Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, I know a lot of the questions I have are answered elsewhere, and all around the forums, but some of the info is contradictory, so I'll try to get something here, if it's good, it could be a sticky I guess.

Well, by the title, I'm in the process of importing an R32 GTS-4. I chose the '4 because I wanted something a little different, and with a lot of traction, without the GTR price tag or maintenence.

I'm using J-spec, and they seem reliable, is this so?

with the compliancing, I have to get new tyres anyway, so I was looking at adding new rims, will this need to be done after compliancing?

Any pitfalls I should look out for?

The car is stock, so I won't need to take parts off and replace them after, but if I want to add a few bits (turbo timer, rims, exhaust, alarm and paper air pod) should I get that done at the same time? Also, is this all 100% street legal, because the last thing I want is the big defect sticker.

I'm also sending an application to SAU to join, I've been using these boards for info for a while, so it seems like a good idea.

Any other hints or thoughts would be handy, especially if someone else has imported a GTS-4.

Have a great one guys.

-Koz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116329-so-ive-decided-to-import-an-r32/
Share on other sites

OK, I know a lot of the questions I have are answered elsewhere, and all around the forums, but some of the info is contradictory, so I'll try to get something here, if it's good, it could be a sticky I guess.

Well, by the title, I'm in the process of importing an R32 GTS-4. I chose the '4 because I wanted something a little different, and with a lot of traction, without the GTR price tag or maintenence.

I'm using J-spec, and they seem reliable, is this so?

with the compliancing, I have to get new tyres anyway, so I was looking at adding new rims, will this need to be done after compliancing?

Any pitfalls I should look out for?

The car is stock, so I won't need to take parts off and replace them after, but if I want to add a few bits (turbo timer, rims, exhaust, alarm and paper air pod) should I get that done at the same time? Also, is this all 100% street legal, because the last thing I want is the big defect sticker.

I'm also sending an application to SAU to join, I've been using these boards for info for a while, so it seems like a good idea.

Any other hints or thoughts would be handy, especially if someone else has imported a GTS-4.

Have a great one guys.

-Koz

First up, I used j-spec....so they're reliable :D

i can't really comment specifically on your compliance questions, as my car is a 33 and im almost certain the compliance rules are stricter for my car...

but yes, i did need new tyres, and they had to be on the stock wheels (which my car had anyway so that was easy enough). for my type of compliance the car has to be stock, so you wouldnt be able to have rims and pass compliance...

exhaust will usually put you over the dB limit, but it all depends on what you get...some 3" exhausts are still pretty quiet for example.

TT isn't roadworthy, as its illegal to have the car running without the key in the ignition....wether or not you get done for it is a different story...plenty of people have them.

alarm - good idea...might need to be black wiring etc if its for insurance....that'll depend on what type of policy you get and who its with...

pod filter, you're allowed 1 intake mod...so you can have the pod, OR a front mount intercooler, but not both (legally)

What scheme is the car being imported under? It makes a difference.

from memory, RAWS requires *stock* cars... and I am sure that if the rims arn't stock, they will be able to tell.

perhaps you could get the rims / tyres and borrow a friends (or if you are really nice, a forum members) stockies... I don't think you need a receipt from the new tyres (and if you do, I doubt it will say R17)

I imported my gts-4 under the (expired) 15 y.o. rule, and I used an agent, so any advice I have on the import process will probably be out of date.

try talking to J-Spec about this. if they are as good as people say, they should be able to answer your questions.

hope thats a little help

thanks guys,

I'll be going through a lot of it with Jspec, but I just like to get independant information, y'know?

1 intake mod huh? Pod filter or FMIC.... hmm.... I'll probably go the pod and add the FMIC later, just for cost sake....

it comes with the stock rims, but I just thought, while they're removing the tyres from the rims, may as well not bother and just put new tyres on new rims,

Oh, and it's through the new SEVS scheme.

So just to make sure I understand, I can get the mods done after compliancing, and can have a pod, turbo back exhaust (withing Db requirements), and strut bars, and still be 100% legal? Do I need engineers certificates for the pod and exhaust?

Other mods to look at later are mainly handling based, upgrade suspension, brakes, that kind of thing, I want the car to be a normal looker, and have a fairly normal note, but be able to handle really well, it's a gts-4 so it's not gonna be belting the Gts-t's anyway (well, unless it's wet.... then we can see....)

The one piece of rice I was thinking of doing was vinyl. I know, I know, big wank alert, but I've always liked blue racing stripes on white cars. What can I say, it's a weakness, kind of like how I prefer blondes with big boobs and the IQ of your average piece of furniture. I know they're no good for me, and I know it'll never amount to much, but I'm like a junkie who just can't kick the habit, although that seems to have changed now that my girlfriend is quite smart, and is also a champion rifle shooter, who's father makes guns. Yes, makes them (legally).

er.... that was a bit of a tangent....

er.. carry on.

once the car is complianced and registered you can mod it to your heart's content (whether they're legal or not is totally at your discretion).

For the car to come in under SEVS it has to be factory specification. Some compliancers are OK with aftermarket bodykits and suspension though... so it's always best to check with the compliancer that will be complying the car what they can and won't allow before setting off to find a car.

The guys at J-Spec usually do check if any mods on a potential car can cause issues with the chosen compliancer before going through with the final purchase.

Good to see you goin for an R32 GTS4... They rock my jocks!

  • 4 weeks later...

OK, the car is on it's way, but now I have to pick which workshop to do the compliance, I looked on DOTARS and came up with these guys:

JAPANESE SPORTS AUTO 34 091 929 270 PRESTON VIC AUSTRALIA

SEI MOTORS 90 096 964 546 DANDENONG VIC AUSTRALIA

SKYLINE AUSTRALIA PTY LTD 30 097 662 443 DANDENONG VIC AUSTRALIA

PERFORMANCE VEHICLES PTY LTD 23 103 540 905 BAYSWATER VIC AUSTRALIA

IMPORTED VEHICLE COMPLIANCE CENTRE 72 109 401 470 CRAIGIEBURN VIC AUSTRALIA

By name alone, skyline australia seems pretty good, anyone dealt with them? Or any of the others?

Hey Kozeyekan, I am using Japanese Performance Vehicles for my R32 GTR. My mate had his 34 GTR complianced by them and he's happy. Give em a call.

Yeah, I've heard good things about them. I emailed them last night, and got a reply at 9am this morning, the guy seemed straight forward, no bullshit sort, which I liked.

I still feel a little lost about a lot of the process though. I thought I knew what was going on, but it seems I was a bit arrogant with that.

Am I supposed to organise transport from the docks, or is that usually part of the compliance service?

Am I supposed to organise transport from the docks, or is that usually part of the compliance service?

I am pretty sure it's not part of the compliance process as my mate had to pay for a tow truck which was $100 as he wasn't available to pick it up.

You would generally arrange transport from the dock's yourself, get a 7 day permit from Vicroads that way you get to drive your car and see what it is like.

Edited by GTRGoddy
I am pretty sure it's not part of the compliance process as my mate had to pay for a tow truck which was $100 as he wasn't available to pick it up.

You would generally arrange transport from the dock's yourself, get a 7 day permit from Vicroads that way you get to drive your car and see what it is like.

No worries. Shall do that then. Thanks a heap.

Are you using SEVS? If so you were supposed to contact a compliance shop before purchasing the vehicle to:

a) Confirm availability of compliance plates

b) Apply for import approval

If you have done neither then you could be in for a rude shock when the car lands and you have nowhere to take it and no import approval to even clear it through customs.

Are you using SEVS? If so you were supposed to contact a compliance shop before purchasing the vehicle to:

a) Confirm availability of compliance plates

b) Apply for import approval

If you have done neither then you could be in for a rude shock when the car lands and you have nowhere to take it and no import approval to even clear it through customs.

Yeah, I was told this when I rang up for quotes, but Jspec forgot to mention that.

Jspec reckon it'll take about 10 days, so I've been franticly trying to get it all organised today. Should be OK though. I hope.

Touch wood.

Fingers crossed.

Rub lucky buddha belly.

Yeah, I was told this when I rang up for quotes, but Jspec forgot to mention that.

Jspec reckon it'll take about 10 days, so I've been franticly trying to get it all organised today. Should be OK

:D

The J-Spec website clearly says that "laws state that you must not ship the car until you have the import approval."

DOTARS also notes in several places that "It is strongly recommended that you do not ship your vehicle to Australia until such time as you are issued with an Import Approval. If you ship your vehicle before receiving an approval and your vehicle arrives before the application is processed, you may incur storage costs from the shipping company/freight forwarder. You may also be open to prosecution, as it is an offence to import a vehicle without an import approval"

Finally, the Import Approval form notes a turnaround time of 17 days from receipt of all documentation for issuance of an approval.

:blush:

The J-Spec website clearly says that "laws state that you must not ship the car until you have the import approval."

DOTARS also notes in several places that "It is strongly recommended that you do not ship your vehicle to Australia until such time as you are issued with an Import Approval. If you ship your vehicle before receiving an approval and your vehicle arrives before the application is processed, you may incur storage costs from the shipping company/freight forwarder. You may also be open to prosecution, as it is an offence to import a vehicle without an import approval"

Finally, the Import Approval form notes a turnaround time of 17 days from receipt of all documentation for issuance of an approval.

Yeah, thanks, but that really does not help me now.

From what I understand, Jspec have said that it was an extraordinarily quick time to put it on a boat. I paid for it and it was on the boat the next day. It must have been sitting on the docks already and the ship ready to sail. Apparantly the usual process is to pay, then get approval while it is being transported to the docks.

With this being my first import, I mistakenly assumed that this would allow me the time.

Although I am in the crap, Japanese Performance vehicles are the workshop I've chosen to use, and Sam there has been simply awesome. He knew I was stuck, and he said he'd do everything he could for me, even though it's technically my c0ck up.

I probably should have asked more questions, and learned a bit more about the process, but one thing I am noticing on the forums is that a lot of newbies get flamed for not seraching (even when they have, but have not found anything relevant) or for simply not knowing anything.

Also, it's quite hard to find details on the EXACT import process, maybe due to SEVS being less than a year old.

I THOUGHT it was:

1. buy car through importer

2.They organise transport to workshop from Japan

3. Workshop gets car ready

4. I rego it, and it's all champagne and blonde bimbo's as far as the eye can see.

However, it seems the process goes like this:

1. buy car through importer.

2. Organise RAWS workshop asap.

3. Give workshop details of car to organise import appropval.

4. Get car on boat.

5. Get car off boat and take to workshop.

6. Take car for inspection

7. Get rego.

8. THEN champagne and blondes.

Now. If this is not correct, please feel free to inform me on the steps I've missed. I have not done this before, and all the forum searching I have done brings up very little info on SEVS in regards to the exact procedures. A lot of data is on the 15 year old rule, and a lot of it is for links that no longer work. If a sticky could be made that outlines exactly what to do when, that would be appreciated too. (note: the Importing Faq, Questions? Read here links are pretty garbled. A timeline would be better, or a step by step guide. I messed up, I should have asked more questions, but still, I'm sure I'm not the only arrogant ba$tard here who thinks he knows more than he actually does).

Anyway, please let me know what I'm missing, if I've left out a detail.

Actually SEVS is nearly three years old now.

All the information I produced above about the importing process was from Vehicle Standards Bulletin VSB10 - (Importing Vehicles to Australia), which was linked straight in my FAQ. All the links in that still work so I'm not sure what you mean by garbled. That was all I pretty much went off when I started learning about the importing process.

Those steps you outlined seems to be correct, although I'd recommend BEFORE you buy the car to consult a RAWS. Like sewid said, it's no good buying a car in Japan, only to find out you cannot import it as no RAWS have available compliance plates. It's not that inconceivable a scenario - I arranged my for my gf to buy an import earlier this year, one for which there were only two RAWS at the time with plates. One said he would not deal with individuals, and the other only had a few left, one of which I took. By the time I imported the car he had run out, so if I had bought a car then, I'd effectively be stranded.

Like you suggested, by all means ask questions. I don't believe anyone who's asked a legitimate question in the imports forum has been shut down..

One more thing - since the J-Spec website even suggests that a car shouldn't be shipped without the approval, I don't know why it would have been done this way. But I know this. They're usually more than happy to explain the complete import process to you, and would have probably provided all the information necessary.

Yeah, I think it was the speed between delivery and boat underway that surprised them.

But yeah, I should have arranged comliance first, though I had the impression that it was supplied with the purchase of the car (I might have gotten confused witht he remainders of the old scheme, a lot of cars were sold with 15 year old import approval, and I've been looking for some time)

In the end, it was my fault for not asking enough questions, no doubt, and I've never said otherwise, but a sticky step by step post would be infinately helpful.

I'll write it myself after I've finished if no one else wants to.

And by garbled, I meant it was all in government speak, with very little examples. Maybe that's just me, but I find it easier to understand stuff when it has a direct application outlined.

Anyhow, thanks for the interest.

  • 2 weeks later...

^^ what he said

josh, if you've got your approval, give one of the boys in the office a call, they'll give a breakdown of who you need to talk to and what you need to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
    • I might have gone a little more South Efrican.  But this is off topic.   😍😍 FD 😍😍
×
×
  • Create New...