Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oil filter has been changed several times to eliminate it causing the problem. However, releif valve should be open if there is a restriction in that area.I seem to think that it maybe jammed closed and not operating at all ! I have taken it apart to check spring etc, found 2 shims under the retaining bolt, and also took aparta brand new N1 pump and found no shims ! they are only 1mm total thickness, harldy enough to change base oil pressure at idle by 65psi !

I have checked the spring rate, it is a linear spring and the same spring rate as a standard gtr 32 pump, the satndard pump i was comparing had 1 shim(0.5mm) the pump on the car which i am having problems with has 2 (1.0mm) and the brand new, unused N! pump had none !

Hence i dont think that this is the problem

I use a rule of thumb of 10 PSI per 1000RPM.

This 92PSI @ Idle sounds extreme.

Also when changing shim sizes, I have found on average for a pump this size (Pressure vs Volume) that as little as 0.010" can change the pressure 4PSI around the 100 mark.

Your releif valve could be just jammed shut?

>_<

ok... 92 pound is pretty normal.

my 200k old 32gtr runs:

cold start up. 6 bar

rev it abit goes up to 7.6bar

when the oil is at 80 degrees:

2.5 bar at idle 4bar by 3500 6bar @ 5000

its not a 253 mate.

thats some normal shiet, dont stresss

ok... 92 pound is pretty normal.

No that's not normal for an engine at idle and the oil at normal operating temp, as per the OP. For a stock oil pump and engine in good nick, an R32 GTR should have oil pressure of about 20psi at idle. The N1 oil pump has an increased spring rate on the relief valve to boost oil pressure, but at idle that should only give an increase of maybe 5psi at most, and certainly 92psi is way too much. Frankly I'm a little sceptical at such a high reading, esp at idle and would want to have it triple checked using a _calibrated_ gauge, but the cause is probably related to the relief valve and that needs to be checked.

SteveL, I would have to agree with you, as for checking the oil pressure, 3 guages have been used, all calibrated and all read as explained.92 psi at idle i believe is excessive, this is also at normal operating temperature ! Also, oil pressure doesnt change through out the rpm range as indicated by an increase in oil pump speed.I dont think that the relief vavle can hold such pressure when rpm increases, simple maths says, increase flow rate(pumps rpm) must be proportional to pressure head.Given the standard 10 psi per 1000 rpm, @ 6000 i would have approx 150 psi !, this is not the case, checked , re checked and checked again, oil pressure remains at an indicated 92 psi.

Its got me stumped

200

Have you checked the pressure with analog gauges or 3 standard nissan in dash units?

If you havent tried this, then get hold of a mechanical analog gauge, say 0 - 100 psig, see what happens.

You may have an electrical fault, sending the wrong current through the gauge. Because you said that it's at 95 pretty much all the time, it's like an alternator with it's current load when charging, kind of constant.???

Just a thought.

Glenn

Im pretty sure he did say 2 mechanical gauges and 1 electrical gauge...sounds like hes in a workshop or works for a workshop so im guessing you didnt try three std gauges? And im guessing they tried the same gauges on another car to make sure it wasnt reading 92psi...seriously what are the chances of three gauges all stuffing up at the same time?

There isnt some highly unlikely piece of shit or something that is blocking the gallery to the oil pressure sender feed and causing whatever amount of flow to equal 92psi? Just thinking outside the usual square here especially since the basics have been checked.

i have had excessive oil pressure before on an SR20 (in a GTI-R). pulled off oil filter, poked finger around in there, problem went away. dont know if that will help, but it helped me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...