Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

i currently have a Blitz Nur Spec 3" Cat back system on my car (Cat is standard), and im am thinking of going from the turbo back but i need a bit of guidence.

First of all, i read about split dump pipes and one piece front pipes, but that has just made things more confusing and difficult to make a decision. my main aim is to basically decrease lag.

What do you all recommend?

The car is pretty loud as it is with the cat back system, will it get louder if its a full system?

Im also after a hi flow cat, i hear catco is the best, do you agree?

Should i keep it all the same brand, if not which should i go for?

Anyway, please post your opinions.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116116-turning-cat-back-to-turbo-back/
Share on other sites

OK I'm going to jump in before everyone else crucifies you for not doing a search first....

Just go out and buy a BATMBL split dump and front pipe in one (dont get stainless its a waste).

And whilst you are there buy one of his metal cats.

You wont be disappointed. THis is the route I'll be going when I have the cash.

Do a search for the thread, its in the business traders section, with dyno results etc...

Rhett

As said above: Go with Michael's (BATMBL) split dump and front combined pipe in the Business Traders section. They are well designed and pre heat coated in mild steel. Definately choose the split/seperated dump if you want to reduce lag.

Regarding the cats, if you have the money definately go for the Metal Cats or the 5" body metal insert Catco cats. Otherwise get a 3" hiflow cat from Xforce for around $160 delivered - this is what I'm doing as I'm only aiming for around 200rwkw.

Noise mainly depends on your cat-back system. If you would like a quiet exhaust I'd advise adding a mid-muffler (box type) between the cat and rear muffler. Most quiet exhaust bolt on systems (Trust PEII, Fujitsubo Legalis R etc.) have a rear muffler and mid-muffler.

When I had my cat-back only on the GTIR the only increase in noise I noticed after adding a dump/front is that it was slightly more lower pitched, not quite more loud in volume. If you knwo what I mean.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...