Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. Never get a non-sealed battery, for the reason you mentioned (leaking), plus it's illegal (venting gases in boot = bad).

2. You should probably look at a deep cycle battery, something like an Optima / Odyssey battery or equivalent. I use an Optima Yellow Top and I can leave my car for a month and it will start straight away.

3. Or you could check out the group buy below, dunno if it's still on.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=62252

Agreed with what 97gtst and Razor have said.

I totally do not understand why anyone would even contemplate putting a non sealed b82rz into a car boot. I personally try and keep my car as imacculate as possible. I'd hate to have acid powder all over the boot eating the paint and my hands and everything else.

Fellars, a mainenance free battery IS NOT a sealed battery.

Do it right the first time, it'll cost more at first, but it'll save you spending more later getting the shelf cleaned and resprayed ($$$$).

I was helping a friend with his car on the weekend. I opened the battery panel, and there was acid all over the place. Someone had just bunged in a century standard battery. There was acid everywhere. I refused to touch it. He didn't seem to care that his car looked like shit. I just don't get it. oh well...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...