Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wat i want to know is if i slapped all the turbo parts from a L28ET on to my L24E in my 84 Mr30 which has a N47 head would the L28et ecu plug straight into my existing loom or would i have to run a few wires if so which ones a diagram of what gos where would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116839-l24et-ecu-and-wiring-question/
Share on other sites

wat i want to know is if i slapped all the turbo parts from a L28ET on to my L24E in my 84 Mr30 which has a N47 head would the L28et ecu plug straight into my existing loom or would i have to run a few wires if so which ones a diagram of what gos where would be great

Have you got the L28ET bits or L20ET bits?

A mate bought a car that had been done.

They used a funny sort of adaptor between the original n/a manifold and turbo. It ran like a dog, but all we did was change the ECU to an L20ET, left the AFM it had, put in L28E injectors & changed the turbine to one off an FJ20DET and it went like stink to about 160k, as that's all we tried it to.

It kept stock rexes honest, above 40 or 50kph they couldn't get away from him, which pissed them no end.

A stock looking 20 year old skyline, that came out as an EFI (NO TURBO) sitting on their nice new rex, they just couldn't understand it.

If it was done with some seriousness I think it would be fairly quick.

1.what dose the adaptor between the intake manifold and the turbo do

2.are you saying that i could use the l20et ecu wid the stock l24e loom

3.i didnt quiet get what you were saying about the car that your mate brought it ran shit but was quick is that wat you were saying and would a proper tune and the L20ET afm and L20ET injectors with the L20ET ecu work better than mixing and matching the l28et and l20et parts

1.what dose the adaptor between the intake manifold and the turbo do

2.are you saying that i could use the l20et ecu wid the stock l24e loom

3.i didnt quiet get what you were saying about the car that your mate brought it ran shit but was quick is that wat you were saying and would a proper tune and the L20ET afm and L20ET injectors with the L20ET ecu work better than mixing and matching the l28et and l20et parts

Ok, but let's just remember I'm no tuner or auto elec and don't know all that was done, but we see if this can help;

1. The Adaptor:

As the outlet flange on an L24E is an interesting 3 bolt triangulated affair encompassing twin outlets and a T03 Turbine flange is a rectangular 4 bolt arrangement, there is absolutely no way the 2 will mate together without some modification and this is therefore "the adaptor". The angles the exhaust comes down at is also totally unsuitable for turbine positioning.

2. ECU vs Loom:

I would think at a guess there would be a lot that can be used from the existing L24E loom for a turbo application. After all, there is no specific wiring going to the turbine itself, just all the controllers around it. In my mates car, there was no extra ECU, no piggy backs, just what appearred to be a stock L24E ECU. His set up included a hobbs switch, which has something to do with boost, so I'm guessing it would have worked at some point. The engineers certificate indicated it was converted by Gary Blogg's Motors in Sydney in 2000/1.

When I was contemplating an RB conversion, an auto elec said to me, that they often used the original loom and just added to it as necessary.

3. The GO:

As for the running like sh!t, a lot of things could have contributed to this and what he/we did was just lucky hitting. I gave him an L20ET ECU that I had spare, thanks to a contributer on this forum. I got him FOC a set of L28E injectors, and as we figured they had to be bigger than the stock L24E injectors, that wouldn't hurt, so they were put in as well.

As for mix & match, what has to be remembered is that L28ET's never came to Oz, they were an o/seas & Jap thing only, primarily USA.

If your serious about doing this conversion, there are a couple of parts that are very important and they are the manifolds. An L28E inlet manifold will suffice, but the L20/28ET exhaust manifold is a must, unless of course you plan on getting a custom one made to order. The other is a Turbo Oil pump, as it has a higher flow rate than that of a n/a oil pump and the very best is from an AUTO L28ET.

It can be a rather rewarding conversion, without the expense of an RB conversion.

I am mixing all sorts of bits in my new L20 engine build. RX7 injectors, Z31 turbine, P90 280ZXT head & cam, Jap spec L28ET inlet manifold & dual stage throttle body, L28ET AFM & ECU (ex USA)

Remember all L series parts are interchangeable with all similar configuration engines, doesn't matter if it's an L20A or L28, everything bolts on and are all compatible. The L series 6 cylinder engines are all identical dimensionally outside.

Cheers, D

cheers mate thats a huge help

i will probably run the following

.l28et ecu

.l28et injectors

.l28et oil pump

.l28et inlet (TB inc) and exhaust manifolds

.l28et afm

.T3 from a VLT

.turbosmart boost tee

.turbosmart bov

.custom 2 1/2 exhaust

.small intercooler down the track

.l24e auto g-box till it shits it self and then il upgrade to a manual box

whats sort of power could you expect to see (ball park figure)?

dose anyone know what sort of prices the l28et stuff on my list go for?

dose anyone make docompression plates for these motors or would i have to get the head shaved if i want to run high boost?

this i my last lot of questions.

Thanks heaps josh

Edited by the big JC
cheers mate thats a huge help

i will probably run the following

.l28et ecu

.l28et injectors

.l28et oil pump

.l28et inlet (TB inc) and exhaust manifolds

.l28et afm

.T3 from a VLT

.turbosmart boost tee

.turbosmart bov

.custom 2 1/2 exhaust

.small intercooler down the track

.l24e auto g-box till it shits it self and then il upgrade to a manual box

whats sort of power could you expect to see (ball park figure)?

dose anyone know what sort of prices the l28et stuff on my list go for?

dose anyone make docompression plates for these motors or would i have to get the head shaved if i want to run high boost?

this i my last lot of questions.

Thanks heaps josh

L28ET ECU will set you back about US$50.00 ... check Ebay.com

L28ET AFM about the same from same place

Injectors, try 7MGE from n/a 3000 Supra & Cressida. Good size and cheaper

Oil Pumps .... there are 3 Turbo pumps. Casting numbers 3, 3.3 & 4. I can do you a type 3 @ best price in town. Call me when your getting close to needing it.

Inlet manifold..... if you can't find L20ET, just go for a stock L28E, on an L24 the advantages can't justify the cost of importing one.

Inlet & Exhaust Manifolds......... Check parts importers and wreckers for L20ET as they're the same

T03 from VLT........ good idea, same as L28ET anyway

BOV......... if your going to vent it to atmosphere like most everyone else, I have a small type 1 you can have for shit

5 Speed will set you back between $150/350.00 + pedal box + clutch, m/cyl etc etc

Approx power from an L24ET would be probably 150/160Kw or maybe a little more.

My new L20ET engine will be giving me about 240Kw @ wheels, but it's a new engine.

And you should have about 8.5:1 in your L24E & N47 head combination, which is great for turbo, so long as you stay under a bar of boost. With keeping below 15psi you should get some reliability as well, so why worry about decompression plates. The higher comp will give better low end torque as well and much better off boost driveability.

And don't worry about the questions.

Cheers, D

thanks again i will definently let you know when i need that oil pump i wont b starting straight away i got a few other projects to get out of the way first motor bikes and some other shit like that then i will be starting

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Might be tricky matching the seat trim material  If your got the funds you "may" want to get the rear re-trimed as well to match the front
    • How much is it to re-uploster?  Well that's a "how longs a piece of string?" question !  And I answer thusly: "twice half its length! " . . . . . .  Seriously you'll have to chase multiple quotes for that one from different uphlostrerereres !  Ask around, in your area and on the forums, chase reviews and most of all see the finished product in person cause photoshop is a wonderful thing !
    • Hey everyone!!  I've noticed that whenever I do my oil changes, after putting 4L in, the oil level sits at the top mark in the dipstick. This is after letting the old oil drain for a very long time too! I've checked the oil level daily for the past few mornings. It happens every time and it's confusing because all the threads say that it should take about 4.7L (With some just adding the full 5L) My next thought is to figure out if the dipstick I have is correct so could someone please tell me the length of the RB25DET engine oil dipstick?  I've checked images of some of the genuine dipsticks, but none of them have the length in it. https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-engine-oil-level-dipstick-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-stagea-c35-laurel-y34-cedric-gloria-rb25de-t-neo?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOortQXofgmiHVRKuIaiKuygL4k0Ewp68c3isGZk0vvKOJ7Yqf3iB However.... the engraving on the genuine ones say 05002 while mine says AA000. This makes me believe that maybe I have a wrong dipstick? I just want to confirm before I buy a new one. The car is a fresh import from Japan so I don't have details of the previous owner to ask him. Thanks in advance 🙏🏾 
    • Sport. I didn’t rebleed it cause I just removed the slave and left connected.    I will change line and slave and see how it goes.  
    • Oh and how is the rattle when foot is on the clutch ?
×
×
  • Create New...