Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

its will be interesting to know what types of engine oils you guys sued, trans, diffs. And engine additives as well such as Nulon or Slick 50

Now only exhanging ideas and thoughts now WAR against each toher like in some forums.

I myself is a Mobil man. Used them since i first drove cars. Diss and trans as well. But i have been hearing Castrol are pretty good now but as far a i know Castrol doesnt make its own oil so..

What is the most popular brand in this forum?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117723-engine-oils-and-additives/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Castrol SuperDOT4 brake fluid

Castrol EDGE sport 0W60 engine oil

Castrol Transmax Z transmission fluid

Castrol Anti-Freeze/Anti-Boil Coolant

Castrol power steering fluid

Genuine Nissan oil filters

Wait, actually this may help you out. My shelf here at home

shelf4kn.jpg

That diff oil is left over from my previous car, so not sure its suitability for the Stagea

Castrol SuperDOT4 brake fluid

Castrol EDGE sport 0W60 engine oil

Castrol Transmax Z transmission fluid

Castrol Anti-Freeze/Anti-Boil Coolant

Castrol power steering fluid

Genuine Nissan oil filters

Wait, actually this may help you out. My shelf here at home

shelf4kn.jpg

That diff oil is left over from my previous car, so not sure its suitability for the Stagea

Where is this garage locates at? >_< . HAHAHHA! might drive up to your plca while you are not home.

Its cool though isnt it? I supposed you are a castrol man!! arent you. What makes you chose them?

Two things,

Castrol sponsor a lot of cars in high performance race series and are race proven goods

......and.....

SK suggests all castrol stuff >_<

Put two and two together, add a sale at repco and minus $300 to the wallet....you can have a shelf like that.

Two things,

Castrol sponsor a lot of cars in high performance race series and are race proven goods

......and.....

SK suggests all castrol stuff :D

Put two and two together, add a sale at repco and minus $300 to the wallet....you can have a shelf like that.

so where are you located? >_<

i am a motul man myself as i have been using it in my last 4 road bikes, and am currently using it in my aprilia as well as the stagea.

i am also a big fan of the slick50 range of products, and have also been using them since i was 14 on my first dirtbike.

i recently treated the engine of the stagea when i did a filter service.

we had to drop the idle around about 800rpm once it had "run in" on a short drive(50klms or so).

last week we treated the main gear box but as the local supplier only had one bottle of trans treatment i am yet to treat the transfer case, as soon as it arrives he has set a bottle aside for me and if its anything like the rest of their products it should make the shifts a lot smoother.

i spose ya could say i am a fan of it to the point we have even used it in the chainsaw,mowers and brushcutter!!!

AWESOME STUFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I use Penzoil engine oil and transmission fluid

Lucas diff oil

For the anti-freeze/boil i used to use Redline's WaterWetter which is amazing stuff, i'm using Shellcoolguard at the moment.

Oops...i jsut realised this was the stagea part of the forums....

Edited by george.bryant

I've been recommended ULX-110 products. Not cheap, $70 for 5litres.

Claims 5%+ power and 10%= fuel saving.

In Gogle enter ULX-110 and search. There are dyno graphs for comparisons. It loks pretty impressive. Like to hear your preferences.

Ok soz guys i didnt reply to this treat for a week cos im overseas ATM.

Me personally have used a few engine treatments. Slicl 50s, duralube and Nulon on different cars.

Duralube dunno cos i think they got sued by the Us govt for lying or something. But it works good quiter engine, smooth, dont know about the fuel comsumption drop though.

Slick 50s only used the diesel treatment and it good as well.

Now I have used Nulon the long term engine treatment one. I think i prefer the slick 50 to it. BTW i comparing it in a diesel engines

I have also used toher Nulon products on my landcruiser 100 series and im planing to use it on my stagea when it gets here.

Diff and manual treatment (they are the same). I swear to god after i used it on my front and rear diffs and the tranfercase, the engine treament (longterm) and the auto trans treaments. It cuts the cabin noise by half!! I said to myself thats pretty cool.

Ok soz guys i didnt reply to this treat for a week cos im overseas ATM.

Me personally have used a few engine treatments. Slicl 50s, duralube and Nulon on different cars.

Duralube dunno cos i think they got sued by the Us govt for lying or something. But it works good quiter engine, smooth, dont know about the fuel comsumption drop though.

Slick 50s only used the diesel treatment and it good as well.

Now I have used Nulon the long term engine treatment one. I think i prefer the slick 50 to it. BTW i comparing it in a diesel engines

I have also used toher Nulon products on my landcruiser 100 series and im planing to use it on my stagea when it gets here.

Diff and manual treatment (they are the same). I swear to god after i used it on my front and rear diffs and the tranfercase, the engine treament (longterm) and the auto trans treaments. It cuts the cabin noise by half!! I said to myself thats pretty cool.

Got a lot of Nulon products today. But whats the best oil for engine, diffs, and tranny.?

Got a lot of Nulon products today. But whats the best oil for engine, diffs, and tranny.?

i think its just a matter of which brand that you were sold on on advertising nowadays.

but to my knowledge Mobil was the first company to developed a synthetics oils Guys correct me if im wrong on this. I have always used Mobil for everything even their fuels.

  • 2 months later...

Anyone know how much ATF the auto tranny takes? i'm getting some sluggish changes, and i've topped the fluid up as much as i can. i'm going to drain the system, take the valve set out and give it a good clean, but it's such a pain to check the levels (car on and warm) that i'd rather prefer to just fill it with the amount it needs and leave it.

Also, i can only find one entry for fluid: the dipstick - is there an easier/more accessible place to fill the transmission from?

maybe the box is wearing out, i've done 180,000km already in it. manual is sitting on the ground in the garage but i've got more important things to spend money on at the moment. any help would be appreciated. thanks

Anyone know how much ATF the auto tranny takes? i'm getting some sluggish changes, and i've topped the fluid up as much as i can. i'm going to drain the system, take the valve set out and give it a good clean, but it's such a pain to check the levels (car on and warm) that i'd rather prefer to just fill it with the amount it needs and leave it.

Also, i can only find one entry for fluid: the dipstick - is there an easier/more accessible place to fill the transmission from?

maybe the box is wearing out, i've done 180,000km already in it. manual is sitting on the ground in the garage but i've got more important things to spend money on at the moment. any help would be appreciated. thanks

go and get Nulon auto trans treatment is really good. Used it in my landcruiser 100 series auto trans. Its a totally different beast. transmission wise smooth gear change less noise . try it

I think someone here said it drinks about 10-12L

I THINK he said you leave it running in N and the pump just pumps all the fluid out then you replace it. I drained my sump and got about 2L out but that isnt all of it ive heard.

\yea Alex i think its gotta to be more than 2 ltrs cos the manual has already about 3 ltrs. Auto is usually more.

Terminal you might have to ccheck with Nissan to ask bout the oil cpacity and ask them how normally they drain an auto trans

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
×
×
  • Create New...