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The HYDRA has only been in australia for about 2 years

but its been in america for 6

its only fresh on the market

it was started here by matt @ MDAC and now he is giving up on them as people wont give them a try

i got one for my car and as a Dyno tuner myself aint going back to another ECU.The Owner of the company from overseas has asked me to wholesale them and currently i am setting up to become the Australian HYDRA distributor.

They are one of the best ecus and as i said gives you alot of tuning capabilities and aux`s that the Power fc hasnt got.

Its all programed Via a laptop and doesnt have any hand controllers

The electronic boost controller being able to control different sensors and controlling boost better then the Turbosmart Eboost.

Also runs a closed loop auto tune which pretty much tunes itself for you

the Tuning capabilities of it are just as good as haltech but with more Aux`s and More tuning Maps.

They currently are designing the digitial dashes which show Water temp,Rev,Boost,Duty,Knock,Speed,Ign & inlet Air temps

which should be up and running in the next few months

Edited by MR331307
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How does it handle autotune? What sensors does it need for autotune?

Does it support the factory knock sensors?

Does it support the factory airflow meter out of the box?

How does it go as far as cold start and idle control?

Does it come with a base map?

Is it a plug and play ECU or does it need wire changes?

What is supported via AUX?

Does it come with an optional air temp sensor?

Many places remap the standard ECU

but its pretty expensive

anything from $500 to $1000

and ill say i wouldnt waste the time and money

better of buying an aftermarket ecu giving you the unlimited capabilty of tuning and changing things

The power limit on the Emange is uncertain i dont know what Hp there recommended for but as for the HYDRA its got no limitation and always is upgradable with new Software and Sensors.

Also the Hydra runs all factory Sensors such as the Knock and water temp sensors

The Engine light also acts like a Knock light telling you how much the engine is knocking.The Ecu also gives you a Knock map allowing you to retard timing and add more fuel

How does it handle autotune? What sensors does it need for autotune?

Does it support the factory knock sensors?

Does it support the factory airflow meter out of the box?

How does it go as far as cold start and idle control?

Does it come with a base map?

Is it a plug and play ECU or does it need wire changes?

What is supported via AUX?

Does it come with an optional air temp sensor?

*Autotune needs the Factory O2 sensor apart from that Nothing else

*Supports Factory Knocks Sensors

*Doesnt support the Factory AIR FLOW METER as this gets removed with the MAP SENSOR which is 3 bar from Factory

*Cold start mapping is In the ecu Varying from Cranking to Water Temp To air Temp

* idle control is controled Via factory Solonoid

*It has a base map

*It is a Plug and play ECU

*Aux Supports-Nitrous,Anti Lag,Launch Control,Thermo Fans,Boost Soloniods,Water Sprayers,Guages,Warning Lights,Dash Lights EG engine Light (theres more but i currently carnt remember tooooo Tired)

*It comes with the Opitional Air Temp Sensor

Anything Else you need to know

Edited by MR331307

This is fast turning into another pointless MAP vs MAF debate.

And i think we have had enough of them over the past 6 months or so.

Both sides, pro and con have been put forward.

Its not upto you, the users to decide.

The whole - Auto R33 ECU thing has been covered aswell. People have gone to great trouble do do write-ups on them so far :O

Search button is your friend

I have one comment to make on something thats nearly had me spit my water across the room however, then ill just watch this thread unfold into another debate (and get locked)

1 majour bad thing about the Air flow meter is that it restricts air flow

bullshit

You can use any o2 sensor

i use the Bosch 4 wire same as the ones used on the dyno dynamics dyno

but all you need for the auto tune is the standard sensor

The way it works is you set a map like the Fuel map and in a map which goes RPM x Boost you adjust what A/fs you want Eg from 14.7 on Idle to 11.5 on 18 psi

now when thrashing the car the car adjusts itself to give you these A/fs where you have set them.just like how you adjust fuel m/s

correction: manual neo stagea so all but the same as R34 with atessa controlled awd.

Sorry champ thought it was an auto

any ways

ill check and get back to you

so does the AWD system work off the ECU or just the Speed of the car

i wouldt think the ECU would control that as well

doesnt the Stagea have an AWD computer in the rear.

This is fast turning into another pointless MAP vs MAF debate.

And i think we have had enough of them over the past 6 months or so.

Both sides, pro and con have been put forward.

Its not upto you, the users to decide.

The whole - Auto R33 ECU thing has been covered aswell. People have gone to great trouble do do write-ups on them so far :)

Search button is your friend

I have one comment to make on something thats nearly had me spit my water across the room however, then ill just watch this thread unfold into another debate (and get locked)

bullshit

man i aint gonna talk to you

last time i did you kicked me off

you just leave me alone ok :):O

You can use any o2 sensor

i use the Bosch 4 wire same as the ones used on the dyno dynamics dyno

but all you need for the auto tune is the standard sensor

The way it works is you set a map like the Fuel map and in a map which goes RPM x Boost you adjust what A/fs you want Eg from 14.7 on Idle to 11.5 on 18 psi

now when thrashing the car the car adjusts itself to give you these A/fs where you have set them.just like how you adjust fuel m/s

The bosch 4 wires are fast and wide 02 sensors used on dyno's and wideband systems.

But you've said here the slow and narrow sensor can be used in "autotune" mode.

Using any 02 sensor is not suitable. The standard slow and narrow sensor is not useful enough to do a fuel map tune. It is only use for closed loop feedback. It can't even measure outside it's narrow range.

Right and so what happens you hit 18psi and more air is coming, does it just lean out ?

pretty much as you describe, i understand the atessa (located in the rear) takes an rpm and speed signal from the ECU.

the issue for me will be can an R34 powerFC be shoehorned into the stagea, still waiting for a copy of the pinouts to send to the tuner to see how hard it will be to modify one. i prefer the powerFC due to the overwhelming support of them/currently use one on an R33. however, if i get stuck i am looking for a decent alternative.

man i aint gonna talk to you

last time i did you kicked me off

you just leave me alone ok :):O

wasnt me actually, i dont have access to ban unfortunately :)

I would say it was Admins who got sick of your attitude, nothing to do with me.

The bosch 4 wires are fast and wide 02 sensors used on dyno's and wideband systems.

But you've said here the slow and narrow sensor can be used in "autotune" mode.

Using any 02 sensor is not suitable. The standard slow and narrow sensor is not useful enough to do a fuel map tune. It is only use for closed loop feedback. It can't even measure outside it's narrow range.

Right and so what happens you hit 18psi and more air is coming, does it just lean out ?

What you mean by more air comming in

if you are tuning the map to suit 18 psi you shouldnt get more air coming in then whats already there

if your getting more air you will be getting more boost if your getting more boost you aint running 18 psi which will then resolved in a boost cut which activates 3 psi higher then the boost you have set

pretty much as you describe, i understand the atessa (located in the rear) takes an rpm and speed signal from the ECU.

the issue for me will be can an R34 powerFC be shoehorned into the stagea, still waiting for a copy of the pinouts to send to the tuner to see how hard it will be to modify one. i prefer the powerFC due to the overwhelming support of them/currently use one on an R33. however, if i get stuck i am looking for a decent alternative.

If all it takes is a RPM and Speed signal

you can set this off the AUX settings in the ecu

i can say then that this ECU will work in your application

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