Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

this has been happening in my gtr33 for as long as ive had the car (about 9 months) an it hasnt got any worse an it doesnt really annoy me anymore lol i just get ppl who get in my car asking "wat the hell is that noise?" haha

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 years later...

hi all,

firstly..., no dash removal nessesary.

i have an r33 gtst, currently searching the net for replacement heater actuators (and the lack of).

ive come across this forum and found alot of the same problem. the following steps to remove...... as follows

#1- REMOVE GLOVE BOX AND UPPER GLOVE BOX COVER.

#2- FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, THE ENTIRE HEATER BOX UNDER THE DASH IS SEGRIGATED IN (THREE PARTS). HEATER FAN/ A/C EVAPORATER/ HEATER BOX...

#3- UNDO BOLTS THAT HOLD THE CENTER A/C BOX, (THIS YOU CAN SEE ONCE YOU TAKE OUT THE GLOVE BOX AND UPPER COVER) (ALSO IF YOU CANT SEE IT IT IS LOCATED BETWEEN THE HEATER BLOWER MOTOR) (WHICH IS TO THE LEFT OF THE WHOLE HEATER ASSY) (AND THE HEATER BOX TO THE RIGHT)

#4- YOU CANNOT REMOVE THE CENTER CARTRIGE COMPLETLY (UNLESS YOU DEGAS THE AC SYSTEM AND REMOVE THE AC LINES LOCATED IN THE ENGINE BAY ON THE FIREWALL) SOO.....

#5- LIGHTLY MOVE THE CENTER CARTRIGE AROUND UNTILL IT DEPARTS FROM THE MOTHERSHIP (THUS GIVEING YOU ROOM TO GET YOU ARM/HAND TO THE TROUBLED HEATER ACTUATOR) (ALSO REMOVE ELECTRICAL PLUGS TO COMPONENTS ON THAT SECTION FOR A BIT MORE SPACE).

#6- ONTOP OF THE HEATER BOX (TO THE RIGHT OF THE CENTER CARTRIGE) IS THE CLICKY MONSTER, PUT YOUR HAND UP THERE AND GET A M8 TO TURN THE KEY FROM OFF TO ON ( A/C MODULE ON ALSO) IT REALLY SHOULDNT TAKE MORE THAN ONE ATTEMPT TO FIND THE CLICKEY MONSTER.

#7- GRAB A 8MM RING SPANNER AND GO BY FEEL, (U CANNOT HAVE YOUR HEAD AND SPANNER IN THERE AT THE SAME TIME)

#8- THE LITTLE ACTUATOR IS BOLTED FROM THE TOP BY 2X 8MM (HEAD) BOLTS. AND ONCE THEY ARE REMOVED, JUST PULL IT OFF.

#9- JUMP ON THE INTERNET AND TRY AND FIND THE LITTLE F%%$$#$, ALONG WITH ALL THE OTHER ONES :)

BY THE WAY I HOPE THIS HELPS AS FRUSTRATING AS IT IS TO FIND PARTS FOR THE BEST CAR EVER MADE!! (WITHOUT BUYING THE WHOLE HEATER ASSY)
:

I had a constant clicking noise via air conduit flaps and propeller (on a BCNR33).

A quick fix by my panelbeater friend involved 3 steps.

1) Open up air intake option (ie don't have recirculation operating)

2) Spray high quality silicone down each vent through its thin stalk

3) Turn vacuum cleaner to blow mode (if available); but a compressor hose will do the same.

My clicking stopped for over a year > repeated the process before I sold the car

  • 2 years later...

Hi,

This thread helped me a bit so I thought to help you guys too.

Once you have removed the clicking box (I removed it without pulling the whole dash) it should look something like this.20170401_201317.thumb.jpg.eca825bb9cf7676a0a4614ab1d94619b.jpg

Theres small clips around that box. Try to open it carefully. I broke all of those and just glued it back together.

When you get it opened you should see this.20170401_201356.thumb.jpg.9ea6ecffb3a75bae075463884e9cd703.jpg

As you can see theres couple teeth missing from gears that are on the part with that arm.20170401_201407.thumb.jpg.6c12bbee7a6dcc41d5eb32e145bbe128.jpg

Next step you have to remove that bigger gear from the arm. Dont try to separate that gear from the axel, those are solid. 

I used tip of a knife to pry out some plastic inside that arm. I think you could also use a drill or something.20170401_201424.thumb.jpg.eedd21f717d24149f1143fa64226e4a8.jpg

Then I just used bended needle nose pliers to pop that arm off.20170401_201435.thumb.jpg.0405c7e2fda4fb482d0de21746203c73.jpg

Now we can aling those broken gears so that those broken parts will never touch other gears.20170401_201522.thumb.jpg.59f54d08b74a4d4c7d655367f3ec1b5e.jpg

Next I just used super glue to put that arm back. Remember to check that the smaller gear is working with whole movement of that arm. I think it has to be spot on so that broken part is not used.

Grease everything up and then put that arm on the same position where it was when you took it out so it wont grind gears next time you change ac mode.

Be careful not changing smaller gear position when closing that box.

Put all back together and enjoy no clicking sound and working ac modes.

 

- Jussi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The previous switchover point was 501mv. The stock value is like ~360. They now were idling at about ~880. The thing is, most people get a false lean condition. I am getting false rich conditions. This isn't a quirk of terminology, most cam upgraders get awful fuel economy because the O2's read false lean and add fuel - Mine are attempting to aggressively subtract fuel.
    • So... the whole idea was to upgrade the power of the motor from stock. The motor I bought with the gearbox had 'some' stuff done to it in the past, but it wasn't as well thought out/what I had wanted to do. The stock heads typically are a big restriction on LS's and need porting to unlock quite a lot of power. You can then go a bit silly with aftermarket castings to get more, aftermarket intake manifolds for a little more, and then porting those for more. <- We are here. Nobody in Australia really goes down this path (for some reason). It might* make 3kw or something more than doing things the tried and true path for 10X the cost. So that's probably why - I wouldn't even recommend it to people, the money was and is likely better spent on just CNC'ing the stock heads and putting a 6.3L stroker kit in. I didn't want to go down the 'normal' path and then think: But if I'd just done a bit more - I could have had a slightly better result. I assumed the heads were running out of flow and it always annoyed me - Turns out the previous installer advanced the cam 6 degrees so this is likely why it was coming on earlier and running out of puff earlier than advertised. The body panels were just lack of planning/no information on this anywhere on the internet and the fact they came out different was annoying. From test fitting the guard it appears I could have gotten away with GTR guards only, but I got the bonnet and raisers and everything else as well for a pretty decent package deal.
    • So you had a car that by all accounts drove well and survived track days, and that was looking great after months of being stuck at a paint shop. Some might call that a finished project. But you decided this is not quite right. So now the car does not run anymore. And the engine doesn't fit anymore. And the body parts don't match anymore. But, this is progress somehow. Greg, I think your subconscious does not like you and does not want you to drive this car. (I know I know, this whole escalation was not intended, but man, what a rollercoaster)
    • Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.
×
×
  • Create New...