Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyways, so gauge in and it peaks at .7 bar @ 5000rpm(10.00psi), boost kicks in @ 3000rpm. Once it hits 5000rpm it drops off dramatically, at 6000rpm its .55 bar till at red line its at .5 bar (7.00 psi), is a drop that big normal? i can really feel it dropping back once i hit the 5000 rpm to. I have 3 inch turbo back exhaust, on it and will have a pod on in a day or two, was also looking at a $22 boost controller, but.. 2 psi is alot i spose. So is it a timing/maintenance/ecu issue? Any suggestions on what it can be, ill cry if its a turbo recon or something, im 19 and already owe $13000 on a car, cant afford to owe moree

Also another question, this thing develops peak kilowatt at around 6200 rpm right? if boost drops off after 5000 rpm then should i be shifting at peak kilowatts or once i start losing boost

thx in advance, when it comes to turbo's i know nutting :)

Edited by brainlessnoob

umm you would need to dyno the car to see when you get peak power, not peak boost before changing.

umm boost drop off is normal on basically std cars with front mount and controller..

pod will help once it goes in to keep that power. turbo back exhausts make it better, is it a split system?

ahh damnation, it just feels sucked so back once it hits 5k, u get pushed forward in your seat instead of back zz, thanks any wayz, if u reckon its standard'ish, ill try put it on a dyno with that $22 boost gauge, get em to adjust everything for me. Hoping it doesnt cost more than $150 to use the dyno though, im on a budget

my car holds boost fine.. hits 9.5psi and stays there until i let off, and then spikes to about 15 (my gauge is BEFORE throttle body) before going back down :O

and my post T/B is fine.. holds just the same then drops when i let off the go gas pedal :rofl:

Its normal for boost to drop off at high rpm with rb20s. The turbo is flowing more air and is getting outside its most efficient region. And the more air flows through the system (ie. at high boost and high rpm), the more the stock intercooler, piping etc becomes a resistance to flow, therefore more boost lost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...