line somehow so it doesn't bleed out?)

The reason for not wanting to run the master cil dry is because its much easier if you dont, if you run the master dry it means you have to first bleed the master, its messy and unnecessary, if you just want to bleed the lines or change the fluid.

If you just want to remove a caliper the best, easiest way is to get a self locking multigrip ( plastic is best but steel will do ) and lock it on the flexihose, that way you dont loose any fluid and its very easy to bleed .

If you have braided lines this is not possible so its wise to just block the hole on the pipe with something while you are servicing the caliper.

I hope that helps you in some way.

[cowie165]

Does nobody look at titles of threads anymore, or has it got to asking any question in any thread and it will be near enough.

"Changing Brake & Clutch Fluids, Can someone provide me with some DIY instructions"

was the title last time I looked.

What's it got to do with anything else?

Start another thread if it's something other than that, is what I get told often enough.

Dude being a smartarse just because you didn't read someone's question is unnecessary. As far as staying on topic goes, I'm quite happy that explaining why the master must stay >half full is on topic. Otherwise, you'd require a topic for "Where can I buy a one-man bleeder? Where is the bleed nipple?" and so on.

You seem like a decent bloke but feel free to remain silent if you think someone is going off-topic. Manners make the world go 'round.

[Ghostrider]

Sorry guys,

Your all correct in what you say, I've been snapping far to early lately and not just on this thread.

I think I have far too much going on in my head at the moment for me to responsibly say anything, so I best take some advice and go away for a while, till things settle down a bit.

There are some that know I'm not as young as most & probably the 2nd oldest on this forum and as such have elderly parents and one of them might not get out of hospital.

Thanks for not tearing strips off as you could, but I'm gunna go away for a while till my head gets back to something more normal.

[lwells]

The reason for not wanting to run the master cil dry is because its much easier if you dont, if you run the master dry it means you have to first bleed the master, its messy and unnecessary, if you just want to bleed the lines or change the fluid.

If you just want to remove a caliper the best, easiest way is to get a self locking multigrip ( plastic is best but steel will do ) and lock it on the flexihose, that way you dont loose any fluid and its very easy to bleed .

If you have braided lines this is not possible so its wise to just block the hole on the pipe with something while you are servicing the caliper.

I hope that helps you in some way.

Great, as always. Thanks

Cowie165: Thanks also

Ghostrider: No worries.

[cowie165]

Sorry guys,

Your all correct in what you say, I've been snapping far to early lately and not just on this thread.

I think I have far too much going on in my head at the moment for me to responsibly say anything, so I best take some advice and go away for a while, till things settle down a bit.

There are some that know I'm not as young as most & probably the 2nd oldest on this forum and as such have elderly parents and one of them might not get out of hospital.

Thanks for not tearing strips off as you could, but I'm gunna go away for a while till my head gets back to something more normal.

Wow, I must say 'hats off' to you for being such a gentleman about things! Quite unusual these days

Here's to your mum or dad recovering and quickly. For what it is worth, I can relate to your position.

Cheers.