Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

coilvers are a whole strut/srping replacement.

basically its a perfectly match strut and spring, but all gives you things like hieght adjustment, damper adjustment(how hard/soft the bounces are) and high end ones give rebound adjustment too (how much it bounces)

personally, id reccomend the D2's for a good cheap street coilover.

teins are quite stiff, however they have just released a 'softer, australian version' they are still quite expensive.

ive got teins in my car, whilst it handles like a dream on flat surfaces, find some bumps like a normal road and it can be quite a handful.

ask wilkys what they reccomend coilover wise for a street driven 2 (i assume you dont take it to the track much, if at all) and get a price off that.

getting springs may be all you need, i dont know how 'hardcore' you want to go with your car(track/street/show?) but coilovers are definately a good handling mod.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117295-permits/page/3/#findComment-2397033
Share on other sites

my car was used for a bit of drift over in jah-pan.

so it came with alot of adjustable goodies.

coilovers are a good choice if thats your plan, but then you can always get the springs, and sell them at a later date for a setof coilies.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117295-permits/page/3/#findComment-2397041
Share on other sites

dude dont waste 600 on suspension that your just gonna replace soon just fork out extra and get some d2s the are about 1500 1700 fitted they are alrite coilovers i got them on my car i got the track ones u can get street, rally, and drift ones pretty much all at the same price u can adjust the dampener and hieght which is quite kool and if need be you can raise the car like a 4x4 or dumped in the gaurds (like me not good only good for shows bad scrapage in normal daily use)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117295-permits/page/3/#findComment-2397547
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Call them up and ask. Speculating isn't going to get you permits.

Since I have been over the pits a few times already, the dude has said

"You are not getting this car on the road with out permits for: ... ... ... ... ... ... ... "

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117295-permits/page/3/#findComment-2432532
Share on other sites

Hey i just rang up the licensing centre regarding legal wheel widths and apparently theyre a bit flexible on the width just as long as the track distance doesnt change more than 25mm. So if i get some wheels with the same offset as the factory wheels my track distance should stay the same regardless of the wheel width, right?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117295-permits/page/3/#findComment-2438314
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Started sifting thru my brakes to decide which ones I will run on Clem   Made me think I should just put them all on Silver...for when brake fade just isn't an option   Should be able to bump rotor up from 343x32 to 348x36 off Supra. Not sure if the Supra annulus is right for the Alcons or APs but trying g to find a used Supra\M4 rotor to test fit The Alcons seem to gain 1-2mm clearance which all helps  
    • So car is getting a few mods to the cage and some jacking points welded in Meantime Ol Silver gets a new gearbox and shiny clutch.  Old Box is being set aside for Clem  
    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
×
×
  • Create New...