Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Auto Gearbox

stocksy
 Share

Recommended Posts

stocksy Enthusiast

stocksy

Posted
Posted

i just bought a r3, previously i had a highly modded wrx, and need some assistants on skyline mods.. Finally i got sick of the power.. I want to know wat is he stock r33 auto gearbox capable of handling, i was thinknin of havin about 220-240 kw at the wheels... if possible i would love to keep the auto and not go to a manual.. Can someone please shed some light on this matter... and tell me if the gearbox is weak or strong enough for my power figures..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116698-r33-auto-gearbox/
Share on other sites
stocksy Enthusiast

stocksy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
about 250rwkw is a good number for the gearbox and you would be best to install a aftermarket transmission cooler

the lack of r33 auto compatible aftermarket engine managment would probably limit your ability to go over that anyway

Sweet as thats good to hear. . wat ya reckon a trans cooler would cost???? wat about the ECU. if i get a plug in apexi power fc, would that be compatible??

Fly_With_Sky Rising Star

Fly_With_Sky

Posted
Posted

trans coolers are not that expensive, a couple hundred. If you want to have around 240rwkw then the stock auto, even with a better trans cooler, will break eventually. Good auto shops such as MV automatics in adelaide can build you a tough auto box that is capable of handling 300rwkw. Do a search and see what you come up with regarding this.

Also, i believe Abo Bob (forum member) has rebuilt his r34 auto tranny, so it would be wise to ask him some questions as i think his power level is around what you're after.

As for the power fc, it will work but the thing is there will be no communication between it and the auto ecu (remember these auto's are electronic). Do a search regarding this as well. Some people are running their auto's with powerFC's and say it is fine.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...