Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Controller

neo32
 Share

Recommended Posts

neo32 Experienced

neo32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

post-16614-1147592680.jpgFast boost response with two adjustable boost levels. Toggle between high and low boost on the fly. Ideal replacement for factory boost controllers. Both high and low boost settings are fully adjustable. Supplied with all fitting hardware and a Rocket Launcher Switch.

if the pic here doesint work use this link

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?id=43

post-16614-1147592762.jpg

Edited by neo32
neo32 Experienced

neo32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the t piece was high flowed by turbosmart to reduce spiking it works quite wellno excesive spikeing at all befort they did the t piece it was quite bad but now good reason for selling i just got a avcr and i need to get some cash back

any of you guys that have made offers are u serious cause no of us reply to my pm

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By EndZee · Posted

      But if I smoke test 5th cylinder it’s all ok, no leaks  when I try with 2nd it’s leaking exhaust and intake, it doesn’t come from oil dip stick.    so maybe when car was running poorly, rich or sth. Spark plugs were black and covered in charcoal or sth lookalike. could potential contamination make valves not seal properly? is there also a possibility that rb’s don’t have equal performing cooling passages  meaning back of the engine will be hotter than front. Can this cause improper wear if engine was running under load for short time? Or carbon build up could just burnt from 4-6 and is still on 1-3?   I out of my head like really. Timing is as manual crank-exhaust 47, exhaust-intake 38 at this point I thinking about give it a try and make another 500-1000km and check if anything change, if not I will most likely disassemble engine head /or whole engine and send it back to rebuild. It’s killing me     
    • wrxhoon
      WTB R33 GTST Catch Can 2L or Bigger

      By wrxhoon · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I don't have a GTR these days mate. Gone soft..
    • dbm7
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah. air pressure leakdown test is where I would be headed next here, using one's ears to determine whether it's the valves or bores/rings leaking...
    • GTSBoy
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no. Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.  
    • GTSBoy
      Attesa pump mount options / ideas? R32 gtr style.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, obviously that kit is not a relocation kit or anything other than just the original isolators and the like. I would suggest that it should be a matter of just bending up some flat bar to build a mount over the top of some other diff, with the flat bar held to the back of the diff by the rear hat bolts. A little welding, a little thinking about how to secure the front of this structure, maybe some different hoses in case you can't get it in just the right place.
×
×
  • Create New...