Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey, reading this now and just one query:

If I was looking at mid spec -> high end gear how much would stage 1 of the R33 GTS25T cost???

Also, how do I tell the difference between a high quality cat flow? Purely on cost??? I don't know too much about exhausts. I am trying to find a guide on purchasing an exhaust and the ins and outs but having trouble.

EDIT: Online (just for price guides) I can mostly find gear for the R32 RB20DET, these engines are pretty similar arn't they? Universal gear for these? So around the same costs?

Cheers.

Edited by Midol

depends what parts you use if you never plan on going past stage 1

- R34 GTT intercooler $100- 200

- R32 GTST wastegate actuator $30 - 50

- Power FC with hand controller $950 or second hand SAFC $300

- 3" small body casco highflow cat and open bellmouth front/dump pipes $300- 400 (call justjap.com)

- Second hand cat back exhaust $400 - $600

- optional exhaust cam gear - $90 (in group buy section)

- add labour and tuning on top of this

(You may also need to budget for a new fuel pump and clutch)

This will get you around 180 - 200rwkw depending on engine condition etc.

If I had my time again this is what I would have done, but if I planed on going a larger turbo down the track id change a few things

- larger intercooler (hybrid or copy)

- split front/dump pipe (from batmbl)

- stainless cat (from Batmbl)

- Electronic boost control (nengun or second hand)

Or you can pay top dollar for brand name parts and get similar (maybe slightly better results) places to check for parts

www.justjap.com

http://www.bosimporting.com.au/ PM BATMBL on the forums for specials

- the for sale section of these forums

- for actuators IC etc use the WTB section

For genuine Jap parts the prices on these sites are hard to beat

www.nengun.com

www.greenline.jp

cheers

Edited by Munna1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • She swallowed the spider to catch the fly.
    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
×
×
  • Create New...