My Quest For Torque

[NMD]

1) you want to stroke the motor, then put a larger turbo onto it?

Its kinda pointless. You'd want to leave the stock turbo on there.

2) Converting an RB26 to RWD? What you mean? Its a simple case of bolting it to a gearbox.

I've certainly have no hassle, neither have the other countless people.

Also to think about is the layout of the 1jz... its opposite to an RB

So in effect, its more hassle as you have to have custom exhaust piping made, etc etc etc etc etc.

I cant see how you can pass that off as a "less hassle" alternative

hey

1) the turbo will be under less stress than the stock item, so theorectically it should be more reliable? i would also imagine that a 2510 wouldnt be too much laggier than a stock turbo. but the extra 400cc would help the spool rate of the larger turbo quite considerably, so again it would only take mildly longer (about 250-500 rpm) to spool than stock. no? people say that the 2510 spools very quick on a 1.8L and 2.0L. why wouldnt it be quick to spool on a 2.4L?

2) about the RWD RB26. your right it is the opposite and the effort put in to put in the get the 1J would probably be better off put into making the RB26 RWD. but it was just a passing thought as a few people have done it into the S13 chassis and even the S14 (Izumida) and have been quite successful. so i thought why not in an R32. its a better engine than the RB25. but thats not the point of this topic. if you want to tell me other wise PM me. I dont want to fill this post up with random stuff that isnt even related to the topic of getting more torque out of the RB20.

[SkylineT04Z]

Seriously, i think your wasting your time.

you dont need downlow power in race applications.

since you want torque/lowdown.

get yourself a SR20 with a GT-SS

[bbe]

sr suks k so sont go there

supercharge the thing

evertone complains about thr rb20 but seriously it goes for wat it is

maybe buy another car

[Roy]

evertone complains about thr rb20 but seriously it goes for wat it is

maybe buy another car

I have to say i think that is the best option. Unless you reallty, really love your car, and/or you are very disciplined with the mods you are about to undertake and you don tget carried away...well modding things typically end up more expensive then first anticipated and you get nothing back for it...its twice as bad when you have to seek out the assistance of workshops who rightfullt charge what they do...modding cars can get expensive.

Ash...can you PM me who did your sump mods?

[Big Rizza]

Cheers for the response.

So many suggestions!!! I think a straight RB25DET swap might be the easiest solution... I could even keep the RB20 turbo for an even quicker spool.

Or maybe I should just drop in a blown 1UZFE?

Or twin-charge the RB20?

Or trade in for one of those single-turbo 1JZ chasers. They're ice

Anyways, it's time for me to think, do some research, check the finances, discuss with my mechanic... and break the news to my g/f that I'm not taking her to dinner and instead using the money to modify my car

Cheers all!

[R31Nismoid]

Troy - why ask who did it? lol

Race Pace job

[SkylineT04Z]

Why would you keep the stock turbo if you want grunt?

there is literally no balls with the stock turbo..

go and getyourself the new GT-SS atleast.

[dangerous_daveo]

Can I ask what might be a silly question. Understanding they are a full on race motor. But how do rally cars get their crazy torque figures, also considering they are apparently on a limit of 300hp... I mean they are 2L engines as well 4cly yes but still. Its BUCKET load more torque. Im quite happy with my RB20 90% of the time so it doesnt worry me. Im simply interested to know.

[TTT]

hi.. Captain tight arse here..

Can I give you an even cheaper option that will keep you happy for a while..

1.) $28 boost controller (Turbo tech) = $28

2.) block the bleed hole in the stock bov. = free

the boost controller doesn't have to increase your boost.. you can set it up so that the boost you have now stays where it is, but it keeps the wastegate shut for longer giving you a faster spool up.

the bov mod does the same sort of thing.. that little hole the constantly circulates air, makes the boost come on smoothly.. therefore slowly.

block it with a flat head screw and bolt the thing back on..

car will build boost even faster so you can actually have some low down movement.

$30 and 1 hour of your time will be worth it..

[Chris32]

I agree, but I'd be adding boost

14 psi, with one of those $20 valves and then go from there

I have spent 120,000kms driving my R32 in peak hour traffic and with a bit of a boost up, its much more drivable

Or go buy a auto R31 and use that as your daily, and enjoy 8000rpm of RB20 on the weekends

[R31Nismoid]

Why would you keep the stock turbo if you want grunt?

there is literally no balls with the stock turbo..

go and getyourself the new GT-SS atleast.

im failing to see how putting on a larger turbo is going to increase low-end response

Did you even read the topic?

[CEF11E]

I have been in an R32 with a RB20DE with a toyota 1ggze supercharger running 13psi.

It had a suprisingly large ammount of punch off the mark and good midrange power...

If you want to keep it cheap and can do the work yourself, Take off the head and get it decked to raise the compression to close to 10:1 and get some good extractors and a toyota supercharger. (sc16?)

It will only put out 170rwkw. but with a really nice torque curve. Then if you want more power to the ground at lower revs put an auto diff ratio in:)

http://www.rodshop.com.au/superchargerb30.htm

have a look at the link above and it might give you a few ideas

Good luck

[Roy]

I have a spare Rb20 bottom end, and this is something I have long thought of doing with it, only I have nowhere to store parts and play with cars as im in a unit these days. Buy a cheap R32 GTR crank that noone wants because of the oil gear drive.

Some cheap GTR rods with the cheapest “new” rod bolts I can find. And then possibly some bearings if required. The very minimal in way of machining to ensure the cranks swing clears the block and you have yourself a $600 RB2.15L with longer stroke and capacity for a little more torque. The only concern is what difference is there in piston height between the std RB20 piston and the aftermarket pistons that are generally used in the stroker RB20 kits????

Like I said I have a spare block, and head can be picked up for $150. It would be interesting, but any money spent on me playing with this would only take away from my gearbox fund so ….

[Munna1]

I saw a rb25det with gearbox for $3,200 in the forsale section of the forums the other day buy this install it and sell your RB20DET engine and gear box. This would be a good upgrade and if you deside you want more power down the track you have a gear box that will be able to handle it. RB20 boxes and a lot weeker then RB25 boxes.

[rob82]

Stick a modular motor in it with a 5.4L lightning positive displacement supercharger in it. SICK SICK SICK!!!