Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Can someone please help me?

Basically, from what I understand, the door sensors on the r33 are on different circuits. i.e. when the driver's door is opened and the key is in the ignition, there is a chime noise. But, when the passenger door is opened, there is no chime noise.

If i'm hooking up an alarm, how can I get it such that if either door is opened, the alarm will be triggered? i.e. where can I tap into a wire?

The reason I ask is because my alarm installer did a dodgy job.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117416-door-open-sensor/
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Can someone please help me?

Basically, from what I understand, the door sensors on the r33 are on different circuits. i.e. when the driver's door is opened and the key is in the ignition, there is a chime noise. But, when the passenger door is opened, there is no chime noise.

If i'm hooking up an alarm, how can I get it such that if either door is opened, the alarm will be triggered? i.e. where can I tap into a wire?

The reason I ask is because my alarm installer did a dodgy job.

Hi mate go to the thick wiring loom in the drivers kickpanel (to the right of your left foot) and find a thin red wire, it is one of 2 and it is the thinner one out of the 2, you can tell because the other one is a little thicker in diameter.

I have been fitting car alarms for Security In Motion for the past 5 years and if we don't know nobody does!

Next time just call us.

Can you explain something to me?

The previous alarm installer just soldered a wire onto the actual switch on the driver's door. But as I said above, the passenger's door is on a separate circuit.

So just to confirm, doing this red wire will have it hooked up to both sensors?

Cheers

To Confirm in a r33 the door sensor pick up wire is the thin red wire in the drivers kickpanel.

And as how that has been done, i have to repeat myself

It sound like your car would be fairly easy to steal.

Why?

Well not because one door does not trigger the alarm. But because the original installer obviously had no idea what he was doing. The r33 uses one wire to sense both doors opening, so having only one working means that installer -

- did not have much skill

- does not know skylines

- has probably left the alarm box in your kick panel or just under the dash

- was working to a price

I think what you should do is have a look under your dash, drivers kickpanel to see if you can see the alarm, if you can, dont bother taking it back to your original installer, take it to someone who knows what the are doing and get the entire alarm relocated and rewired.

Sure its extra money, but really from what you have said, it would most likely take less than 30 seconds to steal your car at the moment.

If you are looking to get it done fire a PM at CHRIS ROGERS, he is the man with the install contacts.

no it doesn't.

depending on car they are two different leads in two different spots.

32,33,34 &35 are diode isolated from the drivers door. all have two places to get the wire. I do not get it in the usual spot. colours are all similar.

inthe case of a S2 33 and 34 the smart entry system will foul the alarm if tied in at that point.

Edited by Chris Rogers
  • 8 months later...
Hi mate go to the thick wiring loom in the drivers kickpanel (to the right of your left foot) and find a thin red wire, it is one of 2 and it is the thinner one out of the 2, you can tell because the other one is a little thicker in diameter.

I have been fitting car alarms for Security In Motion for the past 5 years and if we don't know nobody does!

Next time just call us.

WOOHOO this is so helpful, hey its to the right of your RIGHT foot, I got confused for a little there!

Its the loom that continues back under the carpet along the right side of the car :)

I'm not sure this is completely the same problem, but I have an alarm installed that triggers on both doors which are on separate circuits, but the interior light no longer turns on when the passenger side door is opened. My car originally had the factory keyless entry. I'm guessing it's probably a bad idea to brigde the two door wires down at the kick panel. Is there possibly any other way I can overcome this problem?

Was thinking maybe I need to link the interior light circuit to the passenger door switch via a diode, but I have no idea which wire the interior light trigger is.

Any help here would be appreciated. I don't really want to take it back to the installer they were quite rough with my interior trim after commenting how 'Nice & clean' my interior was (GT AUTOSOUND, DON'T GO THERE! If you truely value your car).

Edited by JazzaR33
I'm not sure this is completely the same problem, but I have an alarm installed that triggers on both doors which are on separate circuits, but the interior light no longer turns on when the passenger side door is opened. I'm guessing it's probably a bad idea to brigde the two door wires down at the kick panel. Is there possibly any other way I can overcome this problem?

Was thinking maybe I need to link the interior light circuit to the passenger door switch via a diode, but I have no idea which wire the interior light trigger is.

Any help here would be appreciated. I don't really want to take it back to the installer they were quite rough with my interior trim after commenting how 'Nice & clean' my interior was (GT AUTOSOUND, DON'T GO THERE! If you truely value your car).

are you sure the alarm works on bith doors?

bridging the wires will only make the lights on buzzer show on both doors not jst the drivers one.

are you sure the alarm works on bith doors?

bridging the wires will only make the lights on buzzer show on both doors not jst the drivers one.

Yeah pretty sure it works, confusing I know, but that's the way it's working at the moment. Not sure if it had anything to do with the factory central locking system as both the door wires did go to that. It has been removed so I'm thinking that's the reason.

  • 1 month later...

This has probly been solved i havnt read through the thread, but i made this a while ago when i disconected mine, Its a bit dodgey but its easy to do if you can make sense of it :P

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=167222

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...