Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all, I have spent the last couple of years slowly building a website designed to help people new to the Nissan Skyline. It includes specifications and tuning guides for turbo versions of skylines from the R32 onwards.

I have also including sections covering the following

turbo upgrade specs

AFM specs

cam specs

HICAS, ATTESSA, NVCS and how these systems work

40 imbedded videos of the best skyline clips I could find

wallpapers

history of modifications to my own car

plus much more

I am updating the website regularly so feel free to bookmark the page. If you have any ideas or notice mistakes (other than spelling and grammar) please fell free to pm me.

Hope you find it useful

cheers

nissan skyline

Edited by Munna1
  • Like 1
nice one mate, was very interesting to read.

one question though... if you put a manual boost controller, what do you have to do to disable that dual stage boost control thing you were talking about??

On the passangers side stut tower there is a solenoid with 2 hoses and 2 wires comming out of it.

Remove the hose that goes to the wastegate actuator and the hose connected to the nipple on the intercooler piping. I think its the top one on the solenoid but I cant remember.

Remove the two wires via the plug on the solenoid

Install a new hose from the actuator straight to the nipple on the intercooler piping.

You have now removed the two stage boost control and will be running 5 psi throughout the rev range.

You need to cut the new hose to install the manual boost controller.

So you will end up with the hose comming of the piping to the boost controller then to the actualtor.

Pictures would explain this better but I dont have any a search on these might be helpful to

cheers

A very well written documentation dude..

Well worth a read people..

Thanks Siddr20 I still have a lot of work to do.

R32 GTS-T, R33 GTS25-T and R34 GT-T Specifications added. I hope to have a GTR tuning guide by the end of this week.

cheers >_<

thats some good stuff, and noob will benifit greatly.

are you 100% sure removing the boost restrictor gets you 1 bar?

I cant say I have done it myself but several people around the forum have done it and run 1 bar

cheers

Edited by Munna1
  • 3 weeks later...

Almost finished stage 2 mods (minus AFM and injectors)

Havent had mine tuned yet but im hoping to get just over the 200 mark...

Any chance of stage 3 with some power estimates? (For RB25)

Thanks Lithius

Trooper I certainly will be completing a stage 3 guide for the RB20 RB25, and RB26.

I have just completed the stage 2 engine tuning guide for the GTR.

I hope to have more detailed information like cam specs etc. shortly.

If you would like to be informed about new updates etc. you can subsribe to my free newsletter.

cheers

Edited by Munna1

Mad site! Helping me out at the moment, when im looking at the basic mods for my car.

However, i must ask a question - is it more worth getting a pod filter or a FMIC for the maximum gains? I know getting both will def get me a canary (specially after i get the exhaust put on)

Any suggestions?

I have just added a Tech Resources section this contains turbo specs with power outputs and AFM information. This section will soon contain injector information and a unit conversion tool.

Emsta an intercooler will give you better results

I see you have a r33 gtst id suggest upgrading to a R34 GT-T intercooler if you can get your hands on one efficient to 200rwkw.

If you plan on up-grading your turbo down the track you may need something bigger. Some brand name intercoolers (blitz is one I think) use a piping route which still allows you to still use the intake snorkel (they dont have the pipe running over the front of your engine) in this case you just need to put a high flow panel filter in your airbox. I only installed a pod and CAI because my piping was in the way of the snorkel.

cheers

Edited by Munna1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

quick question can u pm me the answer please...

looking at buying a second hand 32 gtr.. 86K Km's on the clock (cant say if original) its dead stock and want to know wat RWKW is should produce standard, and also wat compression ratio should i be hoping for? anything else to look oput for on a second hand 32 gtr?

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
  • Create New...