Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just seeing who will be going to each event so i can choose which one i will enter.

Im thinking of going Supa nats to compete against The V8`s

I hope your kidding.....going to a full drag strip to compete in a round of the National Championship with computerised lights and timing system...or...race half track, no timing system, a rolling start and with "biased" people running/judging the outcome, started by some bogan waving a flag.

Go where you like, but the sport of high tech drag racing in this country needs support both in entrants and spectators.

Ill be racing at WSID.

Edited by DiRTgarage
I hope your kidding.....going to a full drag strip to compete in a round of the National Championship with computerised lights and timing system...or...race half track, no timing system, a rolling start and with "biased" people running/judging the outcome, started by some bogan waving a flag.

Go where you like, but the sport of high tech drag racing in this country needs support both in entrants and spectators.

Ill be racing at WSID.

Man i was only going there to do burnouts

lol

Any ways you have convinced me to get the cage ready for Compact attack so i guess ill be racing 2

Perhaps someone in the know can answer this, but what's the likely turn out of racers for this event?

I raced at the last Sport Compact event at WSID and enjoyed the experience (despite the fact I had car trouble!), but from a turnout perspective, of both racers and spectators, it was pretty dissapointing to say the least (which is pretty understandable given that 'stuff all' promo was done for the event).

...just hoping that this one will be a little better :)

This event is promoted by Ray Box and not WSID

Yes, I'm aware that Ray Box is 'promoting' the event which is great given his success with Jamboree, but what sort of actual promotion (i.e through media for example) is actually happening to attract spectators and competitors to this event?

Not having a go at anyone, I'm just genuinely curious...

Just to elaborate further on my post above, I think this event has the potential to be a success because it does have a lot going for it...

* It has a good naming sponsor in Toyo and therefore some decent prizes on offer which is a bonus

* Prizemoney should be a good incentive (for those who need it) to hopefully get a LOT of cars out there racing

* ProRWD is starting to get more competitive with Rotomaster's Camrydore set to challenge PAC's MX6 for outright ET/mph honors

* There's a lot of other stuff going on at the event (SnS, DB Sound Off etc) for those who aren't 100% obsessed just with drag racing

The thing that worries me is that I haven't heard a thing about the event through the media, haven't seen any advertising for the event, haven't got my usual mailout from WSID advising of the event and nor have I heard many people talking about it.

I haven't seen an entry list, so I'm not sure how many cars have entered (granted the event is still a few weeks away), I just hope there's a good turnout of competitors to put on a decent spectacle for the crowd.

I guess the point I'm trying to make is that this is a good opportunity for Sydney people to get into Sport Compact, I just hope the promoters really get out there (as best as they can) and make people aware of the event. Sport Compact is a great product, but it won't be a success if they don't get bums on seats and some good racing.

More info for those thinking about giving it a go -> SEE HERE :wub:

Flyers and posters started going up on friday night. Billy from SportCompactGroup was driving around sydney all weekend like a loony getting the word out there. From what I understand, expect radio as well.

I guess we have to stay tuned.

Adrian

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you checked the foam over the years? No deterioration to the foam from e85 mixing in oil? (assuming you're on E85)
    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
×
×
  • Create New...