Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry to hijack ur thread Rosie....

but has anyone had experience with Falken Ziex Tyres? I believe the 326 not the 512 "all season" tyre.

Getting 18 x 9's on my Hr31 coupe and want it to grip.

Going coilovers front and rear and it currently has 200+ atw, shooting for 220-240rwkw soon.

cheers.

Just re-emphasising my earlier point but for street tyres you really can't go past federal. I have tried ALOT of tyres out, and with a T76 on my car I have only just started to wheelspin under 2bar boost and have had the tyres on for almost a year. Mind you I don't go doing fully sick burnouts but not afraid to boost. Only tyres I have tried that have held up to it. Falken are cheap and nasty IMO, very dissapointed with them, pirelli were good, nankang very bad, can't remember any others.

Gidday Rosie, ive put a set of dunlop sp 9000s on my GTR and they dont seem to do anything wrong. Mine are 245/35/18 and not real cheap but you are probably runnning 17s by the look of it so go for a 17 with no less than 40 profile, that should ride a bit better for you. If Steve Bell is doing your engine you must live in Launie. Just remember your first expense is your cheapest expense, do it once do it right. Sounds like you have a boost controller on it so once the engine is a runner get it to Brad at Chris Colgraves at Invermay and he will tune and set the boost for you, say no more that 17pounds on premium will be fine. As far as the clutch goes fit up a standard system to make it user friendly. If you get stuck for engine components give me a yell i might be able to source it for you. Dont be frightened to ask others for advice on prices etc, no need to spend more than you have to. If you want to sell that clutch i might be interested, cheers paul

Even still Rosie if your not comfortable driving with it, and your not going to get seriously into drag racing, I'd sell it and get somthing more user friendly. After a few weeks of driving around with somthing like that, you'll start to not enjoy driving your car, if that happens, then why have the car in the firstplace.

Even if you do wan't to race, Matty Rickards was running hard for 3 or 4 drag meets, all he was using was a Jimm Berry single plate and didn't have any problems.

J

Edited by XRATED

Rosie, i agree with the x-man 100%, although your mechanic has said your twin plate is an excellent clutch, no-one is disputing that. The facts are its a dog of a thing to drive and you obviously cant come to terms with it so i agree with the x dude, a jim berry set up is an excellent cluch, single plate, light pedal yet delivering over 2 tonnes of plate pressure good for more Kw than you will ever have, its a cloned subaru clutch and would be my first choice for a street machine. I have a new nismo twin plate and it like yours is a pig to get going at the lights but i intend to do track work, if i didnt the jim berry would be strait in, food for thought, cheers Smud

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Your other option is to buy a spray can of hi-fill and prime it with some pinholes. See if the primer makes them disappear. If it does, then you can leave it with pinholes of that size and they will go away when the painter takes over.
    • Ah ok. I seem to be mixing it like everyone else does so not sure what's happening. Will experiment with it more.
    • Depends on what you mean by OK. First up, was this done cold or hot? Are they reasonably consistent? Yes, they are reasonably consistent. Could be better. But unless it has had a build at some point, it is a ~30 year old engine and you'd expect some variation. Some of the difference could also be in user technique Is it good compression? Well....not numerically, no. New they were >160 psi. The one at 140 would be fine, in that context. If they were all ~140, you'd be reasonably happy. But the one that is @120 is twice as far down from the original numbers as the one @ 140. But.. (again)... technique can play a part in the absolute magnitude of these numbers, and the quality/state of repair/accuracy of the pressure gauge is not known. In the context of the above, the compression tester that was used last on my car is regularly compared to a known good pressure gauge. Not calibrated, exactly, but compared to a reference instrument that is not used for any other purpose, so cops no abuse. So we can trust the measurements off that tester. But another tester in the same workshop wasn't being compared against the standard and was reading a good 30ish psi lower. When you're reading 100 psu but the engine is really doing 130, you can make bad decisions.
    • More likely from tiny bubbles in the filler/putty. Maybe be less aggressive when mixing it. Perhaps invest in a vacuum chamber to pull the air bubbles out?** **I don't know if this is a thing for body filler. I see hardcore epoxy makers degassing their mixed resin on the regular.
    • IIRC, the speedo on these is fed from the sensor in/on the snout of the diff.
×
×
  • Create New...