Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Saliya, could you get me prices on stuff for my gb. It seems your Nissan dealer is a fair bit cheaper than mine.

I have the r33 series 1 box. I need a complete bearing set, but wouldnt mind a price on parts required to rebuild the whole box too (like complete syncro set, gaskets, and any other bearings/seals ive missed) Only thing i dont need is the gears themselves...

Your help would be much appreciated :)

Hi,

I've posted the details for the folks that I used higher in the thread; North Shore Mitsubishi, Nissan

Spares dept. They don't know me from a bar of soap, but they at least can get stuff for my import.

They are very prompt and do exactly what they say they will. I've used them since I bought my first

GTR about 4 years ago. Give them your VIN. You definitely want original (i.e. Nissan) synchros,

gaskets and seals.

Synchros are probably about $125RRP each; don't know how many gaskets on that box but on mine

the gaskets + seal were about $20-25 all up. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that you

should not need synchros for 1st or 5th gears (of course, having said that, now your gearbox

place will call me a liar :)); but your price of $550 for 5 synchros is not really a horrible price.

Bearings you should be able to get matched substantially cheaper from someone like CNC;

have your gearbox place pull the bearings from your old box, advise you which ones to replace,

then give you a price for those bearings to be replaced. It goes without saying that you need to have

some kind of trust relationship in place with your gearbox place first (that is, you need to be

able to trust them to 1) do a good job and 2) tell you the truth about what stuff you need.

I got aftermarket bearings; if I'd gotten Nissan bearings it would have been a lot more expensive.

Unfortunately I paid a premium for those bearings (they should have been around the $200 mark)

because some people like to go out and buy 50 bearing sets, then wait for the supply to dry up so

they can charge what they like. Supply and demand :P

You said - R+R - $0 - do you mean it cost you nothing to pull it down and put it back in.. not quite sure what you mean..

$450 - was that pulling it all apart, putting in new synchros & re-pressing the bearings??

Links,

Cost me nothing to remove and replace it; that's just getting it out of the car then putting it back in.

Took about 2 hours to remove and about the same to put back (remember, I'm no expert, and by

'remove and replace' I mean the gearbox plus all the other crap that has to come out first/go in after :P)

Yes, the $450 was labour to pull the box down, clean all the bits, examine all the bits, then reassemble

with the new bearings and synchros. The disassembly took about 2 hours, what with me interrupting

and taking pictures all the time. I didn't see the reassembly. But I think the charges were very fair.

Regards,

Saliya

Edited by saliya
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The remove and replace was done by himself so it was free labour. I've got my R32 GTR box in about a million pieces now. Dunno why i did it cuz it wasent noisy i just wanted to make sure it was all in good shape. Yes crazy and stupid both come to mind!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...