Jump to content
SAU Community

32 Gtr Battery To Boot,

Guest Mashrock

By Guest Mashrock,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

gexenon Collaborator

gexenon

Posted
Posted
looking for something on this topic.

but have come up with nothing at all.

where is the best place to run the wire through from the engine bay,

and for racing purposes, do i need to insulate that wire some more through the fire wall etc?

you can run it though the passenger side of the fire wall but will need to take the inner guard out, or the easier way it to run it under the car along the fuel line and come up though a hole under the spare tyre, takes no time and don't have to take any panels off :thumbsup:

Topaz Grand Master

Topaz

Posted
Posted

1. Take the wheel off and some of the screws for the plastic guard

2. push a screwdriver through the hugely apparent rubber grommet from the front into the car.

This is the drivers side and i don't know if its the same the otherside, but then you will have to run the cable across the engine somewhere and thats bad for reasons of heat+plastic.

I wrapped most of the cable from the battery in black electrical tape (because its illegal to be red, or something stupid)

post-13111-1147254430.jpg

post-13111-1147254493.jpg

Topaz Grand Master

Topaz

Posted
Posted

I used 2 guage for power, but 8 guage would be perfect. I have been told 2 guage is a bit of overkill by some people and that 0 guage is only way to go for power by others. :. I don't think there is a 4 guage....I could be wrong but I have never seen any.

ellie Proficient

ellie

Posted
Posted

A lot of cars run a battery in the boot (wieght distribution). 0 gauge is huge over kill, it would be approx. 2-3cm thick and good luck getting it through any where let alone around any tight fitting bends or trims! Any way, if you haven't noticed the cars wiring (positive and negative) on an R32 is 8 gauge at best to the terminals. 4 gauge is ideal - large enough to not drop voltage but appliable and the correct size for aftermarket battery terminals. And 4 gauge is what most factory cars run for there main power cables (batteries, starter motors etc.).

Running it under the car is illegal and emencely dangerous if the wire was to be exposed (especially in an accident!)

As previously mentioned, your battery is on the drivers side so run it through where the picture showed you!

Don't be lazy and pull your seats out, lift you carpet up and lay the wire correctly as the main wiring loom to the back is there so it's easy to follow all the way into the boot

I would go the extra mile to and take the chance to improve your cars electrical capability and replace your earths and add a few new ones with black 4 gauge wire as all your motor electronics earth through your motor to earth lead to chassis so if you have a better connection and more of them you may be surprised at the difference. Thats what those earth kits are for!

To be honest with you, I'm going to be doing this in the near future too and haven't looked at how I'm going to mount my battery and case in the boot so if you do yours, post pics or tutorial!

Hope that helps :P

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

hmm thanks for the info ellie

i rang complete carsound today and asked for their opinion (i've bought stuff off them before) and they said to use "00" gauge cable. they can get it for me for roughly $25/m.

ripping the HICAS out soon, so i may aswell do the wiring right also

JET-32R Newbie

JET-32R

Posted
Posted

I recently relocated my battery into the boot of my car. Used 2 gauge cable, ran both the positive and negative cables under the car (wrapped in 2 cable conduit tubes). Ran along the chassis rails near the brake lines, making sure i tucked the cnduit under as close as possible to the body, cable-tie-ing every 10cm or so.

bought an approved battery box from peps ( repco, supercheap etc etc will have them) and finished it off by using som gold plated terminal mounts.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
I recently relocated my battery into the boot of my car. Used 2 gauge cable, ran both the positive and negative cables under the car (wrapped in 2 cable conduit tubes). Ran along the chassis rails near the brake lines, making sure i tucked the cnduit under as close as possible to the body, cable-tie-ing every 10cm or so.

bought an approved battery box from peps ( repco, supercheap etc etc will have them) and finished it off by using som gold plated terminal mounts.

You dont need to run a neg cable to the front of the car. All you need is positive to the front and the neg to the body in the boot somewhere.

You beed to vent the box outside, unless you have a sealed battery.

  • 2 weeks later...
mazgtr Community Regular

mazgtr

Posted
Posted (edited)

***************

Hey fellas, im in the process of doing this mod in my GTR. But i cant for the life of me find any thick enough electrical wire to run from the engine to the battery in the boot.

Im looking for 4Gauge, but was just hopeing someone could throw me a couple of shops or numbers i should try, im in Sydney?

Thanks a lot guys...

Edited by mazgtr
  • 2 weeks later...
shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

If anyone's wondering how long a cable you need, its 5.2m. this will be sufficient to go from the fron where the battery originally was, under the front guard following the other cable, and under the carpet into the left hand side of the boot plus giving a little bit extra.

i've got mine on the left as i'll be putting the surge tank and pumps on the right :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Looking at finally painting and installing my R32 GTR wing I bought back in 2018. I got two quotes: Quote 1: $880 includes: wing, spare boot, holes welded up prep/paint. Pro: full boot with wing AND hole-less boot with lip i can swap between Con: $$  Quote 2: $330 wing only. Pro: cheaper Con: lose my (relatively) rare no holes sedan boot Also to consider I do plan on painting my whole car at some point "soon" (been saying that since 2018) Anyway Enjoy these All Japan Day 2025 pictures of my 4 door, still rocking the Calsonic Livery! Rolling in Interior shot Matching Peer Pressure Racing overalls are pretty cute ngl. This year was a hard 1990 cut so I got to be over with all the older cool stuff Next to arguably the best car there. A mighty S-Cargo
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rb head oil drain dimensions

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I personally would run 2x from the cam covers into the catch can, 1x sump vent to catch can (would mount this at a low point of the catch can, so it can also act as a drain). I would see if you can run a -12AN down there to improve venting and also draining. The head drain thing, just drain that back to the sump on the other side. Catch can to be vented, unless you plumb or back to the intake.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rb head oil drain dimensions

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Yeah the head "drain" is rather a sump/crank case vent. My catch can stopped filling up after venting the sump to the catch can. I have 4x fittings in mine, which is about 5Ls. 2x cam, 1x sump vent/catch can drain, 1x fitting back to the intake and a massive breather which can be blocked so it's a fully sealed system.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • sausagepianist
      V36 2008 Coupe Wiring Differences with Android Screen

      By sausagepianist · Posted

      Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...