Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was going to replace my rb20det with an rb30/25det but now I'm considering using an rb26 crank, rods and pistons in the rb25de motor that I bought for the head.

My reasons for this are that I like a motor that will still rev and my hks gt2530 and the std diff ratio should still be suitable and it will still look stock under the bonnet.

I've got all the bits from my rb20 buildup

2530 turbo, 3" turbo back with split dump and metal cat, fmic, sf coils, ap eng. pfc, z32 afm, gtr injectors, 040 fuel pump

I know this turbo is limited to about 220rwkw or so but it should make this with less boost than the rb20

I expect this motor would make full boost 800-1000rpm before the rb20 although I expect boost will start to taper off earlier by a similar amount.

Just a few Qs

What compression ratio would this combo give?

Of the stock cams are the rb20det cams the best or should I use the rb25de inlet cam with an adjustable gear?

If I use an r32 rb26 crank will the rb20det oil pump be suitable?

If I use an r33 rb26 crank what oil pump would be best to use?

Should I fit the piston oil squirters?

Any comments on this combo welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116774-rb26-internals-in-r32-rb25de/
Share on other sites

I was going to replace my rb20det with an rb30/25det but now I'm considering using an rb26 crank, rods and pistons in the rb25de motor that I bought for the head.

My reasons for this are that I like a motor that will still rev and my hks gt2530 and the std diff ratio should still be suitable and it will still look stock under the bonnet.

I've got all the bits from my rb20 buildup

2530 turbo, 3" turbo back with split dump and metal cat, fmic, sf coils, ap eng. pfc, z32 afm, gtr injectors, 040 fuel pump

I know this turbo is limited to about 220rwkw or so but it should make this with less boost than the rb20

I expect this motor would make full boost 800-1000rpm before the rb20 although I expect boost will start to taper off earlier by a similar amount.

Just a few Qs

What compression ratio would this combo give?

Of the stock cams are the rb20det cams the best or should I use the rb25de inlet cam with an adjustable gear?

If I use an r32 rb26 crank will the rb20det oil pump be suitable?

If I use an r33 rb26 crank what oil pump would be best to use?

Should I fit the piston oil squirters?

Any comments on this combo welcome.

RB26 crank rods and pistons will drop straight into an RB25 block. Compression ratio will be 8.5:1, same as it would be in a GTR. The combustion chamber volumes are the same.

All the factory RB emissions cams have very similar timing (between 240 and 248 duration) with almost zero valve overlap. There is no real point messing around swapping factory cams around. Either leave the cams stock RB25DE, or get some proper aftermarket cams.

The HKS2530 will give a very strong mid range and be very responsive, especially with the diff you have, but the turbo is a bit small for flat out power. It will be very responsive and torquey driving around the suburbs, I think you will be quite pleased with the result.

Oil pumps vary in volume only because of the extra oil volume required for the turbos at idle. Even an RB25DE pump would work fine in a GTR at normal operating Rpm. But if the idle speed was set very low, the oil light may probably come on. At perhaps 2,000 Rpm or above ANY oil pump is going to give full rated pressure.

The RB25DE pump will probably work fine with one ball bearing turbo, but idle pressure may be very slightly less than it would be with an RB25DET pump, or an RB26DETT pump. The ball bearing turbos require less oil flow than the older sleeve bearing turbos. Try it with the original pump, or get an RB25DET pump, anything else is overkill.

Oil squirters are good, but fitting them to a block that did not already have them is going to be a very expensive bit of machining work. I would either try to find an RB25DET block or a GTR block that already has them fitted, it would probably be a lot cheaper. Or I would not bother with the oil squirters.

My question about oil pumps was mainly to determine what pumps fit the r33gtr crank as they have a different drive collar for the pump gear.

Do I need an r33gtr oil pump or will an r33 rb25det one fit?

I intend to close off one of the oilfeeds to the head and open out the oil return galleries as suggested by SK and others but I need to find out more details about this mod.

It should lessen demand on the oil supply so pump volume is probably less of an issue.

With regards to the cams, being an r32 rb25 head the rb20det cams will fit but I read the rb25de inlet cam has longer duration but less lift (I think)

I think because they were designed for a turbo application the rb20det cams would be the safest bet but I'm wondering if the extra inlet duration could be beneficial if dialled in correctly.

Here is a list of all the various Nissan factory cams. The differences are only slight between all of them, they all have to pass strict emissions, hence there is not a lot that can be done by the factory.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html

Replacing a cam with another that has only five degrees more duration and maybe an extra millimeter of lift will hardly make any noticeable difference.

Going from 240 to 262 degrees is the sort of worthwhile improvement you need.

Cannot answer for sure about the oil pump drive, but I believe after R32, the later ones are now all the same.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this thread is quite old, but I found it, it helped me, but I also wanted to add my experience and troubleshooting finds to the chat for others. I have not been able to open the rear hatch of my 97 Stagea for several months. Figured it had just really sealed itself up over the winter and I would just get to it eventually. Well that day was yesterday. Some time ago, I noticed my battery was going flat all the time. It was frustrating. Then one quiet night in the garage, I could hear and ever so slight humming / grinding noise coming from the back of the car. It was like a really quiet popping sound or something like sand in a very low speed blender. I took off the panels in the back and noticed the noise coming from the auto close motor, so I unplugged it and the noise stopped. And the auto close was disabled. Well, fast forward to yesterday, I tried all the tricks with power and fuse and lock and unlock and I still could open the damn hatch. So I took off the panels from the inside and found the auto lock had engaged and was stuck in close position. When plugging and unplugging the fuse, I could hear the relay clicking. So I plugged the autoclose motor back in, and the damn thing let go. And immediately started making that grinding sound again. This time, instead of just unplugging the motor, I pulled the fuse, thus depowering the relay entirely. I don't have the autoclose feature now, but at least I can open the boot and not have my battery being sucked dead all the time. Not sure what caused the motor to latch when it was unplugged from the system, but I am pretty sure it won't cause any more problems now.  If anyone has a lead on a new motor, please let me know. It's a cool feature that I would like to get back.  Hope this helps.
    • Lolololol maybe, man I hate this car. Lapsed judgement a respray and a new motor, when I should have just scrapped the lot when I had the chance. Farken.
    • So you reckon a few sweety something's whispered in her window and she'll behave for me? 馃槢
    • One of the first things i do when i buy a car is to change the in cabin filter, because no one ever does. There seems to be conflicting statements on the internet, does anyone know if a 97 r33 actually has one?
    • Thankyou! I'll add a pic of my Z for good measure! 馃槢
  • Create New...