Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 513
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah Mitch and I were sharing the day - car took a complete pounding as he was in Group C and I was in Group D. Car had no issues (apart from having no boost :nyaanyaa:) but the temperatures were getting a little bit high and uncomfortable by the end of my sessions.

Don't really know who got what times per lap; but Mitch's best was 1:17 and I was slower with 1:19.

For Eastern Creek we'll just keep to the one Group and let the car cool down properly instead of having it go in one group after another :D

Car's going through some TLC at the moment so it's all good :nyaanyaa: And by EC I should have the rest of the gear put in which will make it a whole lot more fun :)

Question to all the seasoned pros out there: If you were going to get serious about the track day... do you go out on every session to get maximum number of laps in, or do you set yourself a number of laps to 1) reduce damage to the car and 2) do your best in those laps.

I'm thinking... going out every session and gunning around the circuit is not only going to be pretty harmful to the car but also on the wallet for fuel :laugh:

James; we left early because the temps were getting a little high yes. Also because we wanted to raise the suspension, but didn't have C spanners to do it with (forgot) so we just settled for that time and packed up.

First time Mitch or I had been to a track day; we went not expecting much; only to see what the car could do. Now we know, we will do what's necessary to make it better and hopefully in the meantime improve on driving skills :)

To Adam; you are right - these are addictive!!!

Question to all the seasoned pros out there: If you were going to get serious about the track day... do you go out on every session to get maximum number of laps in, or do you set yourself a number of laps to 1) reduce damage to the car and 2) do your best in those laps.

I'm thinking... going out every session and gunning around the circuit is not only going to be pretty harmful to the car but also on the wallet for fuel :)

I do the following.

The first session I do 3 warm up laps, get the enginee, brakes and tyres to track temp.

All other sessions I do 1-2 warm up because the car normally still has some temp in it.

Always do 1 SLOW lap cool down and keep the car running for about 5min.

Never do anything more then 10-15min (Summer-Winter) at full go, a street can cant take much more, Brakes and tyres go off and enginee temp gets too high.

Saying that every car is different!

Thanks for that advice Paul.... from that it would seem that our strategy from now on is OK, no more than 1 session at a time.

I think the rather high temps were in fact due to us running in consecutive sessions :)

Thanks for that advice Paul.... from that it would seem that our strategy from now on is OK, no more than 1 session at a time.

I think the rather high temps were in fact due to us running in consecutive sessions :)

just buy a rb30 powered silvia

and just thrash it session after session

it loves

you know what? when I get my debts all paid off in a couple of years, and the price of S13 drops to rock bottom, I'll get myself a banged up silvia and use that as track pig. hehehehhee

I do the following.

The first session I do 3 warm up laps, get the enginee, brakes and tyres to track temp.

All other sessions I do 1-2 warm up because the car normally still has some temp in it.

Always do 1 SLOW lap cool down and keep the car running for about 5min.

Never do anything more then 10-15min (Summer-Winter) at full go, a street can cant take much more, Brakes and tyres go off and enginee temp gets too high.

Saying that every car is different!

and leave your handbrake down for that 5mins :blink:

and ouch! massive crack!!! awesome effort! lol! :)

A few of the guys with Group Buy suspension kits have asked if I can make it to the next track day. So when is it, so that I can lock it into the calendar? Eastern Creek, is that right?

:/ cheers :O




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...