Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone,

The compression in my RB26DETT is very low and I am considering replacing the rings and bearings myself.

Is this easy? Do I have to pull the whole engine out or can I work from underneath? I have access to a hoist which will make things easier.

Look forward to your advice.

Cheers. :D

Edited by GTRGoddy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117092-r32-gtr-needs-new-rings/
Share on other sites

rip off the head drop the sump and go for you life son!

btw, wat compression readings did u get?

You make it sound very easy, if only it was as easy as that.

To rebuilt an engine, its engine out job, no ifs no buts, anything other, like rip the head off sump off( ever tried that on a GTR?). Give it a light hone and new rings and bearings and she will be out very soon again .

To answer your question GTRGoddy, yes you can do it yourself as long as you have some exreriance or have someone guide you. You need to pull the donk out, strip it and carefuly check and measure everything, replace anything that is not within specs/worn.

Even the most basic rebuild should include, rebore the block, new pistons and rings, crank checked out and if need be regrind it, new bearings and a new oil pump. Have someone service the cil head and new gaskets, timming belt, tensioner and iddler .

Edited by wrxhoon

Thanks wrxhoon, how much do you think that would cost? I've read forums where people say allow between $6K to 10K.

Because I will be doing it myself and only doing the essential items (without skimping) would I need to budget this much?

Thanks for your advice.

rip off the head drop the sump and go for you life son!

btw, wat compression readings did u get?

I just bought the car in Japan and before I bought it they said it compression is low, but how low I don't know.

But at the end of the day it's a 1994 GTR and it will owe me $9K once landed and the body is in immac condition. Hopefully nothing else is wrong with it.

I would take the engine out.. take the head off, and send them to an expert to do the rest and/or purchase the components you need yourself (in consultation with the engine builder of course). All of this can be done in a weekend.

When the engine is ready, spend the time dropping it back in yourself.

Just the above will save you a few thousand most likely. Spend the savings on the fun bits.

i have just done all this 2 mine and i am a mechanic with my own shop and it started out as a basic rebuild cause mine ran lean at 22psi and melted no 6 piston, cracked the ring land on no 5, and did the big end on no 6. i stopped counting the cost at $25,000 (and no labour) if it is low on compression on no 6 piston it usually is melted piston/cracked ring land (if u run high boost)? it is not an easy job, the best way 2 do it is remove engine and box and sub frame/crossmember. and the cause was a lazy fuel pump!!!

Thanks wrxhoon, how much do you think that would cost? I've read forums where people say allow between $6K to 10K.

Because I will be doing it myself and only doing the essential items (without skimping) would I need to budget this much?

Thanks for your advice.

Parts for a basic rebuild can quite cheap but you can also spend 10's of thousands, it depends on what you want .

As a guide pistons and rings about $1300, bearings $150, oil pump $500, a full set of gaskets from Nissan $300, water pump $140, timming belt, tensioner+ iddler $200 . Depends on who you know as to how much you will pay for bore+hone + clean the block but say $250, same with the crank, say $400 ( you will need to put a coller on that) , then you have to get the cil head serviced say $450+ parts if needed ( stem seals come in the gasket set), then oil, oil filter, drive belts etc.. Thats the very minimum, i'm sure you will find something else when you strip it, like maybe engine mounts, driveshaft boots etc...

I have a December 1993 R32 GTR does that have the updated crank collar?

Just planning a complete rebuild and would like to know what CRANK MODIFICATIONS are needed to fit the new N1 oil pump? Or would a brand NEW R33 GTR crank be better?

I have a December 1993 R32 GTR does that have the updated crank collar?

Just planning a complete rebuild and would like to know what CRANK MODIFICATIONS are needed to fit the new N1 oil pump? Or would a brand NEW R33 GTR crank be better?

If you give me your engine number i maybe able to tell you .

Mo mods needed to fit the N1 oil pump at all, but 32 cranks have a narrow coller and they spin on the pump.

Where are you going to get a new crank from? Nissan have been out of stock for months now.

If you give me your engine number i maybe able to tell you .

Mo mods needed to fit the N1 oil pump at all, but 32 cranks have a narrow coller and they spin on the pump.

Where are you going to get a new crank from? Nissan have been out of stock for months now.

Cant find engine number. Will check with compliance tomorrow. Thanks

As wrxhoon said, good luck finding a brand new Nissan crank. They are basically non existant at the moment and for the forseeable future.

The modification is extending the drive for the oil pump on the end of the crankshaft. It involves grinding back the original drive, pressing the new extended collar on and grub screwing it in place for good measure.

www.proengines.com.au can help you with all the info as they rebuild quite alot of these things.

As wrxhoon said, good luck finding a brand new Nissan crank. They are basically non existant at the moment and for the forseeable future.

The modification is extending the drive for the oil pump on the end of the crankshaft. It involves grinding back the original drive, pressing the new extended collar on and grub screwing it in place for good measure.

www.proengines.com.au can help you with all the info as they rebuild quite alot of these things.

Thanks Amaru.

My engine number is RB26 038604A.. Can anyone advise details on this model? Any aspects regarding the crank or rebuild would be great..

Thanks Amaru.

My engine number is RB26 038604A.. Can anyone advise details on this model? Any aspects regarding the crank or rebuild would be great..

That one is to close to call for me but if i had to say i would go with the old crank. You will only be sure when you pull it out. Someone else maybe able to tell you .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...