Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi, I not long ago installed a Z32 as the stock one decided to stop working (Stalling, hesitating and misfiring), I diagnosed through consult port cable. I didn't realise you had to retune, which is probably why it is missing on idle still. I was just wondering what are my retune options? I don't partially want to spend 1000+ on an aftermarket ECU until later down the track being non turbo due to p plates.

Thanks for any help in advance?

Edited by buster1996
  On 09/06/2014 at 7:42 AM, buster1996 said:

Hi, I not long ago installed a Z32 as the stock one decided to stop working (Stalling, hesitating and misfiring), I diagnosed through consult port cable. I didn't realise you had to retune, which is probably why it is missing on idle still. I was just wondering what are my retune options? I don't partially want to spend 1000+ on an aftermarket ECU until later down the track being non turbo due to p plates.

Thanks for any help in advance?

Best bet get another stock afm.

I'm surprised if even runs.

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Found this as im aboutto do a swap on mine

http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#35

What do I need to do when changing my Airflow Meter? When you choose another airflow meter to allow a large opening diameter or a higher resolution meter you need to select the unit from the [sETTING], [Airflow] menu and select it from the list. You should do this before you start your engine to prevent really unsafe mixtures and also to prevent stalling/bad idle. Once you have highlighted the correct model you have fitted to the car you can simply press [PREV] on the hand controller and return to normal [MONITOR] and start the car. It should idle OK (well hopefully) however this does not mean it is safe and ready to go. Selecting the correct airflow model simply loads the voltage ramp table into the PowerFC. This tells the PowerFC at what airflow levels the meter is reporing in its voltage range. You should have your AFR's checked with your tuner and a wideband after an airflow meter change to ensure its not too lean or too rich. If you need to drive a fair distance to your tuner or would like to run around for a few days on the new airflow meter without it being retuned/checked then theres a simple procedure you can follow

1. Let engine warm up and idle
2. Give the engine a bit of a rev in neutral and check to see if smoke comes out the exhaust.


3a. If you see *some* black smoke
-> Then its running rich (preferred) and it should be OK to drive around on light/low load, although your fuel economy will probably be terrible.


3b. If you see *lots* of black smoke
-> Then its running very very rich and you'll need to lean it out a bit. You can do this by going into [sETTING], [iGN/INJ] and then on the right hand side you will see INJ correction. You can then slowly change the ADJ value to a negative value in small increments. After a few adjustments give the engine a rev and there should not be as much black smoke. Repeat until there is a little bit but its not *lots* of black smoke.


3c. If you don't see any black smoke
-> Then its running lean or possibly too lean. Do the same procedure (as above) but add more fuel by adding or upping the ADJ value and after a few increments try a free rev. If you get some black smoke then you are starting to richen it up.


4. You should remember this value or write down the correction number used because if you turn the car's power off you must come back to here each time to put the value back in. This is because its only a temporary test mode and it should not be used all the time. You could also give this value to your tuner to give him an idea of how rich its running.



Source: Apexi Documentation

80m RB25 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 300ps (221kW)
80mm VG30 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 500ps (368kW)
90mm VH41 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 400ps (294kW)

*Output is calculated off of measurable air volume

Airflow Meter Adjustment Range
Using 100% as a base, the airflow can be adjusted from +50% (-50%) - 200%

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
    • Haha yeah I know, this is SAU after all, why are we talking about BMW's of all things!? I hear you on the 'don't have to worry about it' side of things. Having been fortunate enough to be have been able to buy a brand new motorbike or two...never really enjoyed them as much as I'd have liked as you worry so much about where you park it, will it get scratched, stolen, attempted theft, knocked over, etc...and yes dirty. Older less valuable bikes you can just go where you want and park it wherever and not really worry that much in comparison. And who cares if it gets dirty! Never owned a V8, and have had my eyes on VE / VF commodores for years but with their prices climbing so high, the M3 has come into focus more as prices are much closer than I've ever seen...is it a potential contender now?...of course need to factor in the S65 'maintenance' especially and like you said general M car 'tax'. One can dream anyway. But more on the reality front - did read the whole 330i thread as well and was a great read too, both threads enlightening as I've never even driven one of these cars! I do recall 330i didn't seem to have the same amount of issues for almost the same car (turbos and related differences notwithstanding)...perhaps down to getting it earlier in it's life so looked after better than the 335i? Perhaps so as your 130i has been good and quite similar, so finding a car that's been looked after well is the especially-crucial-BMW-first-step.
    • Nice. Dont worry about the time of not running. My current skyline hasn't run since I bought it. About 8 years ago.
    • It's also worth noting that I am heavily and unconditionally biased. I've had a lot of cars including some GTRs a fair while ago. I love my BMW's now a lot. They make no sense a lot of the time and the guys on here remind me regularly that I could get something else that does what I want better and cheaper. If you're going to take on an older BMW it's definitely a commitment. If you bail on it early you'll lose money and also the ability for it to put a smile on your face. Stick with it and it just gets better.  f**k I should get into advertising.  
×
×
  • Create New...