Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys many of us have done this before but no one has done a full DIY for it...

I did the research on series 2 skylines and found no one had documented the wiring...

So below is a summary on how too for Series 1 & 2...

What you need to complete the job (Both S1 & S2)

* Soldering Iron

* Solder

* Heat shrink

* Lighter or other heat source

* Screw Drivers

* 10mm & 8mm Spanners

* Black Electrical Tape

* Side cutters & or Wire strippers

* Can of coke and a pie (Optional)

SERIES 1 R33 (Standard 4 wires)

Start by removing your OEM afm from the engine bay.

1. Remove the air filter box and or pod filter

2. Disconnect the connector (plug) from the afm

3. Using a 8mm spanner loosen the hose clamps on the afm (turbo side)

4. Remove the afm

5. Cut the plug from the car (Cut it at least 10-12cm back from the plug, so u can use it again in the future.)

6. Splice all wires and prep for soldering

7. Cut small lengths of heat shrink and place over each wire

8. Use series 1 wiring guide below to twist together new plug harness and OEM harness

9. Solder joints (Must solder, no dodgey work)

10. Place heat shrink over joint and apply heat

11. Once all have been soldered and heat shrunk. Wrap the whole harness in black electrical tape.

12. Put afm back in car in reverse order from step 5

SERIES 2 R33 (Standard 3 wires)

Do exactlly as Series 1 steps above.

Except in step 8 use the series 2 wiring diagram.

OK the attachments...

Z32AFMWiringcopy.jpg

Now all you need to do is match up...

* signal with signal

* ground with ground

* power with power

For Series 2 owners you need to join wire 3 & 4 on the Z32 Plug and join it to the White with blue trace on the standard harness. So in english you are sharing both ground and signal ground as the same ground to the ecu.

For Series 1 owners please write down the colour codes on the wires as they come out of your standard plug so you know where to match them up when you cut the harness down further...

First series 1 owner to do this mod can you please pm me you wiring colours from left to right so i can make it even easier. Thanks Col

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116520-how-to-fit-a-z32-afm/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm sorry is this is a newbie question but, would you need to use a SAFC or some type of computer in order to run a Z32 maf? I know for my SR20 I had to use a SAFC to change the MAF values in order for my car to even run. Is this the same for the RB25DET?

  • 3 weeks later...

hi I'm anthony and I live in Britain (no idea why!) - I'm driving an R33gtst and this tutorial is exactly what I'm looking for thanks guys nice n straight forward an important tips like can o coke n pie too! :P

I have just one question ..I have an old style apexi SAFC like the one in the pic below:

liner_bit05.jpg

...my question is will I have to lean this SAFC off once i fit the Z32?

Other than a HKS induction and decat pipe my car is standard with original ECU too. I think it had boost controller fitted but its not there now.

The reason I ask is because my old AFM is on its way out, I have a Z32 sat there and I'm having an apexi PowerFC fitted at end of the month ;)

thanks alot

anthony

newcastle

uk

  • 1 month later...

Umm I assume the R34 is similar to the S2 R33? As my AFM is kaput, its practically undrivable atm I need to replace the AFM

If I attach a new z32 and do the soldering will the car be drivable at least?, or that the remap would be a critical factor to make it work.

Ive got a PFC btw.

  • 1 month later...
yeah the power fc had to be retuned for the z32, you need to take it to the workshop for that work.

Gained upto 410nm on torque and now 218rwkw on .9 bar

I know it has to be retuned after the AFM is fitted, but I want to know where and what in the Power FC menu to change a settings so that I can install the AFM / injectors / fuel pump before I drive/hobble/limp to teh workshop. Bah! Why hasn't someone translated the R33 PFC manual into English yet!

You will want to tow your ca if your doing a turbo, injectors & afm...

Thats too much to drive on... 555cc injectors will empty your petrol tank on a standard fuel map in under a half and hour.. :)

Not to mention the black cloud you would leave behind you...

Nice guide col :( Wish I had this when I did my swap lol

Anyway, as people have mentioned, there is a setting in the PFC to specify the AFM you're running, I can't remember where it is (Under Setting, then... argh somewhere in there lol) but once you find it, it's quite obvious. I swapped my AFM over at home then drove it to have the tune checked on the dyno. The PFC was very very close to the mark with the different AFM chosen, but did still require a bit of tidying up to get it 100% It didn't surprise me given the stock AFM had a bit of gunk on the wire I was never able to remove, but I was surprised at how close it was :(

hey guys

do u know if i could use a series 1 afm meter in my series 2 engine. like would it work n be the same procedure as mentioned b4 with th z32 afm conversion?

im only asking becasue my series 2 (3pin) AFM is gonnnne and i might be able to use a mates series 1 afm

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...